Need help reading a schematic.

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

to find the best temps, look at the datasheets for the solder & flux.

Will do.

[stj]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

to find the best temps, look at the datasheets for the solder & flux.

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

10 boards down, two more to go!!!! Then I just need to find some solderable flat pieces of metal to attach them all together.

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

I tried the 590F (310C) and it worked but took a bit longer to melt the solder. Is there any dangers to using a higher temp? When I set it to 630F (332C), that seemed to work the best.

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

i use 310 for everything other than low-temperature soldering with 5% silver solder.

Thanks! I'll give it a shot later. I usually was using 600F for the soldering when I was using the silver stuff and then 650 when I was desoldering. I'll give the 590F (310C) a shot and see how well that works.

[stj]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

i use 310 for everything other than low-temperature soldering with 5% silver solder.

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

343' seems high, i solder at 310' with lead-free solder.

So 310 celsuis would be what? 590 F, right? I'll lower it to 590 F and see how that works. I had it set a bit high for desoldering and just never set it back. Thanks!

[stj]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

Thanks! Like these? http://www.all-spec.com/products/801...FUgXHwodAlwOoA

that's the type.

[stj]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

I just burned myself on this Weller! It's the first time on this iron! 650 degrees F (around 343 C). It left a nice white mark on my finger where the iron touched. It's about 1/4" (6 - 7 mm) long. Boy does it hurt!

343' seems high, i solder at 310' with lead-free solder.

[keeney123]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

I've seen this method done in videos but when I try I mess up horrible! I tip my hat to anyone that can do it that way. It's simply amazing! My hands shake pretty bad sometimes. Usually it isn't that noticeable until I work on smaller stuff. That makes it a bit harder. Eye sight isn't great either so I usually use a magnifying glass while I'm soldering.

I did not know that. Anyway, you found a way that works for you and there is nothing wrong with that.

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

I just burned myself on this Weller! It's the first time on this iron! 650 degrees F (around 343 C). It left a nice white mark on my finger where the iron touched. It's about 1/4" (6 - 7 mm) long. Boy does it hurt!

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

Thanks! Like these? http://www.all-spec.com/products/801...FUgXHwodAlwOoA

I'm currently uses these from Radio Shack:
https://www.radioshack.com/products/...ant=5717833157

They're okay for cutting wires but for leads, they just more or less smush the metal. Maybe it's because they're not sharp enough?

[stj]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

cant find a good foto, but you want a pair where the blade is ground on the inside only.

they are usually called "flush cutters"

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

your cutters are making that look, get a pair with a flush-blade on the outer edge.

factory's used to use a saw to trim all the leads years ago,
now the leads are pre-cut before they are auto-inserted.

you can see this with some of the ebay chinese cap sellers who are selling surplus from production-lines.

Okay. Could you link me to the type of cutters you're talking about? Thanks!

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

So with the needle and the flux it is easy to use. Just small amount on the pad and solder. With the right tip on the iron one just puts some solder in the tip and just pull it down on the edge of the component leg. One pin after another without stopping. Just add a little solder when it get used up. If for some reason a solder short appears then apply flux and heat up. The solder will go to the pads. A good solder joint on Surface Mount will be on the outside edges of the leg of the component. So it will be from the edge of the component leg to the pad on three sides of the component leg. This is easily accomplish with a hoofer tip or a bent beveled tip that is about the size of the leg being solder. Should be able to solder a 14 pin IC in a matter of seconds.

I've seen this method done in videos but when I try I mess up horrible! I tip my hat to anyone that can do it that way. It's simply amazing! My hands shake pretty bad sometimes. Usually it isn't that noticeable until I work on smaller stuff. That makes it a bit harder. Eye sight isn't great either so I usually use a magnifying glass while I'm soldering.

[stj]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

On a side note, when I clip the leads off the through-hole UV LEDs, the wire snippers I use cut the leads leave them a bit smushy looking. They definitely don't look like a professionally done PCB. Is there a better way to cut these leads? How do they do it at the factories?

your cutters are making that look, get a pair with a flush-blade on the outer edge.

factory's used to use a saw to trim all the leads years ago,
now the leads are pre-cut before they are auto-inserted.

you can see this with some of the ebay chinese cap sellers who are selling surplus from production-lines.

[keeney123]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

So with the needle and the flux it is easy to use. Just small amount on the pad and solder. With the right tip on the iron one just puts some solder in the tip and just pull it down on the edge of the component leg. One pin after another without stopping. Just add a little solder when it get used up. If for some reason a solder short appears then apply flux and heat up. The solder will go to the pads. A good solder joint on Surface Mount will be on the outside edges of the leg of the component. So it will be from the edge of the component leg to the pad on three sides of the component leg. This is easily accomplish with a hoofer tip or a bent beveled tip that is about the size of the leg being solder. Should be able to solder a 14 pin IC in a matter of seconds.

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

Man, I had a scare! Took me a bit to figure it out. Soldered all the UV LEDs on the board and one whole column (four UV LEDs) didn't light up at all! I thought for sure it was the trace. I went through and touched a soldering iron to each one, hoping it was a cold solder joint or something. No go. I looked at the schematic and board layout and studied how the lights were actually ran for those four non-working UV LEDs.

Then I went back in the work room and tried putting the ground on my PSU to the ground lead on one of the non-working UV LEDs. This got most of them working, except one. But the three that lit up weren't very bright. I started looking at the one that wasn't lit up and realized I put it in backwards! If I had cut the leads off the LEDs before testing it, I probably wouldn't of figured this out as easy like! Works like a charm now.

I went back through and checked the other two boards that I had already finished to make sure all of them actually lit up. One of them is different though. I even remember when I soldering, one UV LED had much longer leads. I want to say it's the same UV LED. It looks like maybe someone else made it. All the other ones glow the same colour but this one is much deeper in colour. Would this make a difference when I go to transfer the picture to the PCBs? Should I replace it with another UV LED? Thanks!

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

So the power supply powers the UV Exposure Time circuit board, which powers the UV LEDs. The power supply should have a fuse in it I'm thinking but is it possible that the power supply would break in such a way where it could fry the exposure time circuit board? Would it be a good idea to add a fuse to that circuit board or don't power supplies usually break like that?

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Need help reading a schematic.

pretty good,

Thanks! First time I've successfully used the hot air rework station to actually solder something. It's great for removing stuff. Glad I didn't have much problems.

On a side note, when I clip the leads off the through-hole UV LEDs, the wire snippers I use cut the leads leave them a bit smushy looking. They definitely don't look like a professionally done PCB. Is there a better way to cut these leads? How do they do it at the factories?