it's a chip - custom.
did you remove some resistors?
those chips only handle 1.4A, the board usually has some parallel resistors to limit the led current.
if your trying to fix it, you can bypass it for 100% or off - no multi-mode.
it's a chip - custom.
did you remove some resistors?
those chips only handle 1.4A, the board usually has some parallel resistors to limit the led current.
if your trying to fix it, you can bypass it for 100% or off - no multi-mode.
I have not removed anything from that circuit board ... thats all that was on there, those two components. I assume the little box is a resistor.
What do you mean by "100% or off - no multi-mode"?
It appears to be flashlight LED controller + MCU. Some IC's have linear constant-current control and others have buck converter to do that for higher efficiency.
My guess is YX8133A by shiningic but hell to translate. Replaced by YX8231B or YX8232B. I can't find much for SMD marking codes.
If you have an inductor stashed away somewhere, it is a buck-converter type.
a better question, is what is the pcb diameter and how badly do you want to fix it?
there are better boards on ali-express.
do you know the led type? Q5? T6?
The diameter of the PCB is exactly 20mm ... and I looked on the LED for ANY identifying markings, and I found none .... HOWEVER ... when I connect a 4.2 volt 18650 battery directly to the LED (no current limiting resistor at all), it lights up like an angel from heaven just popped in the room ... and it draws 1.5 amps which I feel is WAY TOO HOT to run that led ... but at least we know what it CAN do although it got hot so fast, I think it might burn out at that kind of continuous draw ... when I put a CC power supply on it at no more than 4.5 volts at 250ma its nice and bright..... if that tells you anything ...
well a Q5 is 350mA and a T6 is 700mA - assuming your not overdriving them.
if it has zoom or you have a magnifier,
a Q5 has 3 rectangular segments and a T6 has 6.
well a Q5 is 350mA and a T6 is 700mA - assuming your not overdriving them.
if it has zoom or you have a magnifier,
a Q5 has 3 rectangular segments and a T6 has 6.
seriously?
that's rare.
well they could be anything - .5w, 1w, or 3w
It took a fully charged 18650 like a champ and managed to source 1.4 amps from it ... damn near burning my skin before it ever fried, so it's a pretty decent LED ... What I really want to do with this thing is power it from a couple of 18650's at a respectable brightness - maybe 200ma .... with just an on / off feature, no blinking or any of that fancy stuff. I might just stick with the LMN317 constant current config ... seems to be reliable although maybe a little too lossy ...
It took a fully charged 18650 like a champ and managed to source 1.4 amps from it ... damn near burning my skin before it ever fried, so it's a pretty decent LED ... What I really want to do with this thing is power it from a couple of 18650's at a respectable brightness - maybe 200ma .... with just an on / off feature, no blinking or any of that fancy stuff. I might just stick with the LMN317 constant current config ... seems to be reliable although maybe a little too lossy ...
3.6V Voltage source feeding LM317 CC circuit to drive White LED (Vf of 3V @200aM) is not going to work because 317 has internal 1.25Vref, you will need more than 3.6V Voltage source.
Build it and take some data.
3.6V Voltage source feeding LM317 CC circuit to drive White LED (Vf of 3V @200aM) is not going to work because 317 has internal 1.25Vref, you will need more than 3.6V Voltage source.
Build it and take some data.
Thats why I was thinking of using TWO 18650's in series ... but what really bothers me about the LM317 option is all the waste ... id be recharging batteries too often ...
STJ suggested the AMC7135 ... it looks pretty tight ...
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