OK I would like to find out if it is possible to replace one X-former as drop-in for another in switching power supply. I wan't to take a BFG 800 watt #E231049 VIKING B-2 (TOP-T614) X-Former and drop it in a CoolMax AP-550 (V-550) #EI-33B X-Former . EI-33B has bad secondary. Thanks for any Help in Advance Scott.
-
-
Re: HI! My first post on the forum "bear" with me please and Thank's.
Highly unlikely that these two are compatible. The coolmax V-550 is not a very high quality unit. The newer LongYi built units have ERL-35 size transformers, so this is a older Sunyo built unit. Better off fixing or using the BFG, which is a Topower built unit. They are generally pretty good after a recap.
-
Re: HI! My first post on the forum "bear" with me please and Thank's.
Post some pics of both supplies. The BFG is likely to be using two transistor forward topology which is completely incompatible with the half bridge the coolmax uses.
EI-33 and "550W" do not go in the same sentence. It'll do 400 in a good day, but that's with a configuration that is never ever used in a cheap power supply. Most of the times they max out at 250.
But what do you mean about "bad secondary" ? If it reads shorted on your multimeter... that's what it should do. You can find EI-33 by the loads in most noname junkers, all are compatible, but the windings are of varying degree of quality.A working TV? How boring!Originally posted by PeteS in CAComment
-
Re: HI! My first post on the forum "bear" with me please and Thank's.
I had 170 volts on primary of the cool max and nothing on output. I do have 5 volts on other rail no 12 v .Replaced caps some resisters and diodes on secondary.This includes the two stps20l45ct and sb1645ct. I thought maybe the bfg x-former could be converted or something. I guess I can wait to get another x-former down the line no rush, have other projects in the works. Thank's Scott. I'll Be Back.Comment
-
Having a quick look at this found a 25uf cap with no cap reading and xformer with open high side winding, theres an obvious brown out spot on the windings and has no continuity.
Should be ok getting a suitable replacement cap but seem to be having difficulty sourcing a xformer.
Also need to identify the component in the cap wiring connector, see last photo, which is connected between the 2 cap lugs.
From what I can make out its 240v pri, 0 - 9 - 0 - 24v sec dual output chassis mount transformer. Only markings on it is:
P-045 PUTRANS.
Any... -
Ok i'm fighting with this board and I don't want to give up because I know its something “simple” and that i'm blinded right now...
- all 3 mosfets were replaced, went from dead to powering up but mosfet heating up quickly up to burning out.
- removed battery, was dead, and unless I am mistaken, no battery attached shouldnt kill a mosfet on the mb.
- no capacitor shorts detected, would have been too easy.
Now the fun part
- if i apply voltage where the battery was, I won't turn on unless I plug the dc power. If I do... -
Good afternoon everyone,
This is my first real post here. I am very new to a lot of this, so bear with me. I recently acquired a Nikon Z8 that had been dropped and will not power up. After removing the back of the camera, I found a large FPC cable that was half out of the connector. Great, I though I'd found the problem and reseated the cable and tested. Still no power. I started digging further and found an inductor that had overheated, bulged, and left a residue on the heatsink. I removed the inductor and retested, thinking maybe I would have some functionality, but still nothing....07-07-2025, 11:56 AM -
Hello!
This is my first post for help, and I am quite newer to board repair, so bear with me.
I have this board here (LA-E671P), with no power, and doesn't charge. No lights come on when plugged in.
After visual inspection of the board, U22 is obviously blown up. This is the for backlight, and there is no shorts present after removing the chip and replacing.
There is 3 USB C ports to power this board, USB 1 gives 20V, while 2 and 3 only give 5V.
My observations using USB 1 at 20V (0.075A draw on Ammeter, slowly drops from 0.136A)... -
First of all, thank you everyone who helps others in here! You guys are treasures! Please bear with me, this may be long. I have tried a LOT.
First, my wife said the TV was turning off and on. When cold it would be fine for several minutes, then it would start resetting.
I opened it up and noted there are two main lines coming out of the supply besides the backlight., The T-Con 12V line and the main 12V line.
TRIED 1 - I scoped power coming from Power Supply while it was all still connected. I noted that just before it reset, the 12V line going to the T-Con was going...
Comment