Powers up with +32V AND -32V but no output.
Cannot find a schematic anywhere.
Help please
Tony
Cannot find a schematic anywhere.
Help please
Tony
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Re: Cambridge Audio Amplifier P25
Hi Tony I'm strictly hobbyist level, but I've managed a few successes with amps, CD players and DAB tuner. I looked out a P25 Mk11 I got YEARS ago not working. I thought I'd tried all permutations of inputs and knobs, but today after finding a couple of basic issues it burst into life with a beautiful sound through just a pair of Sony speakers from a 'stereo'! Previously I'd replaced the TL072 op amps and re-soldered a leg of C712 that seemed to have been missed originally. I am left however with probably the original fault where there's no output in the 'normal' setting but perfect in the 'direct'. The 5532 op amp shows a short through pins 5 and 6, but I assume (!!?) this would only affect the Phono input? I'm not sure how or if this relates to your post but just might prove yours isn't unique? Esp if you get the same result.....
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I have here a Cambbridge Audio Stream Magic 6 which does not power on.
When opening the case the PSU appears to be faulty:
IC1 (ICE3BR0665J), D2, the rectifier bridge, C15,C16 are dead and T2 is fried:
I found the schematics of the PSU in the cambridge Audio CXN Service guide which uses the same:
My problem is that I cannot find any info on T2 (SG01323) which seems to be a choke. Anyone knows how I can find a replacement & the value of that choke ?
Thanks very much in advance... -
The Problem: This player has a toggle switch to select between Stereo, Mono R, and Mono L. Regardless of the setting it outputs the sound to both the L&R audio jacks. In the Mono R position, the audio output level is normal (from both the L and R audio output jacks), in the Stereo position the audio output is about half the volume, and in Mono L, it's about 3/4 the volume. Something about putting it into Stereo mode is causing the volume to drop significantly and I can't figure it out.
The player processes the audio signal using two different reference frequencies. The "R"... -
I found a project in the electronics trash yesterday. A nice Argon SA1 audio amp with some electrical issue. Took it apart and saw that the 4A250V fuse was blown so started lifting components to find the short. Eventually got to two MOSFETs (model FTA14N50C) that are shorted and when i took them out the short was gone.
Now i didn't have any replacements of the same model of course but i found a couple with pretty similar spec i thought (K10A60D & K12A50D) and put them in. Also replaced the blown fuse with a 3.5A250V one. Checked another time for short circuit and plugged it in.... -
My boss always says "the only stupid question is the one not asked" so at the risk of asking a stupid/obvious question I'm going to one any way...
I've got a pair of speakers with an amp built in to them in for repair and on inspection I can see the TDA2030A amplifier ICs have blown (so I've ordered some spares which should arrive soon):
My quesion is with regards to the white paste you can see on the TDA2030A and heatsink, I'm assuming this is just some thermal paste and if so is it a special kind or will the grey thermal compound that I have... -
Hi All. I had a Roland KR-3500 Digital Piano (similar to the KR-4500) that exhibited a Crackling audio sound on all keys. After reading somewhere about someone with a similar issue who had replaced all the Electrolytic caps I decided to also go down that route. (Spoiler : It worked !) After some basic troubleshooting I determined that it could be noise feeding thru from the Keyboard scanning since the Demo tunes played back undistorted and the Audio amp / speakers were fine ( Inserted an Audio signal into the rear Audio input). After extracting the main board from the shield, I replaced 7 Capacitors...04-30-2024, 08:20 PM
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