I did the same with the relay and got these results if it means anything.
Leg 2-3 = 1.435
Leg 2-4 = 1.710
Leg 2-5 = 1.790
Leg 3-2 = 1.419
Leg 3-4 = .961
Leg 3-5 = 1.239
Leg 4-2 and 4-3 = nothing
Leg 4-5 = .565
Leg 5-2 and 5-3 = nothing
Leg 5-4 = .509
Ok when you say nothing do you mean the same as touching the probes together 0.00 or perhaps a single 0 on the left of the meter screen? ( or OL -something meaning off scale or overscale)
I think these are the points to check the relay - you apply the voltage
to points R1 and R2 and take an ohms reading on AC1 to AC2 - should go from
open offscale or OL to 0.00 or close to
Perhaps wait for budm to comment as he did mention a zener in parallel and I dont know if he meant care as the reading wouldnt work or CARE as in damaging the diode
I have a cheaper DMM it doesn't give you OL. In diode mode it starts at 1. and if no reading it stays that way, if I get a reading the .1 disappears and get a reading.
Been searching for a cheap used FLuke but can't find one.
AC1 to DC+ I get .527, reversed nothing, AC2 to DC- is .522, reversed is nothing. AC1 to AC2 nothing either way. This was done on diode setting. When set to 2000 ohms there was no reading at all.
No you cant apply mains power without the heatsinks and no you cant test the big caps without powering up
In pictures on the net of these boards they have the heatsink part attached
can you do that or is yours attached to the frame? or wont the cables reach?
As mentioned before an alternative would be to solder wires to the caps.
I can't hook up my board to the heat sink without attaching it to the mounting frame. Once it is attached to the mounting frame there is no access to the bottom of the board. I guess I could try to solder some wire to the bottom of the caps and hook it back up. Does it matter the size of wire?
No click to relay but I was only using an 18v battery so may not be enough power.
Heat is only needed when the motor is running and since the motor is not working you do not have to worry about heating up the bridge rectifier or the power MOSFET.
We need to know if the main caps on the motor driver board has Voltage on the main cap or not. The relay looks to be for soft-start circuit.
The MOSFET is connected in series with the motor and it is driven by PWM signal to the Gate.
I just soldered wires to the large caps. When I turn the power on do I test them individually or hook both + to + and - to - ?. Everything is hooked back and put together like it is supposed to be.
166VDC is fine and that is what I expected. I am still wondering about the solder joints on those two Zener diodes that the pads look to be damaged and you were getting 6.6V and then 15V, there may be bad joints on the board.
Just tested again. 15.2 and 24.7 on the diodes and relay clicking now, however I am only getting .87VDC on the red/black wires and 0 black/white wires on the speed control. Should be 5v red/black and 0-5 on black/white wires.
But what about the -49 on the other filter. Actually I may have marked wire wrong, switched probes and get 49.
Comment