Got an A2141 MacBook Pro 16" computer turns on however the track pad clicks but the keyboard has no life, NO LIQUID DAMGE whatsoever. Trackpad does click but the OS loads but the trackpad won't move the cursor, the keyboard is unresponsive. I replaced the cable and the trackpad to see if that was the issue but it was not, I went to see if the CAPS LOCK would turn on but it does not. Any indication what this is? I went and tested the lid sensor but nothing else. Battery holds a charge, fans spin normally, and lcd is good. I can use external mouse and keyboard without issue.
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MEOWING IN THE IMPOSSIBLE UNIVERSE! -
Answer selected by Stephen at 05-06-2025, 01:20 PM.
Well T2 chip is the issue. RIP I got the DFU restore error with the U67 chip removed to verify and you can tell it failed. Going into parts I guess. -
Keyboard decoding is performed by:
U6701
U6702
Review they are being powered and mating properly with the connectors / cabling.
Review the SMBUS line voltages for each of these IO expander chips.Comment
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I believe I resolved... before you got back to me...I will test this if not. I was thinking about the T2 chip is the issue.sigpic
MEOWING IN THE IMPOSSIBLE UNIVERSE!Comment
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Ok so yes DFU restore forced it to fail. Meaning I have an SPI issue somewhere. I am going to look around and find. I know these U67 chips need to work to communicate with the T2 which results why it was failing the restore.sigpic
MEOWING IN THE IMPOSSIBLE UNIVERSE!Comment
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Well T2 chip is the issue. RIP I got the DFU restore error with the U67 chip removed to verify and you can tell it failed. Going into parts I guess.sigpic
MEOWING IN THE IMPOSSIBLE UNIVERSE!Comment
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Hi everyone,
I'm working on a MacBook Air 2020 (A2337, board 820-02016) and running into a strange USB-C issue. I've gone through quite a bit of testing and part replacement, but I'm stuck — hoping someone here can shed some light.
🛠 Original Issue
The machine initially wouldn't negotiate 20V over USB-C — stuck at 5V.
Diagnosis showed PP1V5_UPC0_LDO_CORE shorted to ground.
I replaced U3100 (UF400) using a donor board (A2179), and the machine powers on fine now.
⚠️ New Problem: One USB-C Port Only Works in One Orientation... -
Dell laptop (E7440, uses the notorious CD3301B power controller + MEC5075 EC + BQ24715 charger IC)
Symptoms:- Laptop works normally on a pre-charged battery.
- Battery does not charge when adapter is connected.
- Without battery:
- Laptop powers on from DC adapter, passes CPU/RAM init checks, then cuts DC power abruptly.(seems to shutdown one of the mosfets in the charger path). Then the loop continues indefinitely
- Speakers “pop” when power cut occurs indicating harsh sutdown.
- If RAM is removed, the system shows RAM missing blink error code indefinitely without cutting DC power
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This one's a weird one, and still unsolved despite it having gone back to Dell once.
Specs
i7-8750H, GTX 1060 Max Q, 500GB SSD & Seagate 7mm 1TB HDD. 17.3 IPS screen. This has the fingerprint reader in the power button.
Backstory
I bought this from eBay, from a wallpapering shop. £650 in 2020 which was a good price considering it's a gaming laptop. Physically it's in perfect shape, apart from the hinge mounts on the palmrest failing in the time I've had it (I have a new palmrest for it). The usual thin plastic crap modern build quality!...10-23-2023, 04:09 PM -
Just like the title states. I have been confused at this point. Computer won't turn on when lid angle sensor is plugged in, when unplugged it turns on immediately, however I have tried 4 different lid angle sensors all OEM and calibrated without issue. I even pulled one from a donor computer and still nothing. I know the M1 Pro sensors are married to the board however I do know the 2019 intel are not as long as they came from a donor LCD etc. What I do not get is why is the lid angle sensor forcing the computer to not turn on, another issue I see when the lid angle sensor is disconnected...
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Hello mates,
I bought this subwoofer a few days ago used and blind and it works erratically, as far as I could see, it has been tampered with, the speaker is not the original one and of 8 Ohm when it should be of 4, and there are some welds like reworked by the boards.
It doesn't have much power (expected more from it) and it distorts if you increase the volume over the middle, maybe it's because of the high impedance of the speaker. The problem is that it has sound when it wants, the led panels all work correctly, you can hear the power relay on power on, but right now...
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