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Westinghouse LVM37w3 input board.

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    #1

    Westinghouse LVM37w3 input board.

    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...t=westinghouse

    This is the original thread but it full of stuff about the PSU. Eventually I went ahead and bought a new PSU, installed it and the logo light is on but pushing the power button results in nothing.

    There are few lytic caps on the board:
    1 Sanyo 1500uF WX 25v
    4 TAICON 330uF 0607 35V
    1 TAICON 470uF 35V

    The rest are polymers.

    I don't think it's the PSU. Something is not working on the input board, could it be bad caps or something else dead?

    Any ideas? I do get a 5V from PSU but no other voltages, unable to tell if inverter or lamps are bad, because I can't turn on the set.

    This is the only pic right now waiting for the PSU to slowly discharge, before I can remove the input board safely.


    *I do apologize if linking to another thread of mine is prohibited, I won't do it again I just want a fresh thread to start with, and focus on the input board.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Mad_Professor; 05-02-2011, 11:30 AM.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Re: Westinghouse LVM37w3 input board.

    Try checking the fuse below connector CN10. It marked with a "T" and silkscreened 5A/24.

    Comment

      #3
      Re: Westinghouse LVM37w3 input board.

      I see it, tested with DMM showed 01.0 on the 200 setting.

      edit: added more clear shots of the board except it's in two parts.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by Mad_Professor; 05-02-2011, 12:48 PM.

      Comment

        #4
        Re: Westinghouse LVM37w3 input board.

        Took a pic of the back side I had a hard time trying to get a clear shot.

        Anyways I think I'm going to recap the taicons and see what happens, I'm shooting in the dark, maybe I'll get lucky.

        330 are VT and 470 is VR, anyone know if these are good or bad taicons?
        Attached Files

        Comment

          #5
          Ripple

          Ok so in my westinghouse thread *which no one is viewing either they're busy or they don't know.*

          I have set of taicon VR 35v 470uf and VT 35v 330uF and looking at the datasheets the ripple for the 470 is 650 and for 330 it's 440, both are listed as general purpose but doesn't show the impedance value.

          I have a Panasonic FM 470uF 35v it's ripple is 2.18A/19mOhms, and FM 330uF is listed as 1.79A/30mOhms, but what confuses me is this is high ripple cap vs what I want to replace that's low ripple.

          Maybe I don't understand ripple, I've been told on here to match or exceed the ripple rating but if I have too high of a ripple could it affect the operation of the board? or is ripple rating like voltage rating as in allowable ripple current that can pass through?

          Comment

            #6
            Re: Ripple

            Ripple is a max value. Max ripple the cap can take. So, you can allways go higher in ripple, but you should not go lower.

            Comment

              #7
              Re: Ripple

              Use Panasonic FC. The FM's ESR is too low here.
              "We have offered them (the Arabs) a sensible way for so many years. But no, they wanted to fight. Fine! We gave them technology, the latest, the kind even Vietnam didn't have. They had double superiority in tanks and aircraft, triple in artillery, and in air defense and anti-tank weapons they had absolute supremacy. And what? Once again they were beaten. Once again they scrammed [sic]. Once again they screamed for us to come save them. Sadat woke me up in the middle of the night twice over the phone, 'Save me!' He demanded to send Soviet troops, and immediately! No! We are not going to fight for them."

              -Leonid Brezhnev (On the Yom Kippur War)

              Comment

                #8
                Re: Westinghouse LVM37w3 input board.

                Merged threads; no need for two.
                Ludicrous gibs!

                Comment

                  #9
                  Re: Westinghouse LVM37w3 input board.

                  Replaced caps, still it won't turn on, I tested the voltage I get 1v, 3.3v and 5v where the supply plugs into the logic board, at the other end where the switch/button board plugs into I only get 1v, and 3.3v there's three wires that have no current at all. I assume I need a 5v current for the switch?
                  Last edited by Mad_Professor; 05-11-2011, 07:16 PM.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Re: Westinghouse LVM37w3 input board.

                    Originally posted by Mad_Professor View Post
                    Replaced caps, still it won't turn on, I tested the voltage I get 1v, 3.3v and 5v where the supply plugs into the logic board, at the other end where the switch/button board plugs into I only get 1v, and 3.3v there's three wires that have no current at all. I assume I need a 5v current for the switch?
                    My brain scrambled on what a 5 volt current is. That must be up there with a 12 amp wattage.

                    Just a technical joke.

                    Voltage, current (amps), and wattage(power) are three separate things. Just a geek like myself cant pass up a chance to comment.
                    The strong-minded rise to the challenge of their goals,the weak-minded BECOME HATERS

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Re: Westinghouse LVM37w3 input board.

                      Originally posted by Dgtech View Post
                      My brain scrambled on what a 5 volt current is. That must be up there with a 12 amp wattage.

                      Just a technical joke.

                      Voltage, current (amps), and wattage(power) are three separate things. Just a geek like myself cant pass up a chance to comment.

                      Sorry I was running tad late for work so I just wrote what I thought.

                      Jokes aside, what I meant was, I didn't see any voltage, and was wondering if there should be 5v rail for the button/switch board.

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