^ what goodpsusearch said. Those are good values to use. The Panasonic FJ may actually work due to lack of PI coils and small output inductors. Also make sure to change #14, 15, and 16. Use same or higher voltage and same capacitance values. #13 looks like a filter cap for the auxiliary rail that powers the PWM controller. Not necessary to replace unless it plays part in the 5VSB regulation. On older Deer/L&C units, I know it doesn't, but not sure about this one. Probably doesn't so you can leave it alone.
Originally posted by Behemot
I can see one from here on +3,3 V
You must have the ability to see ghosts too then because I don't see any PI coils either .
This crappy PSU doesn't have any PI coil in the output
I can see one from here on +3,3 V
If you remember that Eurocase of mine, it actually had two coils on +3,3 V. I think that's the reason why this rail stayed in spec almost under all circuimstances. Other rails were so-so, barely in spec even with 50 % higher total capacitance
This crappy PSU doesn't have any PI coil in the output , so I wonder if it could be a good idea replacing all the output caps with higher capacitance ones, say 1500~2200uF replacing the 1000s, and perhaps ~1000uF replacing the 470s. Or something like that.
I have four spare Panasonic FJ 1500uF 6.3V 105C caps scrounged from an old mobo, apparently in good health. What do you think about using them for 1-2 (+5V) and 7-8 (+3.3V)?
Is the bigger one accross first, or second cap? If second, isnt there higher voltage (from first AND second cap), so they maybe placed it there to limit current to +- same value as from first cap? Just a wild guess
As in the pic, R2 is in parallel with left cap, R1 with right cap.
Is the bigger one accross first, or second cap? If second, isnt there higher voltage (from first AND second cap), so they maybe placed it there to limit current to +- same value as from first cap? Just a wild guess
Seems they knew what they were doing after all. While on educational patrol I found this thread, and grew uneasy on the prospect of one of my brand new big Pannys eating excess voltage due to the weird assimetry in the bleed resistors .
Funny, I remember reading that thread but I don't remember those 2 particular posts in it. I didn't expect those bleeder resistors to make that much of a difference. Seems like they do, though. Time to check some of my PSUs that have bulgy primary caps.
Originally posted by TELVM
So I checked on the live with DMM, and found with relief that both big caps read 158V each .
That's good. I'm still puzzled by the mismatched resistors though.
... R1 is 330K (orange/orange/yellow/gold), R2 is 470K (yellow/violet/yellow/gold) ... Either they knew something that we don't ... or they simply screwed up and put a resistor with the wrong Ω .
Seems they knew what they were doing after all. While on educational patrol I found this thread, and grew uneasy on the prospect of one of my brand new big Pannys eating excess voltage due to the weird assimetry in the bleed resistors .
So I checked on the live with DMM, and found with relief that both big caps read 158V each .
The Thing has been working like a charm for two or three dozen hours flight time now.
... If you use a single MOV in a half-bridge PSU, you will not get full protection. The two big caps in a half bridge work as a voltage divider, so if you only clamp the top to the bottom you could still get voltage imbalance ...
And what if instead of two 180V MOVs, one in parallel to each bigcap ...
... I lay just one 360V MOV, in parallel to both bigcaps?:
The cap just breaks down internally -- it isn't a chemical reaction (so doesn't affect the electrolyte), but simple arcing across the dielectric. The dielectric is really thin, and decides the breakdown voltage and working voltage of the capacitor.
If it gets too bad, it creates local hot-spots, which damage the capacitor by decreasing capacitance. But this usually takes a few hundred ms.
If it gets REALLY bad, it creates a short circuit, the cap vents violently from the heat (it's got a few ohms of resistance so the fuse doesn't pop immediately), and then the fuse goes pop.
Well, I've only repaired a few 115/230V jobs, and the primary caps haven't blown on them. Always the fuse. Sienoki has done a lot more... only had one which had more substantial damage.
The caps basically behave like short circuits at those voltages due to dielectric breakdown. The heat from this would quickly damage it but it is so quick it doesn't usually do any harm.
Perhaps it reduces the life of the capacitors but this just moves the problem to the MOVs. So you end up changing more of them.
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