Re: LED power supply
Cheers Reecey.
The lights had been on for a couple of hours so i don't think it was a start up load issue.
LED power supply
Collapse
X
-
Re: LED power supply
I dont think so as the feedback circuit would adjust to what you lowered it too. Probably too much load on start up or something. Maybe get another and build a protection relay board so that the Psu starts then the relay does then the Leds ?Leave a comment:
-
Re: LED power supply
Yes, i put fresh on it when i recapped it. Does look like a generic China special, as there are no logos on it.
Has running this at a lower voltage shortened it's life or have i just been unlucky ?Leave a comment:
-
Re: LED power supply
Blown already wow did you have thermal paste on it ?Leave a comment:
-
-
Re: LED power supply
oh i see - it's across Q1
if Q1 looks o.k. maybe it couldnt handle the pulse-current.
is the small vertical driver board o.k.?Leave a comment:
-
Re: LED power supply
Would a better photo of the back help ?
Or do you mean what it was powering. Three 5 meter strings of LEDs. Well one wasn't quite 5m whih is why i had he voltage down a little.Last edited by diif; 02-09-2016, 07:29 AM.Leave a comment:
-
-
-
Re: LED power supply
The Chinese caps have now been replaced with FCs.
It was £12.99 for 200W. Maybe a bit overkill.Leave a comment:
-
Re: LED power supply
They are actually decent Stj you can get them off ebay for cheap. The chassis is the heatsink for the power devices.Leave a comment:
-
Re: LED power supply
now THAT is how a psu should be!
caps as far from the heatsink as possible.
i wouldnt be surprised if that ran for many years even with the chinese caps.Leave a comment:
-
-
Re: LED power supply
Probably is the issue, will link video to my set up:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JQjCOH1Robk
Upgrade of the Psu:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PXWJFNX2QBkLeave a comment:
-
Re: LED power supply
Ahhh, the LEDs are mounted onto PVC pipe at present. About 28c. Barely warm.
I've checked the specs of my power supply and its 10A so think the warm connector is due to to the cheap crapness of the banana jack plugged into it.
Thanks for the explanation mariushm.
The diode is marked MBR 30100 H90. There is thermal paste then an insulating sheet with a clamp pulling it onto a heastink.Last edited by diif; 01-23-2016, 05:17 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: LED power supply
The psu seems to be of decent construction, they use bridge rectifier, they use proper switch for 110/220v, proper Y capacitors for filtering, common mode choke and x capacitor for mains filtering..
The large capacitors aren't subjected to that high currents and ripple, they should last even though they're noname.
The secondary capacitors, feel free to change. You'll increase the reliability. Too bad there's no footprint for additional inductors.
The only other component that you may want to improve would be the D4 diode pack (higher current and voltage) but the one should be rated properly and work properly if it's attached to the case or heatsink.
The voltage pot is there to allow you to adjust the output voltage between something like 10.5v and 13.5v
Your led strips are basically a whole bunch of tiny sections of led strip, each section has a few leds (usually 3) and a resistor to limit the current.
For example, let's imagine 3 leds and a 150 ohm resistor. Assuming 3v drop per led, we have 12v - (3x3v) = I x R , so I = 3v / 150 ohm = 20 mA per led.
Of course, if you power the led strip from only one side, by the time the traces reach the last segments, there's going to be some voltage drop and the last segments will see less than 12v but the leds will still light up. If you want as uniform lightning as possible power the strip with 12v from both ends.
So with more voltage given to the strip, each section will light slightly brighter and the resistor will dissipate a bit more heat. Usually the differences are small.. I'd say just tweak the output to 12.3v or something like that, to account for the voltage drop on the cable between the psu and the strips.Leave a comment:
-
Re: LED power supply
I have a similar set up, I also use a similar Psu its normal for it to get hot you dont need a driver for those Leds either which is why they are in groups of 3 (4v per Led = 12v) Also yes replace them output caps cheap junk brand. Also make sure to heatsink them Leds ! They get very hot and will fail in no time flat.Leave a comment:
-
LED power supply
Hi Badcappers, I'm after some advice.
I've installed LED strip lighting in my office/workshop, it comes in 5m lengths and i've been powering it off my bench power supply. A 5m length is drawing 2.42A and when i had 10m attached in parallel i've noticed the outputs of my power supply get quite warm/hot.
I decided i needed a proper driver and bought a R-200-12 a 12v 16.5A LED power supply as it seemed as it would have some spare capacity.
Obviously i opened it up as the QC inspected sticker was already broken.
Dongbaohe and Twco caps inside, (i've never heard of Dongbaoe)
I was going to connect the wires from my ceiling light to the L N and earth and connect 3 or 4 5m lengths of the LED strip in parallel to the V+ and COM.
I guess the voltage pot is then adjusted to 12v ?
Am i correct in my way of connecting and setting this up.
Should i replace those caps ?
Thank you.Last edited by diif; 01-23-2016, 04:33 PM.Tags: None
Related Topics
Collapse
-
by sam_sam_samI have wanting to do this project for quite sometime now and I finally found a switching power supply that will work on this desoldering gun station ZD-915 that the original switching power supply took a shit and just was not worth trying to fix it because this switching power is not quite big enough to handle the heater element and the vacuum pump
One note when I tested the switching power supply and the voltage control board I noticed that this desoldering gun heat up much faster than the original switching power supply which I was really surprised by to the point that I might buy... -
by sam_sam_samI have been working on this concept for quite some time now with limited success but recently I found a switching power supply that is setup for the voltage that this soldering station needs to operate at however it also needs part of the secondary circuit from the original switching power because you need several voltage rails
I once tried to get a ZD-915 desoldering station to work on a 18 volt battery power supply but unfortunately things did not go well but I did find a work around but I might try this idea again but going at a little differently more about this another time... -
by JimBanvilleThe sub developed a constant popping every couple seconds from woofer and power LED flickering with nothing but wall AC connected. Connecting an audio cable didn't change anything. It doesn't play but a second or two of audio in between the pops.
Opened it up and discovered the power supply is making a faint clicking or ticking sound.
I measured the amp's output to the woofer and it pulses up to 50mv DC to be driver. The pulses coincide with the power supply ticking/clicking.
I measured the power supply output going to the amp board and it too has this pulsing. Voltage cycles...-
Channel: Troubleshooting Audio Equipment
-
-
Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?by Tynan DillI was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
Assuming...7 Photos -
by CMCMHello Everybody,
Trying to repair a power supply from a Russound CA4 Multizone Controller (picture attached)
Russound no longer supports it but were kind enough to provide a schematic of the power supply (pdf attached).
The outputs marked 12v and 20v are all measuring only 1v.
The board is clicking, which I think means it is in something called hiccup mode when the flyback transformers switches because of an internal problem or something else on the board Overloading it.
The capacitors physically look clean (no bludgesor leaks) and... - Loading...
- No more items.
Leave a comment: