Hi,
I have this 2.1 Klipsch set where the subwoofer emits a constant whine in standby, in addition to a constant rhythmic pulsing/thumping. Only way to make it stop is to cut power. I think this thread mentions the same issue, though my set is not a BT one: [url]https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/174469-steady-rhythmic-thumping-from-a-promedia-21-bt-subwoofer/[/url]
I think all this Klipsch gear is using crappy capacitors. Is it worth trying to replace the caps in the subwoofer amp to make this go away?https://Hi,<br />
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I have this... set where the
Xan03
Senior Member
Last Activity: 12-01-2024, 06:03 PM
Joined: 01-15-2021
Location: Germany
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Klipsch Promedia 2.1 rhythmic subwoofer "pulsing" during standby
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Well, don't know. If I really start with stuff like that I think there is a chance I break the monitor for good, so I'll probably just go through with replacing that poly cap first. It's also annoying to try and operate the monitor with the cover off, the cables are pretty short. I also have no experience with trying to take apart an LCD panel. So I'd really be poking in the dark here.
The one thing that changed since I made this thread is I barely ever see it flicker now, it's just mostly constantly dim now. About 40% or so when set to 100%, and it's very tiring to look at. Looking... -
It's in my second post here already, actually, though I perhaps could have been more clear about it...Leave a comment:
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Replaced the primary power cap today, and that changed absolutely nothing, which I already expected after pulling the old cap and measuring both. The new one actually measured with ever so slightly lower capacitance and higher ESR, despite being a bit longer. So the old primary cap was probably fine, though I still don't understand the capacitance fluctuations that I saw on it.
I'm really looking at the poly cap next, because it measured with an ESR of 0.44 ohms, while the spec sheet says either 37 milliohms (8x10) or 56 milliohms (10x8) for this - I think the latter dimensions should...Leave a comment:
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Haven't done anything else so far, but the issue actually improved since, at least in my perception. Almost no flicker, still getting progressively dimmer over the day but it can run for hours with decent brightness now. Been running with it set to 100% again this entire week. The only thing that changed is maybe a 1-2°C higher room temp.
What I haven't mentioned is the cap I put in was actually over 4.5 years old according to the date code and measured with out of spec ESR, so maybe it reformed in circuit and is working better now, but I have no idea if that could take days as opposed...Leave a comment:
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A cold solder joint would have to exclusively affect the power delivery to the LEDs in some way, because the image is fine otherwise. But a joint can only have two states, connected or not connected, so I would assume it to alternate between fail/not fail, but it's actually much more granular. First it dims, then flicker starts etc. When running 70% with a fan, it can run for a good while without flickering while further dimming gradually over time. So that granularity is why I'm thinking component failure rather than cold solder joint. You could say it's several cold solder joints but that would...Leave a comment:
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Well, I didn't apply heat, but use a fan due to summertime. The thing is, when it dims or flickers, it's always completely uniform across the screen. At least from what I can imagine, a cold solder joint could show as either some individual LED failing, or a more severe failure than what I'm seeing. And it would probably be affected by applying some vibration, which this is not. It's just affected by letting the monitor run - the longer it runs, the dimmer and more flickery it gets, and setting the brightness high accelerates it. On brightness set to 100%, after turning the monitor on, it will...Leave a comment:
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It should be multi voltage capable. Manual says this:
100 - 120 VAC ±10 %, 50/60 Hz 0,7 A
200 - 240 VAC ±10 %, 50/60 Hz 0,45 ALeave a comment:
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Well, I'll order a new primary cap and put that in, and hope that fixes the problem and I won't have to mess with the SMD cap. Will upgrade to 450V as well. If you look at the power board, it actually has space for two primary caps, and the one that they used only takes up about 4/5 of the footprint. That smells like cost cutting to me, though on the other hand I don't understand why they used a 63V part for that poly cap on the driver board.Leave a comment:
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A cold solder joint I doubt, because moving the monitor around has no bearing on the issue. It wasn't moved either when the issue started.
Bad LEDs I have considered and that could be a possibility, but I have no way of diagnosing or fixing that as it would involve disassembling the panel itself. Though I've read that these LEDs should be more durable than CCFLs.
Putting the brightness at 100% (which is what I used to run for the longest time), it will stay at an actual 100% only for very few minutes until the issues start. I'm running right now at 70% with a fan towards...Leave a comment:
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I'm not seeing any color issues, just the backlight goes dim soon after turning on, and eventually starts flickering. It doesn't really flicker in the rare case where it still runs at 100%, but I've seen it run at about 50% and then flash to 100% for a brief moment, which looks really bad.Leave a comment:
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This brightness issue seems to actually have some firmware related aspect to it as well. So, the monitor has an "eco" mode that will dim the backlight automatically based on a light sensor. Never used it, so it's always off, but it occurred to me to try and switch it on, and back off again once the brightness issue got really bad. Lo and behold, the backlight got fully bright again, even though the eco mode had not been on in the first place.
Though ultimately I think some worn parts are to blame, because it takes about 10 minutes for it to be dim again and flicker. Maybe...Leave a comment:
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The issue still persists after changing that one cap on the power board, it can be dim for 5 minutes, then bright for a minute and flicker inbetween. So I've looked up what that single poly SMD cap on the sub board is and it's a Nichicon PCV 22µF/63V, rated at 3000h at 105°C. The monitor ran for almost 40,000h as of right now. What are the chances that this cap is what causes the issues with the brightness? The ESR that I have measured on this before (0.32 ohms) would be way out of spec if true, however it was in-circuit and was just a single measurement. The cap does actually appear to be located...Leave a comment:
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Found Nichicon HE as a 1:1 replacement for KY, but ran into an issue with the 47µF/35V KZH cap - this has no FR/FM equivalent and other series like FC, Nichicon PS all have 2.5mm lead spacing instead of 2mm. Closest I can get that fits looks to be a 47µF/25V FR. What are the chances that the cap would actually see >25V in this circuit? Or am I better off just leaving that cap in instead?Leave a comment:
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Replaced CX01 now, which indeed turned out to be a KZH, with a FR. That KZH measured at 905µF and 0.15 ohms after pulling it, so it was definitely bad. Nominal ESR for that cap is 0.02 ohms. After turning it on, at first the monitor was still very dim and flickered a little bit, but after leaving it on for 20 minutes, it seems to be back to full brightness and no flickering. This to me points to the primary KXG being on its way out too, because after I had unplugged the monitor for a couple days because the flicker was getting intolerable, the cap measured at only 90µF during the repair. I'll...Leave a comment:
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After watching some teardowns of other Eizo monitors, I did manage to take it apart - have to carefully pry the sides open, I used one of those metal tools that are typically used for smartphone displays. Caps on the power board are as follows, and I've also measured all of them in-circuit with an Atlas ESR60:
C002 KXG 100µF/400V (113µF/0.24 Ohms)
C005 KY 10µF/50V (10.35 µF/0.4 Ohms)
C008 KZH 47µF/35V (46.66 µF/0.18 Ohms)
CX01 KZG/KZH/KZN (?) 820µF/25V (900 µF/0.06 Ohms)
So everything looks pretty much in spec, but the CX01 cap that I had originally...Leave a comment:
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Eizo FS2333 flickering and dim backlight. How to open it?
Hi everybody,
my 11 year old Eizo FS2333 started having issues today for the first time, the backlight suddenly got very dim and started flickering. I thought that I could run the monitor at 40-50% brightness as a stopgap (100% normally) but even then it flickers a lot. I'm guessing it's failing capacitors on the power board. The boards for this monitor look like this:
[url]https://www.shopjimmy.com/eizo-foris-05a25879d2-power-supply-for-fs2333-led-gaming-monitor/[/url]
[url]https://www.shopjimmy.com/eizo-foris-05a26109d1-main-board-for-fs2333-led-gaming-monitor/[/url]... -
Re: GTX 670 identified GTX 690
That's strange, did someone expect the card to grow a second GPU if it's flashed to a 690?
Try a different version, or try forcing the flash if you haven't, I think there's a help command that will show what you need to type. People also recommended to use the DOS version of nvflash with these Kepler cards in general, if I recall.Leave a comment:
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Old capacitor series with "CE" markings
Most that have opened some old consoles or other Japanese devices from the early 90s have probably seen these light blue Rubycon GP caps marked "CE W", like in this Mega Drive example:
[ATTACH]254310[/ATTACH]
(image source: [url]https://www.flickr.com/photos/130561288@N04/41362772945[/url])
Now from what I gathered the actual series name for these is TWSS, since I've not seen the spec sheet on this forum I've attached it for posterity sake, even though it's probably not hugely interesting. Amusingly there's still a ton of Aliexpress listings floating... -
Re: [R] Capacitor brand identification
It's actually Rubycon's marking for small capacitors, according to [url]http://capacitor.web.fc2.com[/url].Re: [R] Capacitor brand identificati...fc2.com[/url].Re: [R] Capacitor brand identification
It's actually Rubycon's marking for small capacitors, according to [url]http://capacitor.web.fc2.com[/url].Leave a comment:
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