Samsung SyncMaster 204b

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  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    Originally posted by john98103
    I took these voltages from the power supply when it was separated from the monitor; should I have tested while all boards were attached?
    Well, that WOULD help verify the nature of the problem. Ordinarily if no signal is present the power LED goes from blue (or green) to amber within a few seconds. It is very unusual for it to go blank.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:


  • john98103
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    I took these voltages from the power supply when it was separated from the monitor; should I have tested while all boards were attached?

    Leave a comment:


  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    Originally posted by john98103
    Voltages are as follows
    CN2
    #1:PWN-Dim - 0-volts
    #2,3 & 4 - ground - 0-volts
    #5,6 &7 - 13V - 13.11 – volts
    #8 - Dim - 0 –volts
    #9 -on/off -0 –volts

    CN3 through CN6 all measure zero volts.
    You've got a problem on the signal card. The pictures supplied in post #1 aren't good enough to provide much troubleshooting assistance. I can identify a voltage regulator, but not much else.

    I would suggest you take a good, clear picture of the signal card and attach it to your next post using 'Manage Attachments' (below the text entry area). We're looking for something like 2000 x 2000 pixel resolution.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:


  • john98103
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    Voltages are as follows
    CN2
    #1:PWN-Dim - 0-volts
    #2,3 & 4 - ground - 0-volts
    #5,6 &7 - 13V - 13.11 – volts
    #8 - Dim - 0 –volts
    #9 -on/off -0 –volts

    CN3 through CN6 all measure zero volts.

    Leave a comment:


  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    Originally posted by john98103
    I have this same power supply. main characteristic of my problem is a blank screen and power light glows blue for a short moment and then turns off. I replaced C110 and C111 with 820uF 35V which were obviously bad and I replaced the three 330uF 25V which looked OK. This did not fix my problem. I'm most curious what the power light OFF might indicate.
    It could indicate a number of things. A first step is to measure the voltages out of the power supply.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:


  • john98103
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    I have this same power supply. main characteristic of my problem is a blank screen and power light glows blue for a short moment and then turns off. I replaced C110 and C111 with 820uF 35V which were obviously bad and I replaced the three 330uF 25V which looked OK. This did not fix my problem. I'm most curious what the power light OFF might indicate.

    Leave a comment:


  • retiredcaps
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    Originally posted by Tomato
    I've got virtually exactly the same issue.
    If you hookup a working computer showing your favourite wallpaper, can you see it if you shine a flashlight on the lcd?

    It would help to have clear focused pictures of your boards so we can indicate out test points. Please use the manage attachments function to upload your pictures (2000x2000 is the max resolution). Please do not post pics inline as they slow down the loading of pages.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tomato
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    hey folks,

    Sorry to resurrect such an old thread but....I've got virtually exactly the same issue. I replaced the obviously bad 'lytics on the inverter board, and then some (upgrade from CapXon's to Nichicon's can't hurt, right?). But I don't think this is a power supply problem! I have rudimentary knowledge of power supplies, but the video board is total black magic to me! Any solutions found? Or, can anyone point me in some direction or another? I inspected the video board and everything is clean, traces are intact, wires are all intact. How might I solve this?

    Any help is appreciated,
    Tomato

    Leave a comment:


  • Juluscesar
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    Have the same problem. 1/3 of my samsung syncmaster is OK below 2/3 part is missed up. Just came sudden making a word document on my machine.

    Any solution yet ?

    Leave a comment:


  • PlainBill
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    Originally posted by Freezer
    Sorry it took a while to post back. Using a DMM I checked some voltages at various points inside this monitor.

    First, the power cable that runs from the power board to the video board. Several lines in that wire are spec'ed to carry 13V, and indeed they are carrying a steady 13V of power. Second, the video ribbon between the two video boards. There are several lines which are supposed to carry 5V which are delivering a steady 4.9V (which I'm assuming it fine). The remaining lines in the ribbon vary from .83V to 1.6V. A few of the wires read at 0V. I previously checked the cable for continuity and it checked out, so I'm assuming these 0V readings are normal.

    At this point I think the monitor is beginning to take more time than I think it's worth. I also feel like I've become a drain on this forum, taking up everyone's expert advise with little to provide in return.
    There are two possibilities; either the logic card (which probably be called the video card or control card), or the panel card (I believe retiredcaps refers to it as video board 2). It certainly doesn't look like a power supply issue, which eliminates the voltage regulators on the logic card.

    I'd have to say that the best move would be to shelve it until another 204b falls into your hands; I suspect you will find this one has a bad panel card.

    PlainBill

    Leave a comment:


  • retiredcaps
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    Originally posted by Freezer
    There are several lines which are supposed to carry 5V which are delivering a steady 4.9V (which I'm assuming it fine). The remaining lines in the ribbon vary from .83V to 1.6V. A few of the wires read at 0V. I previously checked the cable for continuity and it checked out, so I'm assuming these 0V readings are normal.
    4.9 is fine. 0V is normal as some of those pins are probably ground.

    Originally posted by Freezer
    At this point I think the monitor is beginning to take more time than I think it's worth. I also feel like I've become a drain on this forum, taking up everyone's expert advise with little to provide in return.
    It is up to you if you want to continue. When no one responds to your posts, it means "we" have given up or we have no more suggestions.

    I'm happy to provide more suggestions, but if you don't have the time, recycle it on craigslist/kijiji and maybe someone else can use it for parts.
    Last edited by retiredcaps; 07-25-2010, 03:24 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Freezer
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    Originally posted by retiredcaps
    Did you get a chance to take those voltage readings on the connectors and voltage regulators? I'm hoping the readings will help narrow down the problem to either the logic card or the lcd panel.
    Sorry it took a while to post back. Using a DMM I checked some voltages at various points inside this monitor.

    First, the power cable that runs from the power board to the video board. Several lines in that wire are spec'ed to carry 13V, and indeed they are carrying a steady 13V of power. Second, the video ribbon between the two video boards. There are several lines which are supposed to carry 5V which are delivering a steady 4.9V (which I'm assuming it fine). The remaining lines in the ribbon vary from .83V to 1.6V. A few of the wires read at 0V. I previously checked the cable for continuity and it checked out, so I'm assuming these 0V readings are normal.

    At this point I think the monitor is beginning to take more time than I think it's worth. I also feel like I've become a drain on this forum, taking up everyone's expert advise with little to provide in return.

    Leave a comment:


  • retiredcaps
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    Originally posted by Freezer
    Are they saying turn the brightness and contrast all the way to their lowest setting? In which case how's one suppose to see the service menu? Also, it says to press the "Enter" button, except this monitor doesn't have a menu button.
    I don't think it will hurt to try the variations.

    Did you get a chance to take those voltage readings on the connectors and voltage regulators? I'm hoping the readings will help narrow down the problem to either the logic card or the lcd panel.

    Leave a comment:


  • Freezer
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    Originally posted by retiredcaps
    This is a long shot, but did you try resetting this monitor back to factory defaults? See posts #186 to #197 (just before your post).
    I tried that, but I can't tell if anything is happening. Because I can't see the lower 2/3s of the screen I can't tell if any of the menus work. I tried to do it by "feel" without looking at the screen, but no go. It doesn't help these service manual instructions were poorly translated from Korean to English.

    1. Hidden Service Function -. After setting brightness and contrast '0' push the "Enter" button more than 5 seconds.
    Are they saying turn the brightness and contrast all the way to their lowest setting? In which case how's one suppose to see the service menu? Also, it says to press the "Enter" button, except this monitor doesn't have a menu button.

    Leave a comment:


  • retiredcaps
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    Originally posted by Freezer
    wiseview
    LRU4312X1A
    0613
    KSA98
    Darn, no datasheet on this chip or on the MST6281 chip.

    This is a long shot, but did you try resetting this monitor back to factory defaults? See posts #186 to #197 (just before your post).

    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...&page=10&pp=20

    Leave a comment:


  • Freezer
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    Originally posted by retiredcaps
    What is that big chip (with the black felt marker) on video board 2? Can you post the part number?
    That chip reads as follows:

    wiseview
    LRU4312X1A
    0613
    KSA98

    Leave a comment:


  • retiredcaps
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    Originally posted by Freezer
    Anyway, attached is a picture of the layout of the back of the monitor.
    Okay, that makes sense now. What is that big chip (with the black felt marker) on video board 2? Can you post the part number?

    Leave a comment:


  • Freezer
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    Originally posted by retiredcaps
    I'm having a hard time visually seeing the "big picture" with long video boards. Can you put everything (power, logic, inverter, cables) laid out into one picture? That way, I can see what connects to what and where. A top down view. The details aren't important in this picture, I just want to see the whole thing.
    Sorry it took a while to get back to you, this has been one busy week. Anyway, attached is a picture of the layout of the back of the monitor. Note the labels "video 1" and "video 2" are names I'm using, they are not official Samsung terms.

    I've also had a chance to use a DMM and check the ribbon cable between the video boards. It checks out fine. I'll check the other tests you suggest hopefully this coming week.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • retiredcaps
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    This is what I mean. See PlainBill's pic of a plasma

    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...chmentid=16900

    It will help troubleshoot why the bottom 2/3rds is not displaying correctly.

    Originally posted by retiredcaps
    Can you put everything (power, logic, inverter, cables) laid out into one picture?

    Leave a comment:


  • retiredcaps
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 204b

    Originally posted by Freezer
    I didn't think to use a multimeter to check that cable and traces on the circuit board.

    Regarding tests 3 and 6 - I compare voltage while the monitor is running against a grounded part of the monitor, correct?
    You should get 0.3 or 0.4 ohms when tracing out the cable and traces.

    For test 3, pick a ground screw and put your (black) COM there. Put your red probe on the pins at CN201. I'm guessing the first 2 pins will be 5V DC and all the others in the 1.2V DC range?

    For testing the voltage regulators, there are usually 3 pins. One is ground and one is "input" and one is "output". If you look at the markings on the voltage regulators, there should be a part number. Search for the datasheet and that will tell what is ground. Put your black probe on ground and then measure in and output voltage. It should match the datasheet exactly. All the voltage regulators should be measured with DC.

    The other suggestion I have is actually looking at the LCD panel and making sure there are no obvious burn/bad connections.

    I'm having a hard time visually seeing the "big picture" with long video boards. Can you put everything (power, logic, inverter, cables) laid out into one picture? That way, I can see what connects to what and where. A top down view. The details aren't important in this picture, I just want to see the whole thing.

    Leave a comment:

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