It's in my second post here already, actually, though I perhaps could have been more clear about it...
Eizo FS2333 flickering and dim backlight. How to open it?
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Well, don't know. If I really start with stuff like that I think there is a chance I break the monitor for good, so I'll probably just go through with replacing that poly cap first. It's also annoying to try and operate the monitor with the cover off, the cables are pretty short. I also have no experience with trying to take apart an LCD panel. So I'd really be poking in the dark here.
The one thing that changed since I made this thread is I barely ever see it flicker now, it's just mostly constantly dim now. About 40% or so when set to 100%, and it's very tiring to look at. Looking back, the measurement I first did on the poly cap was 0.32 ohms, now it was 0.44 ohms. This is speculation, but maybe the cap is deteriorating and this is causing the light output to further diminish. Because before, it could operate at high brightness for a short while, or at least during flicker. And for more speculation, since the CX01 cap on the power board was bad, maybe it passed too much ripple and caused the poly cap to prematurely fail.
I have also considered the driver chip on that sub board - BD9264EFV. Oddly can't even find a datasheet for it however, even though it does appear to be in stock in some places. But if I knew what to measure on that thing, or even what voltage should be at the poly cap, maybe that could be of use.Comment
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look at the DIM signal and input power to the board and output voltages on each LED string on the skinny board and graph it. See if something changes. No problem on the forcing on the PSU and backlights, but it does rule out the main boart as the DIM signal comes from there. So you're in for measuring voltages at certain points and graph it or note it down in a chart. hopefully it will tell a story and then we go from there when we got that data.Last edited by CapLeaker; 08-25-2024, 07:51 PM.Comment
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