Need help reading a schematic.

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • stj
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    manual for your learning.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    you must have a lot of space!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Spork Schivago
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    I want this one! http://elaut.com/amusement/Belgium/g...cketCircus.php

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    some of the best come from here:
    http://elaut.com/amusement/Belgium/index.php

    Leave a comment:


  • Spork Schivago
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    Originally posted by stj
    probably he didnt know how to control it so he just screwed it up and then fixed it after it became obvious.
    Yeah. I know some of the people that worked there (I believe it was family owned / operated) didn't speak English at all. So it's very possible the family member in charge of the Crane Machine couldn't read the english instructions on how to set the odds. Thanks for pointing out the PSI thing. That was a nice read and something I didn't know!

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    probably he didnt know how to control it so he just screwed it up and then fixed it after it became obvious.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spork Schivago
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    I understand about the electromagnet thing. I read an article about that. Some state regulation or something. Some states, they're supposed to have odds of one out of twelve, other states, one out of fifteen. I guess they have 4-6 PSI on normal tries, it takes around 10 PSI to grab a toy. On the nth time, the PSI increases. If they don't win on an increased PSI try, the odds get better or something. But in this laundromat, the actual arm had screws. I would go in and win on a regular basis. One day, I went in, and the owner or someone actually loosened the screws so the arms where wobbly. There were cameras and everything. I played once, noticed how loose it was, I shook my head and stopped playing. When ever I won, I'd just leave the toy on the counter for children. A week or so later, I came back, they were tightened again. It could've been that he didn't know how to program the control system or it could also be that the screws just came loose on their own.

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    it's not screws.
    the grabber uses an electromagnet, the control system regulates win's by varying the current to the magnet.

    early systems just had a "power" control.
    newer ones monitor wins over time and make it harder as people win, and make it easier over time when people dont win.

    the idea is that if people never see a win they wont play, but at the same time you dont want it being emptied.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spork Schivago
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    Originally posted by stj
    everything in fairgrounds is "regulated" in one way or another.
    if you think that's bad, you should see how the cranes work!!!
    i'll give you a hint - they are intelligent and can regulate the chance of winning.
    some even network to a remote terminal in groups!
    The crane we have around here, down at Wegmans is pretty decent. My wife wins just about every time she plays. She always tries giving the stuffed animals to near by children. I see one machine when I lived a good 100 miles away though, they freaking loosened the screws so it wouldn't grab properly. They got this game called Barber Cut or something like that, that's rigged. Light House is another rigged one.

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    everything in fairgrounds is "regulated" in one way or another.
    if you think that's bad, you should see how the cranes work!!!
    i'll give you a hint - they are intelligent and can regulate the chance of winning.
    some even network to a remote terminal in groups!

    Leave a comment:


  • Spork Schivago
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    Originally posted by stj
    pushers are large beasts - and they are rigged.

    if you look real close, there is a tiny lip on the edge of the bed so the coins get pushed to the side as they hit the edge.

    now if you look over the edge, you will see that coins that drop at the outer-edges of the shelf go to the cashbox, not the collection tray.

    if you really want one, keep an eye on fairgrounds and such, they go real cheap when these places upgrade.
    <Gasp> I didn't realize they were rigged! Man, I spent so much money on that game when I was kid. Only played it twice or so, at some fair ground, but I spent like 25$ each time on it in quarters. Maybe I should try to make one some time, one that isn't so rigged, just to give people a better chance of winning. I'd mostly have it just for fun.

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    pushers are large beasts - and they are rigged.

    if you look real close, there is a tiny lip on the edge of the bed so the coins get pushed to the side as they hit the edge.

    now if you look over the edge, you will see that coins that drop at the outer-edges of the shelf go to the cashbox, not the collection tray.

    if you really want one, keep an eye on fairgrounds and such, they go real cheap when these places upgrade.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spork Schivago
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    Originally posted by stj
    keep your eyes on ebay, loads of arcade machines there.
    i'm not a fan of mame arcade cabs, they arent acurate.
    Agreed. I check e-Bay once in awhile but the good ones are over a grand usually! I saw some TV show, maybe a pawn shop one or a restoration one, and they were selling a guy a Ms. PacMan arcade machine. He came to look at it, to give the guys lots of money, then he realized the cab wasn't even painted. They just used decals for it. I'd be afraid of something like that happening to me.

    Craigslist has some for like 400$ once in awhile. Might try to pick one up there. There's another machine I've been looking for for years but I can't find the right one. It's a coin pusher / shooter. You use quarters and when you put one in, the quarter goes down on a table. There's a bar that pushes the quarters and when your quarter goes down, if the pusher bar pushes any quarters off, you get to keep the quarters. The one I want has an arm where you put the quarter though. You move the little bar that the quarter rolls down, to where ever you want, and put the quarter in when you're ready (or maybe you put the quarter in, move it around and then pull a trigger when you're ready). The arm that you move is by your waist. I played one like that a few times when I was younger but can only find the newer models. Boy would I love one of those things.

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    keep your eyes on ebay, loads of arcade machines there.
    i'm not a fan of mame arcade cabs, they arent acurate.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spork Schivago
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    Thanks. I've seen custom built arcade machines that run off of MAME. I always wanted to own an original coin-operated arcade. One where the coin slot still worked. They're always a bit too expensive though, at least the good ones. I wouldn't mind something like Ikari Warriors or some fighting game. At a local comic book, they had a broken arcade, it was four player. It was X-Men I believe and looked like this: http://cdn.pastemagazine.com/www/blo...n%20arcade.jpg

    I asked the guy if he'd sell it, he said it wasn't his. It was his buddy's and he was just storing it there. I asked if he could ask his buddy if he wanted to sell it and he said other people have asked him and it's always a no. I thought a broken one might not of been that hard to fix, if it was the circuit board, and I might of gotten it fairly cheap. I don't really want one running an emulator or anything. I'd like an original, used in the arcade, type of machines. Also, I'd love to get a pinball machine some time.

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    http://www.mamedev.com/downloader.ph.../mame0167s.zip

    that has everything you could ask for.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spork Schivago
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    Originally posted by stj
    it's actually used in the nintendo VS arcade system - never trust wakypedia.
    Stj, I agree that wikipedia isn't the best source for information. I always try to verify by looking at the source. I think the reason they listed the Punch Out Arcade is because it's special. I believe what they're talking about is that it actually had 2 single channel amps to produce different sounds from the left and right speaker. They used the Ricoh 2A03 for that setup I believe. I believe it had the Zilog Z80 for the main CPU. The 2A03 was just for sound I think. Might be wrong there though, having trouble finding the info on the technical specs.

    Can you confirm my information on the Punch-Out arcade?
    Last edited by Spork Schivago; 11-19-2015, 11:39 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    it's actually used in the nintendo VS arcade system - never trust wakypedia.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spork Schivago
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    Originally posted by keeney123
    Thanks for that info. I came across this Processor in a plug-in board that an Apple computer used in 1986. I believe at the time the board and the software was consider the driver.
    Here's a little more info. This is what Wikipedia has to say about the 2A03...

    Ricoh 2A03
    The Ricoh 2A03 or RP2A03 (NTSC version) / Ricoh 2A07 or RP2A07 (PAL version) is the 8-bit microprocessor in the Nintendo Entertainment System video game console manufactured by Ricoh. It contained a second source MOS Technology 6502 core, lacking the 6502's binary-coded decimal mode, with 22 memory-mapped I/O registers that controlled an APU, rudimentary DMA, and game controller polling.[1] It was also used as a sound chip and secondary CPU by Nintendo's arcade game Punch-Out!!

    Regional variations
    European and Australian versions of the NES used the Ricoh 2A07 or RP2A07 processor, which was identical to the 2A03 except for a different clock divider and the 50 Hz vertical refresh rate used in the PAL television standard.

    Leave a comment:


  • keeney123
    replied
    Re: Need help reading a schematic.

    Originally posted by Spork Schivago
    Technically, I think the CPU the NES uses is a Ricoh 2A03. I believe it's just a modified version of the MOS 6502.

    Originally, MOS developed it then Commadore bought it and sourced it to Rockwell and Synertek. After that though, a few other companies got access to it. I don't know who though. Chuck Peddle's team at MOS developed it.
    Thanks for that info. I came across this Processor in a plug-in board that an Apple computer used in 1986. I believe at the time the board and the software was consider the driver.

    Leave a comment:

Related Topics

Collapse

  • waigy
    Variable resistor potentiometer has different reading when mounted on the board
    by waigy
    In my fusion FE-402 car amplifier the gain pot is an RK097G.
    I think it is anyway, the RK097G is the closest I've found to the original with the same pin number and dimensions.
    The differences are my pot is blue and has B203 on it and the shaft is plastic with a small slot at the very end only.
    I measured the resistance and found it went from 0 up to 10k so I ordered a 10k pot.
    I then took the pot out the board and it now measured 22k.
    I tried putting it back in the board and it goes back to 10k.
    Is this normal and if so what pot should I order?
    On this...
    11-12-2024, 04:44 AM
  • DeanWy
    WD Sentinel DS5100 (NAS) boot issues
    by DeanWy
    Hi all,

    I have a Western Digital Sentinel DS5100 NAS system which has stopped working. It has dual BIOS. I bought the system second hand with an already broken primary BIOS (it rebooted multiple times until second BIOS was used).

    It worked until recently. The system was idle in Windows Server 2012 and a BSOD occurred, I think it was 'critical process died'. Thereafter it didn't boot, it just sat there with no video output and fan speed at 100% (there's a proprietary Windows driver by WD which controls the fan, outside of that it always runs at 100%).

    There...
    07-30-2024, 04:13 AM
  • gjgib
    Help reading schematic voltages input/output
    by gjgib
    Hello, this might be embarassing since I consider it a dumb question but keeps me kinda stuck sometimes in my journey.

    I want to know if there is any post in this forum which explains my questions. A) When, where and how do I know when X voltage line is input or output. Example:


    I'm battling with this IC to understand it's voltages. It's from non-turning-on Lenovo Ideapad 3 15iil05 - NM-D461.

    I see some lines like +5VL / +5VALW / V9B+ / +3VALW being okay and some others like 1.8VALW / +0.6VS / +2.5V_DDR. I just know that some of them are bad or missing,...
    05-06-2024, 08:11 PM
  • TinkerTron
    Schematic vs. Reality: Where Are the Resistors on My Sharp Clock Radio? Model FY-70CH
    by TinkerTron
    Hey everyone,

    I'm currently working on a mid-70s Sharp Electronic Digital Clock Radio, Model FY-70CH. I found the service manual online, printed it out, and have been studying it for a while. My main reasons for tackling this are: (1) I want to learn electronics and figured I'd start with something I had on hand, and (2) I want to fix its issues. Right now, the radio sounds awful, has about 5V DC at the speaker terminals, and the alarm time setting doesn't work. But I'm not asking how to fix these problems.

    Instead, here's what's been bugging me so far:
    The schematic...
    03-06-2025, 02:03 PM
  • atunguyd
    Acer x163w Monitor PSU schematic
    by atunguyd
    Ii wonder if anyone can help me. I have a Acer x163w monitor which is not powering up. The PSU main capacitor's one leg had completly come off - I replaced it but the PSU is still not outputting DC. I found the monitor in questions service manual here on manuals lib but the schematic in there is a completely different - the schematic shows no mosfet to drive the transformer while the one I have does use a mosfet - also the schematic shows only one optocoupler but mine has two.
    The PSU board is labelled FM-20A02-AAA made by APD as per the image below. I am trying to find a schematic for this...
    03-05-2025, 02:08 PM
  • Loading...
  • No more items.
Working...