Customer unit. The customer shorted out a couple of outputs but can't remember which. Once I got it, fuse 402 was blown. I ran some tests, and couldn't find any issue other than the simple fuse. Replaced them with the same spec and with no external connections, it blew fuses 401 and 402. Can anyone give me a good starting point for further testing? I have attached the service manual with schematics.
Rotel RMB-1075 blows left front fuse
Collapse
X
-
Re: Rotel RMB-1075 blows left front fuse
This is a big amp. You will find lots of problems using resistance checks from the main rails to ground. Blown output stages can often take the whole power amp, so look beyond your output transistors.
Since it uses a conventional supply, you might benefit by using a variac. Fuses blow for a reason.
Interesting push-pull input circuit. What is the approximate date on this unit?Last edited by Longbow; 06-21-2016, 09:54 AM.Is it plugged in?Comment
-
Re: Rotel RMB-1075 blows left front fuse
This is a big amp. You will find lots of problems using resistance checks from the main rails to ground. Blown output stages can often take the whole power amp, so look beyond your output transistors.
Since it uses a conventional supply, you might benefit by using a variac. Fuses blow for a reason.
Interesting push-pull input circuit. What is the approximate date on this unit?You Can't Succeed Until You're Willing to FailComment
-
Re: Rotel RMB-1075 blows left front fuse
If fuse 401 and 402 blow, you have a fault in the power amp that is connected to P4 & N4 Left front (last power amp on the last page) If you don't have a shorted output or open emiter resistor, the you could have either a shorted or leaky driver transistor in that circuit.
Those fuses supply the L.F. amp and if they blow then your fault is too much current draw through the fuse, You could try compairing resistances between the L.F. amp section and the Center amp section at the top of that page (3** component markings)
Without a variac it could be hard to troubleshoot, what I would do is slowly turn up the variac while I checked the voltage at S4B to ground, It should be 0 volts, if its higher I would would also note if its positve or negative with respect to ground, then I would know what part of the circuit had the bad bias problem.
If the outputs and the .22 res. check ok then something before them is turning the output transistors on full. and that will take the B+ (or B-) supply to ground blowing the fuseLast edited by R_J; 06-21-2016, 07:32 PM.Comment
-
You Can't Succeed Until You're Willing to FailComment
-
Re: Rotel RMB-1075 blows left front fuse
If fuse 401 and 402 blow, you have a fault in the power amp that is connected to P4 & N4 Left front (last power amp on the last page) If you don't have a shorted output or open emiter resistor, the you could have either a shorted or leaky driver transistor in that circuit.
Those fuses supply the L.F. amp and if they blow then your fault is too much current draw through the fuse, You could try compairing resistances between the L.F. amp section and the Center amp section at the top of that page (3** component markings))You Can't Succeed Until You're Willing to FailComment
-
Re: Rotel RMB-1075 blows left front fuse
The fuses supply + and - voltage to each amp section, If a fuse is blowing then that amp section is at fault. follow the circuit. I thought you said the rest of the amp was working except for the channel that blew the fuse.Comment
-
Re: Rotel RMB-1075 blows left front fuse
Yes. Every other channel works. I have the new fuses on hand but I didn't want to risk damaging any other channels and also used the good fuses during testing. Also, being that the amp is getting some age to it, I decided to order the new style time delay BelFuses through Digikey. Figured i'd replace all at once as soon as I figure out the issue with channel 4Last edited by zacheriaj; 06-21-2016, 08:19 PM.You Can't Succeed Until You're Willing to FailComment
-
Re: Rotel RMB-1075 blows left front fuse
If fuse 401 and 402 blow, you have a fault in the power amp that is connected to P4 & N4 Left front (last power amp on the last page) If you don't have a shorted output or open emiter resistor, the you could have either a shorted or leaky driver transistor in that circuit.
Those fuses supply the L.F. amp and if they blow then your fault is too much current draw through the fuse, You could try compairing resistances between the L.F. amp section and the Center amp section at the top of that page (3** component markings)
Without a variac it could be hard to troubleshoot, what I would do is slowly turn up the variac while I checked the voltage at S4B to ground, It should be 0 volts, if its higher I would would also note if its positve or negative with respect to ground, then I would know what part of the circuit had the bad bias problem.
If the outputs and the .22 res. check ok then something before them is turning the output transistors on full. and that will take the B+ (or B-) supply to ground blowing the fuseYou Can't Succeed Until You're Willing to FailComment
-
Re: Rotel RMB-1075 blows left front fuse
At minimum, it is likely that R421 is open. Q414-17 are your outputs. I would spend some time calmly checking all the parts in that amp section including resistor values. Make sure VR401 does not show signs of burning. Good luck.Is it plugged in?Comment
-
Re: Rotel RMB-1075 blows left front fuse
VR401 is fine and shows no signs of stress. I found R425 toasted but everything else is testing ok. Now I have to find the values of the output transistors so I can order some. I think i have it in the parts list though.Last edited by zacheriaj; 06-22-2016, 11:12 AM.You Can't Succeed Until You're Willing to FailComment
-
Re: Rotel RMB-1075 blows left front fuse
http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...376376?k=A1492You Can't Succeed Until You're Willing to FailComment
-
Re: Rotel RMB-1075 blows left front fuse
I tested everything on the board. Driver transistors are ok. diodes are ok. The only other fault is the R425. Any idea how to find the value for replacement? I'm thinking it's either 33ohm or 330 ohm but no idea on the wattage.You Can't Succeed Until You're Willing to FailComment
-
Re: Rotel RMB-1075 blows left front fuse
It's a 33 ohm metal film, (see schematic) not seeing it I would guess 1/2 watt. measure the voltage drop accross the same resistor (any of these: R125, r126, R225, R226, R325, R326 ) in one of the working amp circuits, ohms law will give you the wattageLast edited by R_J; 06-22-2016, 10:33 PM.Comment
-
Re: Rotel RMB-1075 blows left front fuse
It's a 33 ohm metal film, (see schematic) not seeing it I would guess either 1/2 watt or maybe 1 watt . measure the voltage drop accross the same resistor (any of these: R125, r126, R225, R226, R325, R326 ) in one of the working amp circuits, ohms law will give you the wattageLast edited by zacheriaj; 06-22-2016, 10:28 PM.You Can't Succeed Until You're Willing to FailComment
Related Topics
Collapse
-
Hi, I'll start by saying that I'm not an expert and I've reached a point where I don't know what to try/do anymore...
Starting from the beginning: I opened this subwoofer for the first time with a very strong smell of burnt electrical components, I realize that on the amplifier board there is a hole between V+ OUT and GND about the size of a finger, the damaged components were the shorted mosfets, two damaged zener diodes and two capacitors. I bought everything, I fixed the hole by cutting the pcb and putting a piece of a perforated board.
I had no problems connecting mosfets and capacitors,...-
Channel: Troubleshooting Audio Equipment
08-27-2024, 12:46 PM -
-
by corrizeHello, I disassembled this dead camera, and found this WTF… Two fuses soldered one above the other !
I was pretty sure nobody touched it before, but that can't be from factory. There is flux, and capacitor is probably missing.
The other weird thing : the fuses are « G » fuse : (0.75A – 8V), seems very low. The original fuse should be « O » : (32V 2,5A).
There is « O » mark beside. All fuses have the same mark letter on main board. So, I can deduce it's a « O » fuse.
And this correspond to the issus I saw : when I plug the battery, I measure the voltage dropping... -
by dimis7Hi all,
Need some advice to troubleshoot this TV.
PSU blow the main fuse F100, 3.15A.
I replace the fuse with another 3A (but not ceramic) and blows it again after few seconds when i plugged in to the wall, with nothing connected to PSU, just the power cord.
I checked with DMM for dead sorts but didn't found any.
Checked bridge rectifier and seems ok.
Also check main filter cap with transistor / cap / esr tester (the usual cheap transistor testers from ebay) and found ok.
PSU p/n is EAX64405901 (1.6)... -
by jesteraceHi I wonder if anyone might be able to steer me in the right direction. I have this Samsung UE46ES8000 TV and it went bang during use. The main fuse on the PSU board is open. I've checked every diode/mosfet/transistor I can see and nothing appears to be short to cause the fuse to go. The DC output of the bridge rectifier is not short either. I've seen online that some of these models are known for having their PFC mosfet or other mosfets shorting and blowing the fuse but i'm not seeing that here. If anyone aware of these models having any issues to cause this? I'm reluctant to just replace the...
-
by jshhhHi guys,
I'm inexperienced with electronics repairs, I've done a little bit of soldering caps and whatnot, but i have a blown fuse on this mimaki printer I got which I have bought a replacement for.
How do I remove this type of fuse (see picture)...it kinda looks like it would pull out of that bracket but it didn't come at first pull and I didn't want to brute force it incase it's soldered on there like most of the rest of the components.
Anybody know how to remove this type of fuse?
(The fuse is toward the bottom of the image labeled F2)... - Loading...
- No more items.
Comment