family friend fixed the whining, by bending the psu straight again. Replacement of that bent cap didn't stop it. When I get it back from him I'll try it in my monitor. Failing that, I think it's eBay time...
If you haven't done so already just double check that all the connectors are plugged in. I had to disassemble twice as I had forgotten to re-connect some connectors. There are quite a few to remember. I hope this is the case for your sake. It's been a marathon so we are all cheering you on to the finish line.
Is there a thread for this model? I haven't been able to find one. There seems to be heaps of info on the 3008 but not much on the earlier model.
I tested the 3 Schottkys I could find in-circuit and they seem to be OK.
I'd be grateful for any assistance.
Cheers
Hello, and welcome to badcaps.
It would definitely be better to start up a new thread on your monitor. That way anybody in the future could find your Dell 3007 in the search, and it would prevent confusion from anybody looking for Dell 3008 info in this thread.
It helps to be specific in the title. Example......
Dell 3007wfp - no power led - does not turn on
Basically....just give a nice short description including the exact model
It's in pristine condition except it won't turn on. As i suspect it has the same issue as half of the other people in here are getting... dead D22 Diode.
well... I shall be opening her up shortly to find out.
It's in pristine condition except it won't turn on. As i suspect it has the same issue as half of the other people in here are getting... dead D22 Diode.
well... I shall be opening her up shortly to find out.
Wow. Congrats! If it's just that diode, you got the deal of the century
I have repaired about 10 of these and I can tell you that most people have trouble seperating the front bezel from the back casing. Here's a nice tutorial on this repair. http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/sho...php?t=18460501
Though I wouldn't try to use a credit card like he did. They are just too flimsy for the job. Here's the way to properly disassemble....
Set it on it's back, screen side up. Now look for any tiny gap that you can find between the top bezel, and the casing. I usually found a mini-gap near the power button. You want to use 2 butter knives to seperate the bezel from the back. Try to push DOWN between the bezel and the back casing. You may need to pry back and forth with the 2 butter knives before you can finally get one to slide down inside. Now pry outward a little and stick the 2nd butter knife in. Slide along to the left with the knife, and reach down and grab the bezel and pull upward until it snaps apart. Do this all the way around.
I have seen a few guides where the person goes in and pries towards, and on, the lcd screen and tries to pry the bezel off on top of the lcd screen. That is a surefire way to crack the LCD
So you always want to be prying downward and outward and pulling up on the bezel. When you have the bezel seperated you can pop in some pieces of cardboard; turn it over and pull off the back plastic casing. Good luck mate!
I've placed the screen in the closet out of sight as i wait patiently for a replacement diode to arrive in the mail. I believe if i only open it once to do the repair when i have the part here and ready to go there will be less chance of breaking it.
the part that i ordered as a replacement to the D22 diode is this
STPS30150CT
cost me $6 to get 2 of them with free shipping to my door. I should get them in 5 days.
datasheet here
not as high voltage as the 170v diode, but to get that one i would have to pay 4 times as much and have to wait as it's on back order
So i figured the original was 120v, a 150v one should suffice.
Uncheck "Hide modes that this monitor cannot display" and you should be able to get more.
Originally posted by PeteS in CA
Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
There are HDMI -> DVI converters as far as i know.
Originally posted by PeteS in CA
Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
There are HDMI -> DVI converters as far as i know.
Yes, but they only convert passively " single link" DVI, even though they have dual link connections, the dual link is 'blank' and only single is passed through the cable.
I have a 3007WFP which does power up (blue led on) when no DVI is connected. Backlight does come on but the Self Test does not show up. If I press the power button, it does turn off. If I connect it to a PC (DVI), the power led turn amber.
From time to time (when it was working), as it would wake up, I would experience a bunch of vertical lines which would be resolved by simply turning it off and back on.
I have not opened up the monitor yet but from reading this thread, I suspect the D22 diode is fine since I am getting power. The controller board seems to be ok since the power button works, usb still works despite no video, it doesn't switch from blue power to amber when a dvi is connected... so could it be some bad capacitors which were starting to fail (vertical lines that I was getting from time to time) which have now failed?
Obviously, I plan on opening the monitor but I am doing some recon first
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