I have a EP-8RDA+ v.1.0 with leaky caps. I contacted EPoX about the problem and they offered to RMA my board for 17$ US. The only problem is that I live in Canada and shipping the motherboard across the boarder via FedEx or UPS (like they told me to do) would cost more than the RMA itself. I'm fairly proficient with a soldering iron and I feel confident replacing the caps myself, its just the hassle of finding the correct replacement capacitors and then actually taking apart my comp and doing the repair. Do you guys think its worth the 35$ US (45$ ish CDN) to RMA the board or should I just go for it and recap it myself? I'm thinkin i'll repair it myself, cause I can find a 8RDA+ used without leaky caps for less than 45$. The only reason I ask is cause I probably am the laziest mofo on the planet. Any input? also, what is a good replacement cap for this board? where can I get them? Thanks for any help and sorry if there is a different thread which asks similar questions (as i said i am the laziest person on earth, bahh read, why read? :P).
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Re: EPoX EP-8RDA+ 17$ RMA worth it?
RMA it is you want it returned with the caps replaced with the same shoddy caps it has now. Recap it yourself if you want it rebuilt with good caps, and never have to worry about it again. The cost either way will end up being close to eachother.<--- Badcaps.net Founder
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Re: EPoX EP-8RDA+ 17$ RMA worth it?
thanks for the quick response! any cap brand recommendations? i've heard that Sanyo makes good caps, as with panasonic. looking in the digi-key catalogue all brands seem to be relatively similar in price (within a few cents).Comment
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Hi,
Recently I got an Epox EP-85 MVP3C-M board from scrap. After fixing the broken caps I powered it on without CPU and the jumpers set to 60Mhz FSB and 2x multiplier.
Sadly, Vcc3 was stuck at 3.54v regardless of jumpers. Vcc2 (Vi/o I think) was also the same voltage.
So, I've returned to the original configuration I got the board in - 100Mhz FSB and 4x multiplier. Voltages haven't changed at all.
What I've tried so far:
replace the original N-MOSFETs with beefier 60V ones for testing
Resolder the resistors near the Vcore Jumper block
Short Vcore...05-25-2025, 01:46 AM -
Hi
I have a Samsung QE55Q65B with a seemingly common problem: it turn off and back on after a few seconds, (sometimes more, and in rare instances works for hours). D001 on the left side of the panel is very hot. I may be able to remove it with a very fine iron, but i don't have the equipment to re-solder such small parts.
Is there a risk to run the tv without this diodes diodes? And is it worth to pay someone else to replace it. I read many people who ended up with bad lines after trying to remove/replace them, , or the panel failing in another way, so i want to weight... -
I will be pulling my crown vic ECU and recapping it. 3 in total, 47uf 16v x2 and a 10uf 63v
I hope they havent puked yet. I was thinking of replacing them with Aluminum - Polymer thru hole caps. probably 47uf 25v and 10uf 80v
They arent cheap. Anyone have any experience with them? Am I wasing my money on premium caps?
Nichicon PLV series
thanks -
Hi:
I am trying to repair this ATX SMPS and I realised once I've replaced the 5V IC that also the coil is gone.
Where (and how) do you look for these parts? same piece or similar that I could try to use it? is it worth it? :-)
Regards,
Francesc.... -
Hi,
Is there anybody here who could tell me what are the two caps marked bellow? Or atleast send me a picture of those two caps from their board. Size wise I think those will be 2200uF10v, the same as in the CPU VRM, but not sure....
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