Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
Also R574 is open on the side that connects to Q533. The other side is ok....
Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
Collapse
X
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
Sorry guys, got confused and didn't realize that it's not the left channel that went berzerk, it's the center channel Q533 and Q534 that are short.
R520 wasn't heating up, and the left channel was working, the right channel was not (no sound) and it's while adjusting the bias on the right channel and monitoring heat and voltage, that the center channel popped. This was the good channel up until now.
So I am really confused. No heating, but I think I saw a glow somewhere in the middle of the card when it happened, but can't find any trace of heat or burnt mark????Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
Something still doesn't seem right, if you were monitoring the voltage across the resistor and shut down immediately if you saw anything but a few millivolts, should have been able to save it. Having R520 burn out also will kill the finals so that should have been your clue... did you ever fix that problem? Should have been able to run the amplifier without the finals and R520 should not have been burning hot.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
the new transistors could be fakes ..Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
After a few more tests, trying to adjust bias while monitoring temperatures which were ok, the finals on the left channel popped and now they are shorted again - both. So I give up, will use the surround amplifier instead to listen to music.
Thank you very much to Eccerr0r for all your time and to Pethall347. It has been a long journey which doesn't end like a fairy tale, but what the heck you can't win'em all! Thanks again!Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
Nope, have to do it in situ, powered up...Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
Hi,
I do have an osciloscope and a sine wave signal generator. Can i do this with the board out as there is not much room to go measure on the board itself when it's installed deeply into the receiver?Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
Now for debugging stuff like this you need all those jumpers again so you can measure voltages...
And the right tool for this is probably an oscilloscope (and a sine wave signal generator) so you can see where the signal distorts or disappears...
But posting voltages at different points of each transistor in the path is what's needed to see where the voltages seem out of whack?Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
Ok, so did everything by the book, kept the connectors in to test voltages and so on comparing to the good center channel, and all seemed fine. Proceeded to adjust bias, and was able to adjust bias just like in the manual. Checked temperatures, everything looked cool.
Removed the board to take out the connectors, reassembled everything nice and neat, rechecked bias before connecting speakers, everything seemed perfect. Connected speakers, powered it up and only the left channel was giving sound and not perfect sound.
Redid the bias adjustment being careful to follow the instructions exactly, same result.
So I am getting discouraged, not too sure what's wrong this time. If it wasn't for you Eccerr0r, I would probably send this damn thing to recycling. Is there any hope? Tks again!Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
Probably okay to remove them but best to keep them in... in case things haven't been totally solved yet. If you're confident the L + R channels match in behavior now which is close to C channel, then you probably can remove the test wires.
One thing that you might want to do is put a meter on each of the bias resistors, i.e. P501/P502 test pins, and ensure it doesn't go up to a few volts when you power up for the first time after installing the finals...if it does you need to shutdown right away and look for the problem... Do not use autoranging.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
Question for you Eccerr0r - when I put the finals in place (should get here tomorrow), do I leave the test wires I had put on Q506, Q518 and Q530? Also, should I replace all boards or test it with minimal boards?
I guess I should, but that means I will have to dissassemble it again if everything is ok, but I'd like to have your advice on this. Thanks!Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
very well, if both right and left match, reduce both to the lowest voltage and then put in the new transistors, and carefully monitor their temperatures as you power up. If they still get hot fast, shut off right away. If they don't get hot, go through the bias tuning in the service manual.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
very well, if both right and left match, reduce both to the lowest voltage and then put in the new transistors, and carefully monitor their temperatures as you power up. If they still get hot fast, shut off right away. If they don't get hot, go through the bias tuning in the service manual.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
Sorry again Eccerr0r, I just realised you asked for Q507 and Q508, and I wrongly assumed you meant the same as Q506 on the other channels, so I measured C-E of Q518 and C-E of Q530 and reported them as Q507 and Q508. I can't measure Q507 and Q508 because they are deep down under.
So what I just did is compare what I get on Q506 C-E when I change R522 to Q518 when I change R545 and get exactly the same readings i.e. 2.1V when turned completely clockwise which gives a resistance on R522 and R545 of 1.3K, and 2.75V when R522 and R545 are set like the good channel R571. When I measure C to E on the good channel, I get +2.9V.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
I think we're back to square 1, and still have more unknown issues unless you can properly adjust the spread via R522. Q506 C-E spread should be around 4.2V and adjustable by R522. The voltage drop across R5143 should be around 2.8V and finally the voltage drop across R520 should be around 1.4V, both of these should be likewise adjusted with R522. Just ensure that you can adjust these voltages, and then turn it down as low as possible before putting the new finals in. You should be able to hear that the audio sounds awful with harmonics and then as you increase the voltage it should start sounding less harsh and raspy, making it sound good once more. Of course you should ultimately follow the service manual's R522 adjustment by using P501.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
Ok, so Q507 gives me +2.78V and Q508 (good channel - center) +2.972V. Each side of R520, I get -0.244V and -0.156V.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
Well, worst case is you fry R520 but you should be able to go the full gamut like the other channels, but it shouldn't be able to get so high to do that if it were designed properly and no bad components. Well, if it matches the other channels now approximately it should be ok, just check the voltages at Q507/Q508 bases and the two ends of R520 to ensure the spread is less than what you see at Q506, then you're probably good to try reinserting finals.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
Eureka, with everything soldered right I get between E and C of Q506 +2.1V when R522 is at the 1.2K level (fully clockwise), +2.5V when at +- 0.800K level (about mid turn) and +2.75V when set like the other 2 channels...I didn't go over that just in case.
What do you think Eccerr0r ?Leave a comment:
-
Re: Help with blowing transistor NAD T752 receiver
Yeah I typoed that, good to always doublecheck any lies spewed on the internetLeave a comment:
-
Related Topics
Collapse
-
by CdDvdFlashFor this Dick Smith TV GE6878 (Thompson) I replaced the broken remote with a universal it kinda works though if its more than a few meters away sometimes the buttons register and sometimes they wont so I bought another remote from another brand and it has the same problem, I've had an old TV in the past that the sensor died completely and I replaced it to fix it could this be a similar problem? I tried looking for a service manual, spare parts for a receiver and a parts list but I couldnt find any info. can someone please help me to find the info online for a service manual or where I can buy...
-
by magnehHello
Got this speaker from a friend , defective. Power led comes on and off , in a loop.
Disassembled, got the board out, and after a bit of measuring I found a low resistance on a 5v6 line. With a bit of current I found a transistor heating up on that line (labeled T1 and 113 as on pic).
After removing this guy, I got a value of 0.7 in diode mode on that 5v6 line, which before had 0.02 or something like that.
I tested powering it up without the IC, and the speaker turns on and stays on, and works fine
Still, I need to replace this transistor.... -
by JayPoorJayHello All... Grateful for this site!
I just repaired a 70inch Sharp flat screen I found on the curb in NYC (there are 1000s) thanks to the good folks on this site
I have a question about an audio signal from a TV that only has a headphone jack as a audio output source. I have it hooked up now with a headphone style adapter that converts the headphone plug to an RCA. I plug this into my PHONO input on the receiver. To play it this way I need to turn volume waaaay down on TV and volume up higher than I think I should on the receiver. I get undertone hissy sound, blunt...-
Channel: Troubleshooting Audio Equipment
-
-
by sam_sam_samAbout a month ago we had a transformer jumper wire that burned in two different places between two transformers caused over $200 thousand dollars worth of damage to VFD drives at least 10 of them and a memory card and quite a few power supply as well
Now we have most of the equipment that got damaged back up and running except a feeder that has issues and we are waiting for some parts for
Now we also have another piece of equipment that was blowing fuses on the 110 volt controller switch circuit with the āEā stops and one switching power (24 volt) supply and a transformer... -
by r2digitalHello, i had this amp sitting in the closet knowing that none of the channels were working. After taking it all apart i found 4 bulging main filter caps so i went ahead and replaced those with low ESR kmet caps. However after doing this it only restored sound to Surround L, Surround R, and Center channel. The main speaker fuse on the transformer F905/F906 keeps blowing so i decided to remove all of the transistor's on those 4 channels and measure them. All transistors appear to be in good working order(turned receiver on with none of them installed and fuse still blows). Checked dual emitter resistors...
-
Channel: Troubleshooting Audio Equipment
-
- Loading...
- No more items.
Leave a comment: