Chaintech Volari V3 128MB AGP

[Newbie2]

Hi,

I got this old Chaintech Volari V3 128MB AGP video card, and it has 6 TEAPO 1200uf 6.3V SC caps on it. None of them are bad yet, but this is a preemptive recapping that Topcat recommends. The problem is, that when I try to desolder the old cap out with my soldering iron, the positive lead comes out fine, but the negative is stuck in there that I couldn't get it out. I tried wiggling the cap out of the negative hole with the soldering iron touching the lead's little solder area, but the lead from the cap broke, leaving a piece of its lead stuck in the video card, since the lead was still in there good despite my efforts. I tried taking it out with no success.

My soldering iron is a Weller 60W ESD safe iron, I think it does have enough heat for most things.

It's like if Chaintech is against recapping, by not letting the old caps come off easily.

Does anybody have any suggestions on how I can take this stubborn lead out of this video card?

[linuxguru]

Re: Chaintech Volari V3 128MB AGP

If it's RoHS-compliant lead-free solder on the card, tough luck. You'll need a hotter iron.

If it's traditional tin/lead solder, try adding a drop of 63:37 solder to the pad, reheating the pad and extracting the lead with tweezers/pliers.

[Newbie2]

Re: Chaintech Volari V3 128MB AGP

If it's RoHS-compliant lead-free solder on the card, tough luck. You'll need a hotter iron.

If it's traditional tin/lead solder, try adding a drop of 63:37 solder to the pad, reheating the pad and extracting the lead with tweezers/pliers.

Chaintech never stated that the card was RoHS-compliant. I only got common 60/40 solder.

I got one cap in last night with 2 hours of time (don't know how that happened), but this one is not like the other one.

The caps I'm going to use to replace those TEAPO 1200uf 6.3V SC series caps are Nichicon 1000uf 6.3V HE series caps.

Those Nichicon caps are from a previous recap project on an old QDI Advance 3 motherboard in 2004. I had to buy tons of caps (I could only buy in bulk), and this is a way of using up some.

[linuxguru]

Re: Chaintech Volari V3 128MB AGP

The TEAPOs aren't that bad - I'd suggest stopping after replacing this 2nd cap and seeing if it works stably. If it's OK, don't risk ruining the card by replacing all the caps with great difficulty. Those Nichicon HEs are otherwise excellent caps for recapping projects.

[Newbie2]

Re: Chaintech Volari V3 128MB AGP

The TEAPOs aren't that bad - I'd suggest stopping after replacing this 2nd cap and seeing if it works stably. If it's OK, don't risk ruining the card by replacing all the caps with great difficulty.

It's an old card that's collecting dust in my closet. It's even weaker than some BFG GeForce FX 5500 AGP card I also have beside it. That FX 5500 is a backup card (still runs Vista Aero with limited speed), while the Volari V3 is only compatible with at least AGP 1.5V slots (4X to 8X). I use some old GeForce2 GTS to fill the place of an old PC. That Volari V3 is better than a GeForce4 MX or Radeon 9200SE, but worse than a GeForce FX 5200. It's a DirectX 8.1 card, and it was introduced at the time most cards had DirectX 9.

It doesn't really matter if I ruin the card.

[Newbie2]

Re: Chaintech Volari V3 128MB AGP

I tried applying 63/37 solder to the lead end that's sticking out the back of the board, then applying heat from my soldering iron from the left side and using a set of pliers to try to pull it out from the right side. No go.

>If it's traditional tin/lead solder, try adding a drop of 63:37 solder to the pad, reheating the pad and extracting the lead with tweezers/pliers.

Sorry for my noob question.

So, what's the pad?

I don't understand what that means. If I did, then I might this thing out.