Bear with me as this is getting interesting.
Not a lot as the saying goes but it may help someone to decide on throwing it in the landfill or rescuing it.
Symptom no go.
*******
WARNING THIS STUFF CAN BE FATAL IF WORKED ON LIVE. PLEASE DO NOT WORK ON THIS LIVE UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING
YOU NEED A GOOD VARIAC AND AN ISOLATING TRANSFORMER AND SKILLS. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE DONT TOUCH.
A LOT OF THIS CAN BE FAULT TRACED USING CONTINUITY METER ONLY.USE A 12V CAR BATTERY FOR THE MOTOR TEST WITH AN IN LINE FUSE. 10A.
I'LL RUN THROUGH THE CONTROL BOARD TEST AND TRY VARIOUS THINGS WITHOUT THE MAINS.
FAULT FIND THE TRIAC BOARD USNG A METER AND INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE WEB.
*********************
Top of the unit an intermittent led more of this later.
Disassemble unit and start to inspect.
Remove motor by unplugging connectors and removing triac board and main controller board.
Note triac board has btb16 600BW Triac Snubberless 16A 600v and 36txe01
bi metallic thermostat rated at 16A shut off normally closed 85 degrees c.
Check thermostat....wide open. Check triac short MT1 to MT2.
Measure pins on connector to motor. Blue /Black/Brown
Remove connector and measure between Blue[Neutral and Line Brown] 5.0 ohms....why triac short?
Remove vacuum rotor by removing nut clockwise and pulling off. Note where spacer and washer are located. Unscreww 4 screws AFTER making hacksaw cut to mark position of cover. Pull apart but armature rotor may come with it.
Watch the expander spacer washer under the bearing. Watch the brushes as they pull out. Remove the small plastic plug that holds the capacitor that is across the motor to neutral to suppress EMI. Open the capsule and push out little PCB. Mine had desoldered itself from the board. Resolder and reassemble motor. Check capacitance of cap . I measured around 196 nanos and should be 220n. Good enuff. Check resistance is approx 5 ohms and run motor up without triac attached using 12v power supply. All good then move on if problem not here. Use a car battery with a fuse if no stand alone power supply. I did a video here.
Desolder main pcb from plastic carrier.
At this juncture we have to discuss the circuit and connectivity so will pause here to upload some pictures.
Needless to say mine still does not work as i need to replace the triac and the bi metal switch. i could not find the original protector but found
thermorex-tk24-t02-mg01-o85-s75-bi-metallic-switch-250-v-16-a-opening-temp. I have no idea if i can make this fit but lets see as i might have to mod the pcb. So far Triac few pounds and switch the same.
If you have found dodgy components here then just replace the two items and re-assemble the machine. If not then meet you back here.
So with reference to the interwinding diagram note the power distribution.
The plastic plug interface pins are soldered to the main board which is connected to the triac board and then connect to the motor.
Not a lot as the saying goes but it may help someone to decide on throwing it in the landfill or rescuing it.
Symptom no go.
*******
WARNING THIS STUFF CAN BE FATAL IF WORKED ON LIVE. PLEASE DO NOT WORK ON THIS LIVE UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING
YOU NEED A GOOD VARIAC AND AN ISOLATING TRANSFORMER AND SKILLS. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE DONT TOUCH.
A LOT OF THIS CAN BE FAULT TRACED USING CONTINUITY METER ONLY.USE A 12V CAR BATTERY FOR THE MOTOR TEST WITH AN IN LINE FUSE. 10A.
I'LL RUN THROUGH THE CONTROL BOARD TEST AND TRY VARIOUS THINGS WITHOUT THE MAINS.
FAULT FIND THE TRIAC BOARD USNG A METER AND INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE WEB.
*********************
Top of the unit an intermittent led more of this later.
Disassemble unit and start to inspect.
Remove motor by unplugging connectors and removing triac board and main controller board.
Note triac board has btb16 600BW Triac Snubberless 16A 600v and 36txe01
bi metallic thermostat rated at 16A shut off normally closed 85 degrees c.
Check thermostat....wide open. Check triac short MT1 to MT2.
Measure pins on connector to motor. Blue /Black/Brown
Remove connector and measure between Blue[Neutral and Line Brown] 5.0 ohms....why triac short?
Remove vacuum rotor by removing nut clockwise and pulling off. Note where spacer and washer are located. Unscreww 4 screws AFTER making hacksaw cut to mark position of cover. Pull apart but armature rotor may come with it.
Watch the expander spacer washer under the bearing. Watch the brushes as they pull out. Remove the small plastic plug that holds the capacitor that is across the motor to neutral to suppress EMI. Open the capsule and push out little PCB. Mine had desoldered itself from the board. Resolder and reassemble motor. Check capacitance of cap . I measured around 196 nanos and should be 220n. Good enuff. Check resistance is approx 5 ohms and run motor up without triac attached using 12v power supply. All good then move on if problem not here. Use a car battery with a fuse if no stand alone power supply. I did a video here.
Desolder main pcb from plastic carrier.
At this juncture we have to discuss the circuit and connectivity so will pause here to upload some pictures.
Needless to say mine still does not work as i need to replace the triac and the bi metal switch. i could not find the original protector but found
thermorex-tk24-t02-mg01-o85-s75-bi-metallic-switch-250-v-16-a-opening-temp. I have no idea if i can make this fit but lets see as i might have to mod the pcb. So far Triac few pounds and switch the same.
If you have found dodgy components here then just replace the two items and re-assemble the machine. If not then meet you back here.

So with reference to the interwinding diagram note the power distribution.
The plastic plug interface pins are soldered to the main board which is connected to the triac board and then connect to the motor.
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