MS-6340 and 1000uF Caps

[NewLifeTrio]

Hi,

After about a year of wrestling with an unstable MS-6340 board in my Packard Bell PC, I've found this site, which in turn prompted me to check the capacitors, and as you can probably guess... some have leaked

This computer has become "non-essential" to me, but I'd like to have it up and running none the less as I'm sure I could find a use for it

Most of the capacitors looked in good shape apart from a couple of Tayehs (1000uF 6.3v), so I'm going to replace all 6 identical caps on the board.

I checked out the list of sellers in the UK and it looks like Farnell have quite a good selection , but which do you folks recommend I go for? I can't seem to find any ESR ratings on their site, and I don't understand the impact of the Ripple AC rating, etc. (I'm a noob!)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

NLT

[willawake]

Re: MS-6340 and 1000uF Caps

Farnell have the Rubycon ZL and Panasonic FC.

for instance this is a ZL 6.3ZL1000M10X12.5
and this is an FC EEUFC0J102.

either are excellent for your needs and will not fail early. RS have also Panasonic FC, you can compare prices/shipping etc to see what works best for you. Farnell sells caps in single packages, from RS you have to buy 5 of each type.

FC Series 105°C:
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/initSess...63994&store=uk

[willawake]

Re: MS-6340 and 1000uF Caps

tell us about the other caps on the board. it is correct to replace the Tayeh but recommended to replace all known badcap brands in order to finish the job properly. even if they look good they may be performing out of specs or may cause problems for you later.

[NewLifeTrio]

Re: MS-6340 and 1000uF Caps

tell us about the other caps on the board. it is correct to replace the Tayeh but recommended to replace all known badcap brands in order to finish the job properly. even if they look good they may be performing out of specs or may cause problems for you later.

Thanks for the advice willawake. Very useful. It's tempting to replace all the caps. I'm just worried about damaging the motherboard... Less caps to replace = fewer chances to mess things up! If it's is advisable, I'll probably do it though.

Here's a run down of all the caps on the board

6 x 1000uF 6.3v (Tayeh) (The aforemention leaky caps)
4 x 4700uF 6.3v (Brand isn't clear)
2 x 4700uF 6.3v (nichicon - info printed on top)
1 x 2700uF 6.3v (Tayeh)
1 x 300uF 6.3v (Tayeh)
1 x 100uF 10v (Tayeh)

I've not included the surface mount caps in the above list, but I can do if it'll help. Do surface mount caps often leak or have reliability problems?

Thanks again,

NLT.

[NewLifeTrio]

Re: MS-6340 and 1000uF Caps

Actually, just found out that 4 x 4700uF 6.3v where the brand isn't clear are actually Panasonic (They've got the [M] marking and the T vent). You learn something new everyday!

So here's a corrected run down of the caps on the board.

6 x 1000uF 6.3v (Tayeh) (The aforemention leaky caps)
4 x 4700uF 6.3v (Panasonic)
2 x 4700uF 6.3v (nichicon - info printed on top)
1 x 2700uF 6.3v (Tayeh)
1 x 300uF 6.3v (Tayeh)
1 x 100uF 10v (Tayeh)

Thanks,

NLT

[PeteS in CA]

Re: MS-6340 and 1000uF Caps

Panasonic is Matsushita, hence the "M". OTOH, on Nichicon, when you see "HN(M)", the "(M)" means that the tolerance is 20% (which is pretty much standard for lytics).

[willawake]

Re: MS-6340 and 1000uF Caps

i would replace these. it is a small amount of caps.

6 x 1000uF 6.3v (Tayeh) (The aforemention leaky caps)
1 x 2700uF 6.3v (Tayeh)

check the nichicon are not HN(M) or HM(N) series though.

[NewLifeTrio]

Re: MS-6340 and 1000uF Caps

i would replace these. it is a small amount of caps.

6 x 1000uF 6.3v (Tayeh) (The aforemention leaky caps)
1 x 2700uF 6.3v (Tayeh)

check the nichicon are not HN(M) or HM(N) series though.

Many thanks for all the help. I've placed an order for the above components from RS (both Panasonic FC series) as Farnell had a £20 minimum order policy.

The nichicon are not of the HN(M) or HM(N) series (thankfully).

I'll let the forum know how I get on!

Cheers,

NLT

[willawake]

Re: MS-6340 and 1000uF Caps

some important tips. please read the faq but i want to emphasise these

- before you start removing the caps add a dab of solder to their pads on the rear of the board. this greatly eases the removal process.

- do not pull the caps out when they are not heated enough. you may find one lead is coming out easy, the other is not. dont pull hard one way, wiggle it back and forth a little bit until it is coming loose.

- if you have great problems to remove any of the leads then your iron is probably not hot enough. fast in and out at high temp is what is recommended, (long heating until your hand is tired = damaged traces)

- recommended to practice first on a trash board anyway, this confirms your iron is working good and will give you confidence in your technique

- when you insert the new caps, the leads should go easy into the holes. if not then you must clean the holes better. do not force the caps into the holes.

- dont worry about the soldering of the new caps. heat up both the lead and the solder pad and close the hole, difficult to do a bad job. check for shorts though between your soldering and adjacent pads when you are done.

- most of all dont worry and dont rush. if you are getting irritated and forcing things, being sloppy - that is when you trash the board. otherwise there is no reason why you cant succeed.

[MD Willington]

Re: MS-6340 and 1000uF Caps

FYI the MS-6340 is also known as MSI K7TM Pro...so if you have any other problems you can look up that mainboard in other MSI specific forums..

Although I'm sure most of us could figure out any other problems as well!

MD