Hello,
I've got 4 350 Watt FSP PSUs (FSP350-PN/B), all of them have visibly blown Teapo caps on the 5vsb. All the other caps look OK. I've repaired this exact same PSU model before, but now that I have the opportunity to repair four more of them, I would like some further advice on what to use for the 5vsb.
Here are some photos from other threads that match the layout of my PSU:
Now those are what I'm assuming are the two 5VSB caps that are part of the pi filter that make up the circuit.
Now let's look at the specs for the Teapos, and the Nichicon HE (UCC KY equivalent) I used to replace them:
Teapo "SC" 10V 1000uF 8x20mm 1080 0.065
Nichicon "HE" 10V 1000uF 8x20mm 1050 0.069
Close enough, I thought at the time, and I still think this would work fine. Fact is, I have sold many of these PSUs with small failure rates. It just so happens to be that these PSUs came from an extraordinarily warm environment, had a constant high load on them (1st gen Phenom X4), and were left on 24x7 in a room with little to no ventilation. A testament to Teapos quality when they are used in PSUs... I'm starting to think that PCBONEZ is right and that Teapo SC is actually a decent series because none of the big caps are bulged whatsoever, though I don't have a meter to actually test them.
Now, I don't see any reason why not to use something like this:
Nichicon "HM" 10V 1000uF 8x20mm 0.018 1870
but I have some questions:
1) Is it excessive heat or excessive ripple which kills these 5vsb caps?
2) I know you've posted this a thousand times over PCBONEZ, regarding how to decipher actual cap life from manufacturers' datasheets, but maybe you can explaint o me in laymens terms if caps with higher ripple suppression actually have a better heat tolerance? Will a higher ripple cap last longer than a lower equivalent in the same heat conditions or does ripple rating apply strictly to ripple alone? In which case, will a higher ripple cap help me here if the cause of 5vsb cap failure is heat in the first place?
3) If the cause is heat, should I use some of those automotive caps (Though I doubt I could get an automotive cap with the same ripple level as an ordinary cap - which leads me to believe that ripple ratings have nothing to do after all with heat tolerance.)
4) Do you think the Nichicon HE I used to replace the SC is OK eventhough it has slightly inferior specifications (I know Nichicon rips its specs from UCC - almost everyone rips their specs from UCC - did Teapo just rip the spec from KY series and embellish it a tiny bit)?
I've got 4 350 Watt FSP PSUs (FSP350-PN/B), all of them have visibly blown Teapo caps on the 5vsb. All the other caps look OK. I've repaired this exact same PSU model before, but now that I have the opportunity to repair four more of them, I would like some further advice on what to use for the 5vsb.
Here are some photos from other threads that match the layout of my PSU:
Now those are what I'm assuming are the two 5VSB caps that are part of the pi filter that make up the circuit.
Now let's look at the specs for the Teapos, and the Nichicon HE (UCC KY equivalent) I used to replace them:
Teapo "SC" 10V 1000uF 8x20mm 1080 0.065
Nichicon "HE" 10V 1000uF 8x20mm 1050 0.069
Close enough, I thought at the time, and I still think this would work fine. Fact is, I have sold many of these PSUs with small failure rates. It just so happens to be that these PSUs came from an extraordinarily warm environment, had a constant high load on them (1st gen Phenom X4), and were left on 24x7 in a room with little to no ventilation. A testament to Teapos quality when they are used in PSUs... I'm starting to think that PCBONEZ is right and that Teapo SC is actually a decent series because none of the big caps are bulged whatsoever, though I don't have a meter to actually test them.
Now, I don't see any reason why not to use something like this:
Nichicon "HM" 10V 1000uF 8x20mm 0.018 1870
but I have some questions:
1) Is it excessive heat or excessive ripple which kills these 5vsb caps?
2) I know you've posted this a thousand times over PCBONEZ, regarding how to decipher actual cap life from manufacturers' datasheets, but maybe you can explaint o me in laymens terms if caps with higher ripple suppression actually have a better heat tolerance? Will a higher ripple cap last longer than a lower equivalent in the same heat conditions or does ripple rating apply strictly to ripple alone? In which case, will a higher ripple cap help me here if the cause of 5vsb cap failure is heat in the first place?
3) If the cause is heat, should I use some of those automotive caps (Though I doubt I could get an automotive cap with the same ripple level as an ordinary cap - which leads me to believe that ripple ratings have nothing to do after all with heat tolerance.)
4) Do you think the Nichicon HE I used to replace the SC is OK eventhough it has slightly inferior specifications (I know Nichicon rips its specs from UCC - almost everyone rips their specs from UCC - did Teapo just rip the spec from KY series and embellish it a tiny bit)?
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