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Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

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  • budm
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    47uF 63VDC is fine.
    Your board looks like this?
    http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/y...msung%20225BW/

    Leave a comment:


  • jptbadcaps
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    I'm looking to replace all of the caps in 225BW with Panasonic FR series.
    There is no 47uF 50V but there is 47uF 63V. It should be fine right?

    47uF 63V P15400-ND

    330uF 25V P14415-ND

    820uF 25V P14423-ND

    Leave a comment:


  • selldoor
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    Roseofura -is yours a 225BW - if it is please edit your post.
    If it is not Please start a new thread or find a thread for the 205BW
    and edit all this one out and put " posted in error"

    Leave a comment:


  • roseorufa
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    Posted in error to wrong thread.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by roseorufa; 11-11-2012, 12:51 PM. Reason: Posted in error

    Leave a comment:


  • Pentium4
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    Originally posted by jetadm123 View Post
    Just goes to show you that you can't make any assumptions with poor quality caps. If you're going to replace them, then do a complete job and replace them all (except for the large main cap, which rarely fails). Saves a lot of time and guesswork and gives you a good starting point if replacing the caps doesn't solve the problem.
    Yep, of course I replaced them all. I don't trust those brands

    Leave a comment:


  • jetadm123
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    Originally posted by Pentium4 View Post
    Strange, I just recapped this monitor. It would have to be on for about 6 hours for it to shut off. It just had one bad CapXon in it, 470uF 25V. It was strange because it was the farthest away from all the heat, and yet all the ones next to the output rectifier and the ones only millimeters away from the transformer were just fine. 8/9 CapXon, 1 Samwha
    Just goes to show you that you can't make any assumptions with poor quality caps. If you're going to replace them, then do a complete job and replace them all (except for the large main cap, which rarely fails). Saves a lot of time and guesswork and gives you a good starting point if replacing the caps doesn't solve the problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pentium4
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    Strange, I just recapped this monitor. It would have to be on for about 6 hours for it to shut off. It just had one bad CapXon in it, 470uF 25V. It was strange because it was the farthest away from all the heat, and yet all the ones next to the output rectifier and the ones only millimeters away from the transformer were just fine. 8/9 CapXon, 1 Samwha

    Leave a comment:


  • bblancobrnx
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    Just wanted to let everyone here know. YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME! I did this procedure with no soldering experience and the monitor is working perfectly once again. Thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread.

    Leave a comment:


  • bblancobrnx
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    OK, the stuff with lead is suitable for use with a circuit board? I believe the brand was weller that they had at home depot, though I am not sure if they said how many WATTS, they just said it goes to 950 degrees. What is the % of the solder i want to use on this circuit board? I don't have it, so i might as well buy the best stuff

    Leave a comment:


  • budm
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    Soldering should be at least 40Watts, I myself use 60 Watts Weller. Spend the money and buy the good soldering iron. 700 Degree is good for lead soldr, 800 if yiu are goijg to do lead free stuff which I will not use.

    Leave a comment:


  • bblancobrnx
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    I was considering buying a new cordless soldering iron they have for like $30 at home depot. I think they said it goes up to 950 degrees. I am nervous with the gun because it is high watt and I don't have a whole lot of experience with it. Maybye i would be better off buying a new iron. The last thing I want to do is melt the board. I say some solder that was 96%/4%. Is that the solder I want?

    Leave a comment:


  • zwoeger
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    I adviced to ad a little 60/40 lead solder to the solder points before desoldering the old caps that way it's easier to romove them because the lead free solder is hard to work with due to a higher melting point. Same for soldering in the new ones.

    Since you use a high wattage soldering gun I gues you won't need to do that. Be carefull though with that gun you wil easely heat things to much up. You better use a 30 à 60 w soldering iron.

    Leave a comment:


  • bblancobrnx
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    Ok, I am getting ready to do this, but one question. Do I need a specific kind of solder? There is one that has a high sliver content. Is that the one I want? Thank you for any help you can give me on this!


    EDIT: Also, I have an old WEN model 450 soldering gun (450 Watt). Will this be all right for my purposes replacing these caps? Thank you.
    Last edited by bblancobrnx; 10-16-2012, 07:45 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • bblancobrnx
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    Well, My caps came in today. Wow do these panasonic caps look a hell of a lot better than the CrapXCon Caps. I am going to install them beginning of next week and I will post the results here. Thank you all for the help!

    Leave a comment:


  • zwoeger
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    Follow up.

    When I checked the readings in the service menu last evening powered up and one back light showed in the miljons of houres. I then did set everything to zero but the panel change went to 2 .
    This morning when I powered up everything the screen showed green only so I repeated the steps as mentioned in my last post but added step 3. Screen went back to normal and everything in both menus was reset exept for the panel change.
    The monitor however doesn't start up right away after a power down. So to get into the boot menu I have to restart without a power down. Anyway I'm happy with the results so far.

    Another thing I noticed checking other pictures of the power board in this thread is that they are all very clean.
    Mine shows that typical dirt near the transformer as you see in crt's.
    Don't know what that means.
    The picture is after replacing the 0.47 mu cap.I forgot to clean that up after reassembling. Don't know if that matters.

    I think the best video how to disassemble the monitor is :

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLrrcKdJLyw

    To detache the plug from the video board as shown you have to push the clip upwards while pulling. Also it makes desoldering the caps easyer when you first ad some 60/40 lead solder to the joints.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • tom66
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    Glad you fixed it. I guess that is the reset mode, at least Samsung included it... On the 40" Samsungs you have to wire a jumper across the EEPROM chip!

    Leave a comment:


  • zwoeger
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    Well tom66 I did a search in the thread on eeprom and found this:

    1. Press "down arrow" key.
    2. Hold down the "enter" key for 10 seconds.
    3. Turn off and back on. The redness disappears.

    Point 1 and 2 did the trick.
    Everything seems to be alright now. Strange readings in the service menu though. Will look in to it further tomorrow.
    You guys are awsome. THNX!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • bblancobrnx
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    .
    Last edited by bblancobrnx; 10-10-2012, 12:55 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • tom66
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    I've experienced similar problems on Samsung 40" TVs - the EEPROM gets corrupted and causes flickering brightness settings, colours messed up, etc.

    Leave a comment:


  • bblancobrnx
    replied
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

    Has anyone else experienced the same problem as mine? When it cools sufficiently, I turn on the monitor and it starts out not as bright as normal. It flickers a little bit and gets somewhat brighter, but it cuts off before it get's back to the normal brightness and the screen appears black (though it is working as can be seen with a front light) and the blue light stays on solid. Then, cycling the power off and on will just allow the screen to be displayed at full brightness for a split second before it goes dark and the blue power light stays on. Eventually, after cycling LOT of times, it will eventually come on normally and stay on. I ordered new caps as a few were bulging, but I just want to make sure this sounds like a caps problem and not something else. The fact that it will eventually come on and work fine has me hoping that it is just a caps problem. Thank you all for this awesome informative thread.

    Leave a comment:

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