I invested a lot of time on a lot of 470uf and up caps on this several years ago, but still it wouldn't POST. Is there significant likelihood that if I replaced all the 220uf and 100uf G-luxons that it would POST again? None appear to bulge or ooze.
no post Pcchips T18 after recapping
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Re: no post Pcchips T18 after recapping
Never had a PCChips T18, but I've worked on several M810.
When I got them, all would POST, but ran unstable (freeze). Replaced all caps, even small ones, on 1st board. It's stable now, tested with WinXP, linux, and NetBSD.
Seemed like a good start, so I replaced all caps on 2nd board too. Now it won't POST. Bah! OK, 3rd board, replaced about half the caps. Now it won't POST either. Double Bah! So of three boards, I fixed one and killed two. Maybe too much flexing and stress on the BGA solder balls? Dunno. Working on a BGA chip is beyond my tools and ability.
So I do not advise further effort on your T18.
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Re: no post Pcchips T18 after recapping
I would remove few caps...
First on the list is Sanyo ME-WG 1500uF 16V (guessing), the most distant from inductor, speaking of vrm-in of cpu...
After that, would replace those Panasonics from vrm-out, with recommended (from this site) Sanyo
https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...products_id=79...
Would certainly wait for some other advices too....Last edited by tmiha71; 07-28-2014, 03:01 PM.Comment
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Re: no post Pcchips T18 after recapping
I bought the board new, used it until shortly after warranty expired. I replaced the obviously bad and non-obvious twins with Nichicons and it POSTED several times, then refused to POST any more. So I replaced all the rest from 470uf on up with more Nichicons, but it's never posted since. I bought 200uf/10v Nichicons to replace the G-Luxons near Northbridge and PCIe slot, but wonder if it's seriously likely that would help, hence my OP. At this point, what would pix show anyone here?Comment
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