the original fuse has not yet arrived, and I don't have a classic fuse with that amperage to be able to test, if I try with a 2.0 ampere one, can I do some damage?
i don't know should i look, in case it would be better by 1 amp?
The bad fuse is rated at 3/4A so using 1A fuse is close enough, 2A will be too high in case we may have active shorts when does not show up when we did the static test on those power supply test points.
So get 1A fuse to try.
The bad fuse is rated at 3/4A so using 1A fuse is close enough, 2A will be too high in case we may have active shorts when does not show up when we did the static test on those power supply test points.
So get 1A fuse to try.
I put the fuse he indicated to me and everything seems ok, the receiver has been on for about an hour and shows no signs of problems, I tried with a non-original power supply, because its original supplies 19 volts instead of 13,5 as the label states and it worries me a little, do you advise me to buy a new original power supply?
Is'n this the power supply you are using? https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...8&d=1595935465
It is just a simple AC -DC power supply, non-regulated. It will put out 13VDC at 0.250A, at lower current draw the Voltage will be higher. You see 19V when there is no load connected, the output will also vary with the AC line Voltage.
If you want to be safe you can use AC-DC linear power supply that will regulate the output Voltage, you do not want to use Regulated switching power supply since it is noisy.
So when is the Voltage at the DC jack on the fuse when the unit is off (minimum load), is it still within the safe operating range of the unit?
As I told you I used another power supply for safety which is Ac / Dc 13.5 stabilized 800mA, and not the original one that is in the picture, I understood that the original power supply when it has no load delivers 19V, for the rest if could you explain me better why I did not understand, it is a bit difficult to understand when I use the translator thanks
As I told you I used another power supply for safety which is Ac / Dc 13.5 stabilized 800mA, and not the original one that is in the picture, I understood that the original power supply when it has no load delivers 19V, for the rest if could you explain me better why I did not understand, it is a bit difficult to understand when I use the translator thanks
Right now it is best for you to buy the original power supply that was made for this unit.
BTW, I did not see the picture of the 13V 800mA power supply you are using, I only see the Sennheiser one you show here. https://www.badcaps.net/forum/newrep...reply&p=977380
BTW, did you do this test in my post #50?
"So what is the Voltage at the DC jack on the fuse when the unit is off (minimum load), is it still within the safe operating range of the unit?"
What is the Voltage at the fuse (with ref. to Ground of course) when the unit is turned on?
According to the spec sheet of the unit, the operating Voltage range is from 10.5V to 16V.
So the bottom line is that when the unit is OFF (power supply will see little load) the Voltage at the fuse should not be higher than 16VDC, when the unit is turned on (power supply will see heavier load), the Voltage should not be below 10.50V.
So you are on the border line, 17V instead of 16V maximum per unit safe operating Voltage. That Voltage can go even higher that 17V if your AC line Voltage goes even higher.
I would get the correct power supply for the unit.
Is the original one expensive?
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