Diamond Core Drill ELU SB43EK, Blown Capacitator

[capfiz]

Hi, new to this forum and new to most things electronic component related.

As in my introductory post, I'm good for soldering, fixing up the grandkids console games but that's about it.

I am based in the UK.

17 odd years ago I purchased an ELU diamond core drill, model ELU SB43EK, I had never heard on the brand here in the UK at the time but it has been a faithful tool and has undertaken a number of jobs without issue.

Last week it failed to start when depressing the trigger, initial checks, it wasn't the fuse or plug top, delving further and opening drill up I discovered a burnt/broken lead to what I think is a capacitator, See images.

If it is a capacitator I have not seen one with 3 leads presumably one is an earth lead.

The capacitor had a burnt smell and had black gunge all over it which I have cleaned up.

A look online and a Google image search came up empty and this component, as is the brand is no longer available from any spares tool UK outlet as far as I can tell. ( other then that the tool is in good working order ).

Where can I get this capacitor or a decent make do equivalent?

Existing capacitator is packed into the D handle tight so dimensions of any replacement will be a factor.

You can see for the schematic drawing outlined in red, the component did have 3 leads.

[stj]

it's a Delta-cap,
it's to suppress fr noise from the motor brushes.
it shouldnt stop the drill from working.
it's pretty much just 3 film caps that connect the 2 motor poles to ground - or in your case probably just the motor body.
because anything made after the 1970's usually has a plastic shell and no earth wire

[capfiz]

it's a Delta-cap,
it's to suppress fr noise from the motor brushes.
it shouldnt stop the drill from working.
it's pretty much just 3 film caps that connect the 2 motor poles to ground - or in your case probably just the motor body.
because anything made after the 1970's usually has a plastic shell and no earth wire

Thanks for the reply.

The broken lead at one end has a long ferrule that sits deep inside the motor body.

As the drill/plug top has no earth connection I to can't figure why a broken lead or bad cap' would prevent it from working if acting as an earth.

There might be another fault but on opening the handle it was the first obvious sign of an issue.

So now I'm wondering how best to replace the capacitator, what I should replace it with, like for like or alternative?

Could you give me an idea, suggestions or links.

Being based in the UK, it maybe a hard task sourcing, getting my hands on a replacement but I can make a start if I know what to look and where?

I have found this, would this do?

[stj]

check mains reaches the trigger switch.
and check power reaches the motor too - put a lamp across the motor wires - NOT led/cfl - a real lamp

[capfiz]

Delete....

[capfiz]

check mains reaches the trigger switch.
and check power reaches the motor too - put a lamp across the motor wires - NOT led/cfl - a real lamp

I have checked both, all ok, I 'm convinced its the Cap'.

[stj]

it doesnt need the cap though.
thats just so karens can still listen to radio4 while your drilling!

i suspect the cap failed before and something else has now failed.
unless one of the 3 caps in the case is shorted.
did you test the drill without it?
and did you check the brushes etc?

[capfiz]

it doesnt need the cap though.
thats just so karens can still listen to radio4 while your drilling!

i suspect the cap failed before and something else has now failed.
unless one of the 3 caps in the case is shorted.
did you test the drill without it?
and did you check the brushes etc?

What daughters or grandkids listening to radio 4 or just a radio, never, to busy their eyeballs glued to their cell phones, texting. 😀

I did test the drill without cap't no go.

I do suspect the cap has fused, even tho' I agree it shouldn't, matter but would like to replace.

Would the replacement Cap' image I posted, would that do?

[stj]

it is the same part - other than the brand
you need to check the brushes too - because i'm not buying the cap as the cause of no function

[capfiz]

it is the same part - other than the brand
you need to check the brushes too - because i'm not buying the cap as the cause of no function

I had a look at the brushes, they are quite worn, still a little meat on them, not much so will replace along with the cap'.

[redwire]

The X-cap across the brushes does lessen arcing and spikes to the speed control triac. With an open cap it might have then killed the speed control board?
Original cap manufacturer Iskra but they give no data for all the three cap values inside KPB7318

[stj]

original values are in the OP's picture

[redwire]

The lettering is rubbed off, smeared. It's 2 of Y2-cap 2,700pF and 1 of X1-cap at ?uF 275VAC. You could figure it out from the dimensions, guessing around 0.1-0.25uF.
The middle wire is GND for the Y-caps so that breaking off would make EMI high but should not have done anything to the speed controller unless the Y-cap shorted.