Gateway FPD2485W disassembly?

[pws442]

Just how do you get the back panel off? Got the screws, including the stand plate, but not sure how to proceed. Poking and prodding with finesse was unsuccessful Please help with pictures and arrows explaining it. Thanks from someone awfully scared

[Rtech]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W disassembly?

Have not seen these, But usually you can get your fingernails between the Screen and either the top or bottom surround of most monitors and one of them will usually come free,allowing you to work your way around,and freeing the remainder.Hope that helps

[PlainBill]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W disassembly?

Guitar picks, butter knives, credit cards, putty knives, and small, thin screwdrivers have been used as alternatives to fingernails.

PlainBill

[alexanna]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W disassembly?

When you figure out how to unsnap all the plasic clips, Have the monitor laying with the front bezel/screen down on something soft, and then lift the back off.
There is a very small flat ribbon cable from the front panel switch to the logic board,be very careful with it. The ribbon is very easy to damage

[productoffers]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W disassembly?

1 Turn over the monitor, place face down on a soft protected surface.
2 Remove three screws along the bottom edge. Remove the four screws on metal mounting bracket plate in the middle on the back.
3 This is the most difficult step. If you have ever seperated any modern electronic it is about the same. Carefully pry the two halves apart (I used plastic knives, old credit cards, etc. to keep the halves separated). Start with the bottom section and move along the seam edge. Carefully pry it apart. Be careful not to break the (white plastic) speaker brackets. In essence, don't pry the nylon tabs apart, but only the case itself. The case is held together with internal plastic tabs that run around the outside of the case. So, when you are prying it apart, it feels as though you are breaking the case.
4 With the power and video connections facing away from you remove the back and set it aside. You don't need to remove the LCD from the front of the case. Note if you do, the power on and control strip located on the right side has a very small cable with a ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) connector for connecting the very small ribbon cable to the board. The ZIF wire-to-board connector has a little tab that can be lifted up slightly to remove the ribbon cable from the connector itself. There was a little piece of black tape covering the connector that I removed prior to lifting the tab.
5 To get inside the electronics, the shielding must be removed. Remove the shielding on the right by carefully releasing the lock down tabs sliding it to the right.
6 This next step must be done prior to removing the main shielding covering all the power supply electronics. Remove the small USB board on the left by removing metal cover by carefully releasing the lock down tabs and sliding to the left. Then remove the two mounting screws, and carefully unplug the small power connector to the board. Place this board off to the side.
7 Remove four screws (3 on bottom, 1 on left side) that hold the center shielding cover in place. Once the screws are removed, the shield can then be slid forward. Once that is done, the center shield can be lifted off. Note the foam tape underneath made it seem like it was stuck. Just firmly push up and it will come off.

Access to the power supply capacitors and other electronics is now visible, and you can quickly check all the capacitors for any signs of bulging. I had five capacitors on mine that were bulging.

8 Remove the PSU board from the chassis by removing the mounting screws and disconnecting the cable from the inverter card. Also, the screws for the power plug connector plate must also be removed before the board can be pulled off.
9 Replace the capacitors on the bench.
10 If necessary remove the inverter card by first carefully removing each of the connectors, by slightly lifting up the connector clips and sliding off the cable connectors from the circuit board.
11 Remove the inverter mounting screws and lift off the board.
12 Replace the two capacitors on board.
13 Reinstall everything in reverse order.
14 Make sure the small ribbon cable connector is fully inserted into the ZIF wire-to-board connector and also that the traces of the ribbon cable itself is fully lined up with the connector edge. My cable had the traces slightly loose from the cable itself and needed to be straightened out parallel to each other.
15 Put the whole thing back together by snapping it along the edges. Note to be careful of the power on/off control ribbon cable. You do not want to rip it on the edge of the case, or squeeze it between the two sections.
If you did everything properly, you should be able to plug it in and turn it on.