Rog ally stop charging HELP

[Raziel19935]

Hello guys, I have a huge problem, I put a generic USB C DOCK on my rog ally, it gave an image and everything was fine, when I decided to put the charger on it, I heard hardware installation and it disconnected, then the DOCK stopped working and the console stopped receiving charge, I tried the charger and it works correctly, I decided to turn off the console to check the board and I didn't see anything burned, they tell me it could be the iTE chip, you may have to replace and reprogram it, what I do know is that it only has a 5v input via USB C, it does not modulate at 20The rog ally no longer turns on so it needs to detect the charger to start, can you help me? Because I really can't find any schematics or information related to the board.Thanks in advance

[Raziel19935]

Fixed bypassing over voltage protection

[lucasR3]

Hello, good afternoon, I wanted to know about that jumper you made on the Rog Ally, did it really work? The device started charging again

I have one that apparently has the same problem, nothing turns on after the battery is discharged

[mon2]

Generally speaking, not a good idea to bypass if it can be avoided. What are the details of your logic board? Any schematics available? Powered by USB-C or a coax / barrel jack?

[lucasR3]

Generally speaking, not a good idea to bypass if it can be avoided. What are the details of your logic board? Any schematics available? Powered by USB-C or a coax / barrel jack?

So I have the same problem as him, my device is not charging...

[mon2]

Disconnect all power. No battery. Meter in resistance mode. Measure the resistance to ground of each contact on the battery connector on the logic board. Place one meter probe to ground (either color is ok); other probe to one of the gold tabs used by the battery.

Post each measurement in ohms. We are checking if there is a short on the communication lines used to communicate with the battery pack.

[lucasR3]

Disconnect all power. No battery. Meter in resistance mode. Measure the resistance to ground of each contact on the battery connector on the logic board. Place one meter probe to ground (either color is ok); other probe to one of the gold tabs used by the battery.

Post each measurement in ohms. We are checking if there is a short on the communication lines used to communicate with the battery pack.

Good idea, I'll probably do that on Tuesday, when the console arrives again...
and I ended up buying 2 chips on aliexpress,
I bought the ITE 8856FN and the ISL9241H, if I need to change it I'll try my luck to recognize it on the device

[mon2]

Review all mosfets linked to the charger IC. Asus products are mostly in the witness protection program so you will be hard pressed to find a schematic. Regardless, they copy the reference designs supplied to them by the silicon vendors so Intersil / Renesas other schematics should help (if the full datasheet for the charger IC is unavailable).

Remove all power. Meter in resistance mode. Measure each mosfet's resistance to check if it is defective / shorted:

source / drain
source / gate
gate / drain

Each mosfet should be hundreds of k ohms or higher else is a suspect. Then flux and remove that mosfet to inspect again. Even 100k-200k ohms is too low for a good mosfet.

[lucasR3]

Review all mosfets linked to the charger IC. Asus products are mostly in the witness protection program so you will be hard pressed to find a schematic. Regardless, they copy the reference designs supplied to them by the silicon vendors so Intersil / Renesas other schematics should help (if the full datasheet for the charger IC is unavailable).

Remove all power. Meter in resistance mode. Measure each mosfet's resistance to check if it is defective / shorted:

source / drain
source / gate
gate / drain

Each mosfet should be hundreds of k ohms or higher else is a suspect. Then flux and remove that mosfet to inspect again. Even 100k-200k ohms is too low for a good mosfet.

I just measured the voltages, etc.
The board has a short circuit on the VBUS line.
I haven't identified it yet, as the component isn't heating up.

[mon2]

VBUS is USB related. Review the local port USB load switches and also their bulk capacitors which are camped onto the VBUS pin (~100 uF). Start with removing the load switch off the board. Then measure again. If the short is still present, the fault is most likely the bulk cap on the VBUS pin.

[lucasR3]

VBUS is USB related. Review the local port USB load switches and also their bulk capacitors which are camped onto the VBUS pin (~100 uF). Start with removing the load switch off the board. Then measure again. If the short is still present, the fault is most likely the bulk cap on the VBUS pin.

I tested the capacitors, they are all shorted in the line.... maybe it is the IC itself that is shorted?

[mon2]

Correct. It may very well can be the USB load switch. Flux and remove it to test. On good motherboards, each USB port has a local USB load switch which acts like a current limit switch. Often these parts die under high current transients. They are low cost to replace.

[lucasR3]

Correct. It may very well can be the USB load switch. Flux and remove it to test. On good motherboards, each USB port has a local USB load switch which acts like a current limit switch. Often these parts die under high current transients. They are low cost to replace.

The worst thing is that these ICS seem to be with custom encodings, just taking them from another rog ally

[mon2]

Post pics of the USB area so we can review which USB load switches are onboard. There are many replacement parts for these common devices. Digikey / Mouser / Arrow should offer them and of course Aliexpress.

What needs to be determined if replacing the load switch is:

a) current rating of the switch
b) polarity of the enable pin (ACTIVE HIGH or ACTIVE LOW)
c) pinout of the device

The above are the key points.

[VeVaz]

Hi, made the bypass too to test out, and the orange light shows up but after some seconds it starts to blink and don't stop to blink

[VeVaz]

I was looking the battery, it's giving 0v on positive to negative, measured the cells, they have all 3.7v all together have 14.5v but 0v on positive and negative idk of the BMS is on protection mode or something like that

[mon2]

Be sure the battery is the proper match with the proper pinout. But yes, could be for safety that the BMS has disabled the internal main mosfet. To confirm, test with another known good battery or at your risk, review the (undocumented) BMS board to locate the mosfet. It is very possible that the logic board is latched into a state where the working mosfet on the BMS is being forced to the OFF state. Again for your safety as the batteries are a fire hazard. Do not recommend to mess with this stage of the designs. Like the local fire marshall stated, if an EV car is burning, they pull it to the street and allow it to burn out.

[VeVaz]

I tried injecting the positive from the first cell on the positive of the board and the negative from the last cell on the negative of the board, and connected to the rog and see if it can charge, but the orange led still starts to blink and that's it.
the charger just give 14.90v to the rog, tried 2 different chargers and it's the same, they just do the handshake to 15v instead of the 20v.
already look the .cat with Boardviewer, idk if its a problem with the ITE, i will buy a new battery and try if shows the same thing i don't really know what to do.

[VeVaz]

I was thinking maybe even injecting the volts from the cells it can still don't turn on because the BMS don't comunicate with the EC

[mon2]

Post a pic of the battery markings. The charge voltage should be slightly higher than the battery voltage. Do not mess with cells unless you have proper experience. It is very risky. The logic board is designed to charge the pack based on the original supplied battery pack voltage.