iiyama Prolite E2208HDD with black screen

[Wonky51]

I have a iiyama Prolite E2208HDD LCD monitor with a weird problem. When I power on the monitor I can see the image for about 1 second before the screen turns black again. The monitor doesn't go into standby mode, the power LED stays on (blue).

When I use a bright flashlight I can see the image very vaguely. I've tried using different (VGA and DVI) cables but it doesn't fix the problem, I've also tried another laptop but no luck.

On the power / inverter board I can't see any (physical) damage to the capacitors, also the logic board seems to look fine.

I've included some pictures:


Power / inverter board:






Some weird white stuff coming out of this component?



Logic board:







I hope someone can help me figure out this problem.

[Chungalin]

Re: iiyama Prolite E2208HDD with black screen

Inverter problem or CCFL problem. Since no caps bulged, I’d try first an external CCFL with each lamp connector (4), while the other 3 are connected to panel lamps. If you find that one lamp is bad, you should open panel and check burnt solder on CCFL terminal. Smell ozone close to top panel corners? If not CCFL problem, then check ESR of all caps, sometimes they’re bad and not bulged.

This kind of "no-backlight" problem in CCFL monitors is extensively covered in many threads of this forum. Please try to learn a bit before asking for customized answers. Search "no backlight", or the sticky thread "2 seconds to black". That’s the way to go.

Forget about "weird white stuff coming out of this component", it’s glue holding a ferrite ring in one leg of rectifier bridge.

[Wonky51]

Re: iiyama Prolite E2208HDD with black screen

So, today I did the CCFL test with another external CCFL from a 19" LCD monitor. I found out that one of the four CCFL's must be broken because both the backlight and external CCFL stayed on while I had it connected to one of the four CCFL ports on the invertor part of the board.

For me this story ends here, I don't think it's worth the time and effort to replace a broken CCFL because the risk that I f*ck something up is just too high, I'm able to replace some bad caps but replacing a CCFL in a LCD panel is a whole other story.

On a side note:
I doubt that this 'CCFL test' is healthy for the other components. While doing it I heard some unhealthy noises, smelled a weird odor and also while the external CCFL stayed on during one of the four tests, it was flickering a bit...