I guys a friend of mine gives to me this thing, he said it's a machine to create ice. However it going on protection mode with led red (ice full) of course there's no ice, then I take the board control out and look it on the microscope, there are I rele blown up (A1) , (U5 it's like pwm) and other side of pcb there are two chip it looks not so good. My question is existing schematic for this pcb? Because if it's to expensive to repair of course is could be better to putting on the bin.. Thank you all for the answer 🙏
Thank you to the guys at HEGE supporting Badcaps [ HEGE ] [ HEGE DEX Chart ]
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Machine to make ice doesn't work
Collapse
X
-
Have you replaced relay?
Whats is input sensors, and what is outputs? I see for motor, valve, fan... whats else?
Is voltage on board ok? Optocoupers ok on both side?
Uln2003 is some driver I think for motor, SOC is microcontroler with firmware, do not mess around with it if it is not clear his fault.
What ir led? Maybe there is must be filled water in order to work.
Traceback what trigger red led, maybe some switch or so... search for missing signal, I dont know...Last edited by harp; 03-23-2024, 03:01 PM.
Comment
-
What model is the icemaker?
Check the board has DC power, could be 12VDC. This goes to IC3 LDO SOT-89 to power the MCU likely 5V. It seems to have power if the LED lights?
You can see the switched outputs:
One mains relay output for "compressor"
Two mains triac/opto outputs ("motor", "valve")
Two 12V DC output ("fan", "pump")
Ambient temperature sensor thermistor "CON6"
MCU inputs are on CON1:
Ice box temperature sensor comes in on CON1 pin 6.
Three others going in. Might be switches or LED's.
I would expect the (5) electrolytic capacitors to be a bit dead from the heat-the board is mounted at the condenser it looks like.
Look at the ice box temp sensor, it might be open circuit sometimes water, rust get them.
The switch to tell if the hopper is empty might be bad too.
Comment
-
Originally posted by harp View PostHave you replaced relay?
Whats is input sensors, and what is outputs? I see for motor, valve, fan... whats else?
Is voltage on board ok? Optocoupers ok on both side?
Uln2003 is some driver I think for motor, SOC is microcontroler with firmware, do not mess around with it if it is not clear his fault.
What ir led? Maybe there is must be filled water in order to work.
Traceback what trigger red led, maybe some switch or so... search for missing signal, I dont know...
Comment
-
Originally posted by redwire View PostWhat model is the icemaker?
Check the board has DC power, could be 12VDC. This goes to IC3 LDO SOT-89 to power the MCU likely 5V. It seems to have power if the LED lights?
You can see the switched outputs:
One mains relay output for "compressor"
Two mains triac/opto outputs ("motor", "valve")
Two 12V DC output ("fan", "pump")
Ambient temperature sensor thermistor "CON6"
MCU inputs are on CON1:
Ice box temperature sensor comes in on CON1 pin 6.
Three others going in. Might be switches or LED's.
I would expect the (5) electrolytic capacitors to be a bit dead from the heat-the board is mounted at the condenser it looks like.
Look at the ice box temp sensor, it might be open circuit sometimes water, rust get them.
The switch to tell if the hopper is empty might be bad too.
I have all the voltage there but after a press the bottom (start) in 5/10 second it stops .. Yea the capacitor are replaced already Two of them where a bit dead but I didn't find any problem , I test the other components out of the circuit (to be sure) , and they are okay, the sensor thermistor I don't know how to test.. I will check all of the camble , the pump, and hope to finding some strange things..Thank you
Comment
-
Thanks for adding the model number! The control board is better known as HZB-12A, WZB-16 as well as the GSN-Z1, GSN-Z6 Portable Icemaker.
There are five sensors:
1. Check the tray two microswitches, they do go bad or get squished.
Microswitch Ice Tray up (brown wire?)
Microswitch Ice Tray down (purple wire?) blue is common.
SS-5GL13-F
2. Water Level switch (I don't know whart it looks like)
3. Slotted optical-switch "Ice Full" 3-pin connector
4. Condenser Temp Sensor ptc thermistor
It should match the ohms reading on the CON6 ambient air temp sensor
Wild guess maybe 10kΩ or 50kΩ at room temp.
It must be time-out waiting for the hopper to go to home position? Or waiting for the hopper to fill up with water? But then the pump should run. The water pump is small 12V
Comment
-
Read this... maybe help
http://www.hallikainen.org/hzb-12b/
Antarctic Star HZB-12B Portable Automatic Ice Maker Repair
On attach are some troubleshooting from device manual but I dot understand wery well...Last edited by harp; 03-24-2024, 04:13 PM.
Comment
-
- The infrared sensor has an LED on one side of the area where the ice scoop pushes the ice into the ice basket and the sensor on the other. When the ice basket is full, the IR beam is interrupted. The system shuts down and the Ice Full LED lights. If the machine is in an area with a lot of sunlight, the IR sensor detects the sunlight and does not detect ice full. The system will keep making ice even when full. This could result in the ice making box getting jammed and parts breaking.
Last edited by petehall347; 03-24-2024, 04:34 PM.
Comment
-
Hello guys, Good news !!Finally i found the problem on the ( ird sensor led ) Look what I discovered, unbelievable!!!I already doing my best to fix it and everything works just fine!!I what to say thank you all of you for the right guidelines !! Im honoured to be part of this beautiful community!!!!I 👍💪6 Photos
Comment
Comment