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Xan03
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Last Activity: 10-30-2022, 05:14 PM
Joined: 01-15-2021
Location: Germany
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  • Re: GTX 670 identified GTX 690

    That's strange, did someone expect the card to grow a second GPU if it's flashed to a 690?

    Try a different version, or try forcing the flash if you haven't, I think there's a help command that will show what you need to type. People also recommended to use the DOS version of nvflash with these Kepler cards in general, if I recall.
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  • Old capacitor series with "CE" markings

    Most that have opened some old consoles or other Japanese devices from the early 90s have probably seen these light blue Rubycon GP caps marked "CE W", like in this Mega Drive example:

    [ATTACH]254310[/ATTACH]
    (image source: [url]https://www.flickr.com/photos/130561288@N04/41362772945[/url])

    Now from what I gathered the actual series name for these is TWSS, since I've not seen the spec sheet on this forum I've attached it for posterity sake, even though it's probably not hugely interesting. Amusingly there's still a ton of Aliexpress listings floating...
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  • Re: [R] Capacitor brand identification

    It's actually Rubycon's marking for small capacitors, according to [url]http://capacitor.web.fc2.com[/url].Re: [R] Capacitor brand identificati...fc2.com[/url].Re: [R] Capacitor brand identification

    It's actually Rubycon's marking for small capacitors, according to [url]http://capacitor.web.fc2.com[/url].
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  • Re: Panasonic FC series - leaking? quality gone?

    I just got a single 470uF/6.3V FC cap in the other day which does have a bit of this green corrosion, date code is presumably May 2021. It's mostly on the negative leg with just a hint of it on the positive. Definitely won't be using this cap. Assuming this isn't actually from 2011, leaking after just half a year might be a record for these, even though it's only a single cap of course...

    That said, in my stash of unused FC caps of various sizes with date codes going back to 2013 or so I wasn't able to spot any leakage...
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  • Re: Sony Phat PlayStation PS2 power supply repair

    I've picked up a cheap SCPH-39004 (incidentally claimed by some sources to be one of the most reliable models in terms of laser, for whatever that's worth), and I can see from looking through the front vent and fan grill that at least this particular unit does not have the Delta PSU with Ltec caps. The little sleeveless caps are the giveaway, so in case anyone wants to check their unit without opening it up I'll attach a pic I have found on the internet....
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  • Re: Sony Phat PlayStation PS2 power supply repair

    Not irrelevant at all - nobody's claiming that good caps last "forever", but cap brand has a good chance of making the difference of a device failing now (specifically due to that C3 here) or still having a good decade or two of service life left in it. And most people aren't about fixing stuff so those affected models are likely to be junked, making them rarer in the future.

    It's actually even less irrelevant with those screw-less power bricks, which are a pain in the ass to open, so good caps are even more...
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    Last edited by Xan03; 02-19-2021, 08:01 AM.

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  • Re: Sony Phat PlayStation PS2 power supply repair

    I don't currently have any fat PS2 models myself, but I've recently read about few cap failures on these Ltec-equipped Delta power boards, and as in OPs case, it seems to be C3 that usually fails. To add a bit more detail about specific models, the ADP-75EP seems to have been used in 120V SCPH-3900x consoles, and there was also an ADP-75JP that was at least used in 230V SCPH-5000x machines - same story with that. I'm currently unsure if 230V 3900x and 120V 5000x units are affected too.

    The primary cap on said Delta power...
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  • Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

    About TOSIN, on that Japanese site ([url]http://capacitor.web.fc2.com/t.html#tosin[/url]) it seems to be mentioned that they were in fact a Japanese maker in the 90s that cooperated with Fuhjyyu.Re: Power supply build quality picto... with Fuhjyyu.Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

    About TOSIN, on that
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  • Re: Sony Trinitron E450 bad contrast 15-20 minutes after turning on

    Yes I misread while skimming back through the posts here, this should be for C572.
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  • Re: Sony Trinitron E450 bad contrast 15-20 minutes after turning on

    So while I got the caps for this in a while back, for one of them I had to get a Panasonic NHG (4.7uF/400V, that heater cap apparently), and that one doesn't measure too great on the ESR60 - 4.32uF and 4.8 ohms ESR. Now since that is at 100khz maybe the ESR is normal but capacitance is a bit low for a supposedly brand new cap. Does anyone know how to read this style of Panasonic date codes? It says "87IIIDA".

    I have since actually found a source for Rubycon YXF but oddly everything >100V...
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  • Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2


    Yes, good eye... especially considering the blurry pictures


    Same, and actually, nevermind my statement about Jamicon in Trinitrons - I think I got that confused with a Philips TV I had once checked.


    Nice repair (as for the toy as well, btw, which really sounds like solving a jigsaw puzzle in a weird way), at a glance I can barely even make out where that PCB was cracked... and yeah, I'm well aware the PSU is totally fixable with the proper time/skills; I might attempt...
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  • Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

    Here's a classic AT Seasonic from 1995 - a SSG-200G. Another cheap pickup that is still untested as of now.





    Electrolytics, as far as I could identify:

    2x TOSIN LG2 330uF/200V
    9x Rubycon MH 1uF-10uF/50V, biggest one unidentified
    Rubycon CE W 470uF/16V
    CEHTR 105° 1000uF/16V
    PCE-TUR TU WV (?) 1000uF/10V
    PCE-TUR 2200uF/10V

    That's an interesting mix to say the least... I think Seasonic is one of those makers that is known for using only Japanese...
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    Last edited by Xan03; 02-07-2021, 10:40 PM.

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  • Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2


    Well, I may or may not have just the right tool at hand to prove you wrong... enter the Astec AA21790 200W ATX PSU from 2000






    Just kidding of course, but it does seem like they had at least a little stint with cheaping out a bit on capacitors... that's especially strange here as this particular unit feels very well built with some serious weight to it - most of that will be from what looks to be the passive PFC here, but even the outer metal casing looks to be sturdier than...
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  • Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

    Yeah, the APFC+undersized primary cap combination definitely smells like a planned obsolescence mechanism; you can even see by the radial mark on the pictures how there's room for a much bigger cap diameter there. In my current PSU, the primary cap there is a blue sleeved Hitachi 105°C one - not 100% sure on the specs but I seem to recall it's 420uF/450V or thereabouts. Would still be not fantastic but nevertheless an upgrade over this. There's no reviews of the 450W version unfortunately, but the 550W has a 470uF/420V Nichicon GN....
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    Last edited by Xan03; 02-07-2021, 12:14 AM.

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  • Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame

    Did a little writeup on a dead bequiet PSU over in the [URL="https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpost.php?p=1021914&postcount=3109"]other thread[/URL], but I figured I might as well post this other one from the junk box as well before disposing of it... this is a bequiet Pure Power L7 430W bought in 2011. This one never saw much use other than for occasional testing.






    Perhaps not as terrible as much of the other stuff in this thread, though the c(r)ap selection...
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    Last edited by Xan03; 02-06-2021, 05:33 PM.

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  • Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

    Before I post some more older PSUs, here's something newer first: a bequiet Straight Power E9 400W that was in use in my main PC from 2012 to 2020. I won't bother with a capacitor list for this as it's probably in some review on the net already.

    Why did I stop using it? Well, one day I was cleaning my PC and from what I recall improperly put the graphics card back in the slot without noticing it, and when I went to turn the PC back on it tripped my fuse box; reset the fuse and tried it again (foolishly, perhaps), same...
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    Last edited by Xan03; 02-06-2021, 03:09 PM.

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  • Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

    I have a little selection of old AT and ATX PSUs around that I'll try to post here over time, some of them I intermittently use with vintage hardware. I'll start with this Astec AT unit from early 1995.




    All Japanese electrolytics, which is kind of rare for a PC PSU of the time from all I've seen, so that's good... but wait, what are those yellow things on the input?




    Yep, it's those RIFA Y-caps, and they sure are cracked - an apparently quite well-known issue that...
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    Last edited by Xan03; 02-06-2021, 01:08 PM.

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  • Re: Sony Trinitron E450 bad contrast 15-20 minutes after turning on

    It is a soldering station actually, just a really crappy one - a ZD-937 (don't know if that thing is sold under that model number worldwide). The 48W number might be just on paper anyway as I've rather had the issue of not enough heat being transfered despite setting it to 370°C, especially on newer PCBs with lots of layers and ground planes. While this CRT chassis probably doesn't quite fall under that category a desoldering gun would really make things much easier and safer in any event.

    Here's...
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  • Re: Sony Trinitron E450 bad contrast 15-20 minutes after turning on

    Thanks for the clarification on that heater voltage and additional info. The HMD-440 is a different monitor but it's the same 19VC chassis as mine as R_J had mentioned. They probably did use this PCB for different models as I've seen an unpopulated area on the board. In post #4 I linked the service manual for mine though it's a low quality version so it's hard to make out some of the diagrams.

    For the E540, I assumed this to be just another version of the E450 as the cabinet seems to look identical,...
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  • Re: Roland KR-370 Main board

    These capacitors are absolutely notorious for destroying mid-90s Roland gear. Not that it matters much now but I can't help but wonder which manufacturer was responsible for this and if it's related to the quaternary ammonium salt formulas mentioned on this forum.

    There's a site that claims to have the service manual for this device but as they only seem to send it out in exchange for other service manuals I won't bother linking it here.
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