MacBook Air A2681 battery problem after Screen Replacement

[ugamazing]

Interesting. Which brand of LCDs are you using that are better? We have used Seven Puppy at least 2 times and found the display assemblies to be excellent. Better than XJS whom we used to use. Had an issue with power cycling with a XJS display assembly this past summer. The display connector was fine but every time we would mate the SMBUS related connector, power cycling would occur. Their Shenzhen store suggested to return the display assembly back at our own expense. Demanded we keep the shipping at the lowest so they can reimburse the shipping fee. Used the cheapest method to ship at $30 back to them without tracking. Months later, they acknowledged the assembly was received and can replace it. We declined because our Seven Puppy unit worked in seconds and the customer was long gone. Now they have issued a refund which we have yet to receive for a few dollars short of the price on Aliexpress. No compensation for the months of waiting; no compensation for their poor QC which we read on other forums has to do with the T-con board programming fault; and not for the full purchase price and certainly nothing for shipping the factory defective LCD assembly back to their side. Never again for us with XJS whom we had used for years.

Not yet convinced there is a fault with either vendor for this case. The schematics clearly indicate the logic of the metal cowling that must be shorted to allow for the proper operation of the BMU.

Either this cowling needs to be mated properly OR the referenced (post #25) resistor pads needs to be shorted to bypass the same. Waiting on feedback of these suggestions. We will do the same review once the replacement LCD display assembly arrives.

We ONLY source genuine clean-pull LCDs for all models. We try to pull them ourselves when possible, just to be extra-confident.

Also, to add some information to this thread: We have replaced around 40 A2681 LCDs (cracked, damaged, failed, liquid, whatever), and we have had precisely ZERO issues with battery charging afterwards. Every replacement part was a genuine-Apple LCD, in every case.

[mon2]

Ok. Tested with and without this metal plate. The laptop boots in both cases using the battery only. Heard the boot chime in both cases.

Updated feedback:

Master Liu (trying to get him to join this forum) - stated that he replaces only the LCD for this model. The camera remains the same so Truetone is not lost.

Seven Puppy - has sold many of this display assembly - no issues for the volumes of sales.

[mon2]

To all readers - after replacing the display and facing this charging quirk - does the laptop boot using the battery ONLY? If no, then highly recommend to short the resistor from my earlier post as this is the common link to the battery charger to/from the battery = VBAT. According to the schematics, if this resistor is shorted, then VBAT line will enable. Welcome to hear feedback after testing. For us, we are out till this display assembly is more mature. Requested for the client to take it to Apple for service.

[mferna14]

We ONLY source genuine clean-pull LCDs for all models. We try to pull them ourselves when possible, just to be extra-confident.

Also, to add some information to this thread: We have replaced around 40 A2681 LCDs (cracked, damaged, failed, liquid, whatever), and we have had precisely ZERO issues with battery charging afterwards. Every replacement part was a genuine-Apple LCD, in every case.

Dear Buddies., you have said that you are using ORIGINAL Apple sold LCD screen. From where did you purchase these screens?
XJS (John) & Seven Puppy (Julia) if they say that they do not know about this issue,, then they are play dumb. I talked to told of them & I usually purchase LCDs from them.
Now the last option is that when I get the Laptop back from the client, as he told me to have a second look at it, maybe the connection might be loose. (but I know they are not loose at all, this is just keep him satisfied). Now post #43 by mon2 will be the last option for us. I will surely try this & eager to get a A2681 Laptop back ASAP. Hopefully this resistor might do the magic....Till then STOP purchased the A2681 LCDs from Seven Puppy or XJS...

[mon2]

You can buy the original screens from locked or defective A2681 units on eBay. Then carefully carve off the front glass and replace the original. No thanks. Too risky for the ROI. You need ultra thin wheel cutting tools (Master Liu). Check his YT video on LCD screen replacement only.

[PITERPENY]

You can buy the original screens from locked or defective A2681 units on eBay. Then carefully carve off the front glass and replace the original. No thanks. Too risky for the ROI. You need ultra thin wheel cutting tools (Master Liu). Check his YT video on LCD screen replacement only.

the first film from any display is ideal for separating the lcd from the case! I constantly change the films poured inside. it's not that difficult. if anyone is interested, here's a link to how I disassemble displays)


https://youtube.com/live/ZjZNqDWHkSY

[mferna14]

Dear @PITERPENY , I have no idea what is this video related to in the forum thread. I do not think that in this thread anyone has any problem replacing the LCD screens. Right now we have problem with the battery charging after LCD Screen of A2681. If you have any solution to this issue, please inform us if you have any update.

[PITERPENY]

as I see it, the problem is acquired. if you put the old display back, the macbook starts charging and everything works fine? if the problem is now constant with the new and old display, check with another battery, perhaps the cable was damaged when the battery was disconnected.

[mnatale]

Hello,

Does anyone managed a solution to this? I have the exact same issue here.

[mon2]

Which brand of LCD display assembly did you purchase?

Can you confirm if the logic board is able to power up with only the battery (no power adapter)?

[mnatale]

I bought from Shenzhen Cheni Electrinic Technology Co.

The board wont power UP with only The battery. The macbook powers UP when i connect The charge, like The macbook hás no battery.

Into The system, shows battery health, but stuck in 1% and no charge.

[mon2]

Ok. Thanks for your feedback. Only if you feel comfortable, proceed with the following suggestion:

1) Disconnect the battery.

2) Remove the logic board - review a few of the many YT videos on this model and follow one of them.

3) With this feedback, please solder short the smd 0201 resistor pads (R15B1) I mentioned in post #25. I believe I have posted the BV location for this part on the logic board.

R15B1 is an open pair of SMD pads which will be quite small since they are for 0201 SMD parts (iphone style). Use a blob of solder and short these 2 pads then test again.

Value your feedback. I need to run around for a few errands but will check back on your status later. In theory, this shorting of the pads should fix this 'cut-off' battery circuit so that it works once again.

[mnatale]

I Will try. Thanks.

For avoiding translations issues, when you say short, i should tie the contacts togheter. Thats it?

[mon2]

Correct. You are creating a direct short across these pads = 0 ohm resistor. We WANT to pull this signal line to a logic LOW. When you do this, the PVBAT rail will once again enable. We believe that this signal is NOT low and the battery is disconnected.

The SMBUS interface is separate from this signal and is able to share the details of the battery - charge value; serial number, etc. That part is OK but the actual rail used to power the logic board and/or charge the battery is disconnected. This SMD pair of pads should enable the circuit again.

Looking forward to your updates. Take your time in the board removal and as noted, a few YT videos on this topic. Crossing our fingers on your positive status.

[mnatale]

Nothing happened, i shorted it like the atached picture.

The sinal is low at both points.

[mon2]

Remove all power. Locate R51B0. Meter in resistance mode. Touch one meter probe at this solder blob. Other meter probe @ R51B0, pin #2. Resistance should be ~0 ohms.

Next, one meter probe at this solder blob. Other meter probe to ground.

What is the resistance? It should be ~0 ohms. Need to be sure the solder blob is good and properly shorting the 2 smd pads. Be sure to use flux. Use a fine tipped soldering iron and with low heat so the pads are not damaged. If required, work with a local friend cell phone repair shop who should be comfortable with these tiny parts.

This is an experiment but according to the documentation in the schematics, the process of shorting the R51B1 to ground will enable the VBAT line for the battery.

With the above setup, what is the voltage to ground of PPVBAT_AON_CONN?

[mnatale]

I Will go tô a friend that works with iPhones in The next days and Will post here The results. Thank you very much! Incredible support.

[mferna14]

I Will go tô a friend that works with iPhones in The next days and Will post here The results. Thank you very much! Incredible support.

Dear., please do your research & let us all know the result if you suceed. Did create a ZERO ohms short on that resistor or you can even check with the meter whether the resistor is blow or whatever?? Thanks

[Libera y repara]

Good morning, I have not been able to carry out the tests because I delivered the equipment to a client who needs it to work, until I have more information and can provide a solution to the problem, I am going to tell you to perform a factory reset and tell me if this solves the problem. I keep you informed

[mnatale]

Libera y repara it was my first test. Did it by restoring via Mac Recovery and in DFU mode using other mac to restore, both of them with no positive results.