Re: Need help reading a schematic.
manual for your learning.
Need help reading a schematic.
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
I want this one! http://elaut.com/amusement/Belgium/g...cketCircus.phpLeave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
some of the best come from here:
http://elaut.com/amusement/Belgium/index.phpLeave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
Yeah. I know some of the people that worked there (I believe it was family owned / operated) didn't speak English at all. So it's very possible the family member in charge of the Crane Machine couldn't read the english instructions on how to set the odds. Thanks for pointing out the PSI thing. That was a nice read and something I didn't know!Leave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
probably he didnt know how to control it so he just screwed it up and then fixed it after it became obvious.Leave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
I understand about the electromagnet thing. I read an article about that. Some state regulation or something. Some states, they're supposed to have odds of one out of twelve, other states, one out of fifteen. I guess they have 4-6 PSI on normal tries, it takes around 10 PSI to grab a toy. On the nth time, the PSI increases. If they don't win on an increased PSI try, the odds get better or something. But in this laundromat, the actual arm had screws. I would go in and win on a regular basis. One day, I went in, and the owner or someone actually loosened the screws so the arms where wobbly. There were cameras and everything. I played once, noticed how loose it was, I shook my head and stopped playing. When ever I won, I'd just leave the toy on the counter for children. A week or so later, I came back, they were tightened again. It could've been that he didn't know how to program the control system or it could also be that the screws just came loose on their own.Leave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
it's not screws.
the grabber uses an electromagnet, the control system regulates win's by varying the current to the magnet.
early systems just had a "power" control.
newer ones monitor wins over time and make it harder as people win, and make it easier over time when people dont win.
the idea is that if people never see a win they wont play, but at the same time you dont want it being emptied.Leave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
The crane we have around here, down at Wegmans is pretty decent. My wife wins just about every time she plays. She always tries giving the stuffed animals to near by children. I see one machine when I lived a good 100 miles away though, they freaking loosened the screws so it wouldn't grab properly. They got this game called Barber Cut or something like that, that's rigged. Light House is another rigged one.Leave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
everything in fairgrounds is "regulated" in one way or another.
if you think that's bad, you should see how the cranes work!!!
i'll give you a hint - they are intelligent and can regulate the chance of winning.
some even network to a remote terminal in groups!Leave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
pushers are large beasts - and they are rigged.
if you look real close, there is a tiny lip on the edge of the bed so the coins get pushed to the side as they hit the edge.
now if you look over the edge, you will see that coins that drop at the outer-edges of the shelf go to the cashbox, not the collection tray.
if you really want one, keep an eye on fairgrounds and such, they go real cheap when these places upgrade.Leave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
pushers are large beasts - and they are rigged.
if you look real close, there is a tiny lip on the edge of the bed so the coins get pushed to the side as they hit the edge.
now if you look over the edge, you will see that coins that drop at the outer-edges of the shelf go to the cashbox, not the collection tray.
if you really want one, keep an eye on fairgrounds and such, they go real cheap when these places upgrade.Leave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
Craigslist has some for like 400$ once in awhile. Might try to pick one up there. There's another machine I've been looking for for years but I can't find the right one. It's a coin pusher / shooter. You use quarters and when you put one in, the quarter goes down on a table. There's a bar that pushes the quarters and when your quarter goes down, if the pusher bar pushes any quarters off, you get to keep the quarters. The one I want has an arm where you put the quarter though. You move the little bar that the quarter rolls down, to where ever you want, and put the quarter in when you're ready (or maybe you put the quarter in, move it around and then pull a trigger when you're ready). The arm that you move is by your waist. I played one like that a few times when I was younger but can only find the newer models. Boy would I love one of those things.Leave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
keep your eyes on ebay, loads of arcade machines there.
i'm not a fan of mame arcade cabs, they arent acurate.Leave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
Thanks. I've seen custom built arcade machines that run off of MAME. I always wanted to own an original coin-operated arcade. One where the coin slot still worked. They're always a bit too expensive though, at least the good ones. I wouldn't mind something like Ikari Warriors or some fighting game. At a local comic book, they had a broken arcade, it was four player. It was X-Men I believe and looked like this: http://cdn.pastemagazine.com/www/blo...n%20arcade.jpg
I asked the guy if he'd sell it, he said it wasn't his. It was his buddy's and he was just storing it there. I asked if he could ask his buddy if he wanted to sell it and he said other people have asked him and it's always a no. I thought a broken one might not of been that hard to fix, if it was the circuit board, and I might of gotten it fairly cheap. I don't really want one running an emulator or anything. I'd like an original, used in the arcade, type of machines. Also, I'd love to get a pinball machine some time.Leave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
http://www.mamedev.com/downloader.ph.../mame0167s.zip
that has everything you could ask for.Leave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
Can you confirm my information on the Punch-Out arcade?Last edited by Spork Schivago; 11-19-2015, 11:39 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
it's actually used in the nintendo VS arcade system - never trust wakypedia.Leave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
Ricoh 2A03
The Ricoh 2A03 or RP2A03 (NTSC version) / Ricoh 2A07 or RP2A07 (PAL version) is the 8-bit microprocessor in the Nintendo Entertainment System video game console manufactured by Ricoh. It contained a second source MOS Technology 6502 core, lacking the 6502's binary-coded decimal mode, with 22 memory-mapped I/O registers that controlled an APU, rudimentary DMA, and game controller polling.[1] It was also used as a sound chip and secondary CPU by Nintendo's arcade game Punch-Out!!
Regional variations
European and Australian versions of the NES used the Ricoh 2A07 or RP2A07 processor, which was identical to the 2A03 except for a different clock divider and the 50 Hz vertical refresh rate used in the PAL television standard.Leave a comment:
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Re: Need help reading a schematic.
Technically, I think the CPU the NES uses is a Ricoh 2A03. I believe it's just a modified version of the MOS 6502.
Originally, MOS developed it then Commadore bought it and sourced it to Rockwell and Synertek. After that though, a few other companies got access to it. I don't know who though. Chuck Peddle's team at MOS developed it.Leave a comment:
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