at 225 ohms i calculate about 250w .. but the resistance will change as it heats up so cant really calculate it easy
your tester knows what it is so its maybe good .
Blown heated blanker controller. Trying to figure out these smd resistors
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Blue/Brown = 225ohms
Black/white = 944ohms
Check the resistances of the blanket and compare it with the good one before you turn to the controller. Some blankets have a sense wire in addition to the heating one, and if that is damaged the controller responds by effectively committing suicide. The blown resistors may be a symptom of a dead blanket.
none
You see on bottom pcb trace signature, and on top is black package, combined with 220v heater what else could be...
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginn...=2302253;image
Thyristor... 2P4M
Op is lazy... (:-
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No heat-sink on it. No heat-sink on the working one either. Perhaps there meant to be & without one, it overheating causing as overload of some sort?Leave a comment:
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You see on bottom pcb trace signature, and on top is black package, combined with 220v heater what else could be...
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginn...=2302253;image
Thyristor... 2P4M
Op is lazy... (:
Leave a comment:
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There is a three pin triac near display, but when I see fault like this, where a few resistor disapear and where these was directly connected to controller... first disconnect that leg of ic, and see if you have diode junction reading to any other. Probably not, and thats is end of story designed to serve newnormal ideas of light green eco ic suicide.
It is sadly to say in this modern time - make your ovvn controler with discrete riggid parts which you can repair if you need.Leave a comment:
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Check the resistances of the blanket and compare it with the good one before you turn to the controller. Some blankets have a sense wire in addition to the heating one, and if that is damaged the controller responds by effectively committing suicide. The blown resistors may be a symptom of a dead blanket.Leave a comment:
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see what resistance between black and white and blue and brown .Leave a comment:
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f1 looks like a thermal fuse
the wonky display might not be helping thingsLeave a comment:
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i cant see any mains switching devices,
i'm wondering if the numbers are just a display rather than a control.
and if both fuses are good it may just be a shorted display chip
it looks like it has a big switch so maybe it just has full power and half power (half wave rectified) to the heater
The big (0-1) switch is on/off. The temperature & timer go up to 9 I think via the soft-press gray buttons
here is a different repair on the same controller . https://jestineyong.com/homemaker-el...ow-rug-repair/
and here is a pic of how it looks on the front .
​Leave a comment:
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here is a different repair on the same controller . https://jestineyong.com/homemaker-el...ow-rug-repair/
and here is a pic of how it looks on the front .
Leave a comment:
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i cant see any mains switching devices,
i'm wondering if the numbers are just a display rather than a control.
and if both fuses are good it may just be a shorted display chip
it looks like it has a big switch so maybe it just has full power and half power (half wave rectified) to the heater
Leave a comment:
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OP said it was likely a short between mains and the thermistor, he binned it.Leave a comment:
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