My guess is the transformer might easily become saturated then, unless the other rails are loaded down sufficiently. (Even then, the transformer would saturate at a lower current, so the psu might not be able to do it's rated output without going bang) ...
^ Hum, you may have a point there, the main transformer always looked suspiciously small from the beginning.
After discovering that one of the main switchers was also damaged, I decided to decomission the concoction . Tinkering with it was tons of fun and a learning experience, and most amazingly it lasted for 2~3 years in its frankenstein iteration.
It's caps have been recycled and found a new home onboard an Enermax ENP500AGT that came OEM with an assortment of Jun Fu and Su'scon crap.
It *might* start with no load, but definitely something I would NOT try with a load. Will probably get terrible ripple on the 12V rail... if you can even call it a 12V rail - it might be closer to 6V than 12.
My guess is the transformer might easily become saturated then, unless the other rails are loaded down sufficiently. (Even then, the transformer would saturate at a lower current, so the psu might not be able to do it's rated output without going bang)
(If it would even cause it to saturate at all ... it's just a wild guess! lol XD)
Heh heh I'm thinking about performing a little experiment ... what if I just cut off the shorted leg and put it back as a single-diode 20A rectifier ? Would it start?
It *might* start with no load, but definitely something I would NOT try with a load. Will probably get terrible ripple on the 12V rail... if you can even call it a 12V rail - it might be closer to 6V than 12.
As for the blow rectifier, check the snubber network for the 12V rail. Should be a ceramic cap and a low-resistance resistor (10 Ohms for Deers, IIRC) in series. Sometimes the ceramic caps go shorted on these Deers and cook the resistor. If the resistor goes O/C, you have no snubber network, and the voltage spikes from the transformer could get high enough to take out the rectifiers.
Heh heh I'm thinking about performing a little experiment ... what if I just cut off the shorted leg and put it back as a single-diode 20A rectifier ? Would it start?
My legendary 'TOOQ' frankenPSU concoction suddenly refuses to start. This PSU has not seen much use since it was frankensteined, just some hours a month powering a P4 retrocomp.
+5VSB is alive and well, but when I switch the PSU on the fans don't even blink, and the bulb trick just flashes once briefly.
On visual inspection everything looks OK, but after some meter testing it seems the +12V rectifier is blown:
Legs 1 Leg 2 (center): .001 continuous beep, Ω 1.7
Legs 3 Leg 2 (center): .001 continuous beep, Ω 1.7
This +12V rectifier is a STPS40M60CTN which replaced the original MBR20150CTP (max Vrrm = 60 vs 150):
I have an Allied 2006 psu with the same asymmetry in bleeding resistors!
Must be a design error then! Because I really don't see any reason for the dis-balance in the voltage over the caps. I bet the voltage across the two caps is slightly different too. Oh DEER!
Maybe Deer ran out of 330K resistors half way through assembling it?
It is intentional after all...
I have an Allied 2006 psu with the same asymmetry in bleeding resistors!
R3: 462kohm and R4: 330kohm
And the best part is that it might have impact on the caps. The caps are Koshin 200V 470uF and their capacity is:
481uF (in parallel with 462kohm R3)
465uF (in parallel with 330kohm R4)
I am going to open a new thread for that psu soon.
The stranded 20A Schottky rectifier from the TOOQ has found a new home in the Allied PSU, which came with this anorexic 10A superfast on the +12V rail :
This time the insulating pad was not forgotten and it works, oh Deer!
Leave a comment: