Does anyone have a schematic for this device? The red lght stays on no matter what until battery dies. Thank you
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Re: Flir One Gen 3 USB C
So the fault is that it is not charging ?
Is it under warranty ?
Are you ok to open the unit ? Appears to be a USB C connector which are common and the blurb mentions 5V @ 1A to charge the widget.
Perhaps the parts are common and off-the-shelf so you may be able to identify the charger parts from their markings and study the design. -
Re: Flir One Gen 3 USB C
I already have the unit open. It's supposed to show red light for a few seconds, then go flashing green. then if you hold button it should go off. The red light comes on a never goes off. The power button doesn't make any difference. I have charged it up so the battery should be full. Thank you for reply
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Re: Flir One Gen 3 USB C
Review this thread:
https://flir.custhelp.com/app/answer...olid-red-light
We own some Teledyne Lecroy tools in the lab and found them to be outstanding on support. If you still have an issue, recommend that you contact their technical support for assistance. Do update this thread with your progress.Comment
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Re: Flir One Gen 3 USB C
I contacted Flir with not much guidance. I will try that article and post result. Haven't had time to work on this item for a bit. Thank youComment
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Re: Flir One Gen 3 USB C
I only have schematic of flir for iphone USB ic only not whole flir schematics if that's any helpComment
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Hi all,
i got a Flir scout where a connector was ripped off and i will have to make new pads. One big problem i have right now is that 2 small smd components are missing near the pads and i was only able to find a comparable pic of this part of the board.
So right now i need to know what i need exactly for a replacement and the values. I contacted Flir by mail but they don't give out schematics and told me that i can use the guarantee if i have it (funny guys).
Anybody has an idea what i can do?09-09-2024, 03:11 AM -
Hi,
solder joints on heat sinks - how much do they matter? Could poor joints on heat sink cause issues if they are not properly joining to hot ground?
I'm looking at power source module of Panasonic plasma TV and I see many of these having visually poor quality, but could they matter? In general I would guess no, but I saw a video where someone was stressing out the importance of tightening the screws when fastening the power source board specifically for the ground to be connected properly.
Thanks -
Hi,
Found an Funai 32FL553P/10 TV on sale for cheap listed as broken, so I decided to give a shot at reparing this.
State I got it in:
Squealing from the PSU
After logo I get a blank screen
After 10 seconds of having a blank display w/ backlight the TV dies
Give it 7-10ish seconds again and it starts to bootloop.
What I did so far:
Replaced all the caps on the PSU (apart from primaries, they were fine and none at hand)
Checked all voltage rails:
5VSB - 4.8V
AMP+13V - 14.4V
13V - 12.98V (in manual 12V)... -
I think it would be dumb to toss a "modern" motherboard just because a resistor got scraped off, so here I am. I am hoping to find the right schematic so I can see if the motherboard can live without 1 of 3 60B SMDs in series likely scratched off by the backplate of a PCI-E card install or removal. It could be related to a functionality that is not needed or critical, or it could fry anything I plug into it and power on. If I could find a replacement, I could likely pop in on the board, but if I don't need to, then screw it, I don't mind leaving something dark that doesn't matter....07-06-2025, 02:00 PM -
I want to buy one of those SMD component books so I don't have to spend as much time searching my scrap boards for what I need, specifically ceramic caps and resistors as they seem to be what I spend most of my time replacing. But the only ones I can find are no name brands. Does manufacturer matter as much for SMD parts as it does with electrolytics or is the generic stuff likely to be fine?
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