time to buy a solder station have been looking for used they dont show up on cl or pawn shops around here. i did find a well used 951 on ebay for 150. looks like it was used by employees of some sort, so it probably has alot of hours on it but the tip selection is much wider into some chips. a new 888d from hakko usa is 108 and new but less features. im using tvs as a fun way to learn electronics which will help tons with working with new cars and some day electric cars.i dont really know what to look for, and i respect the opinions around here. also how do i tell a fake from a real unit? thank you for any replys.
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Re: hakko fx-888d vs used fx-951
the circuit specialists black jack series looks alright too. being a mechanic i have had best luck with name brands but dont know electronics tools or how to edit yet. sorry about that -
Re: hakko fx-888d vs used fx-951
my next iron will be a chinese 951 clone,
the tips are just as good as originals and dirt cheap.
just dont by the 2 part handle - the chinese improved the design.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311177745256
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271730739685
the reason the controller is cheap should be obvious from the foto's
the buttons are on the wrong side of the pcb because it was designed to have the display on a cable not sandwitched above the main pcb.
an easy fix.Comment
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Re: hakko fx-888d vs used fx-951
Chinese ripoffs are OK, but a real one is always better..."Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHornComment
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Re: hakko fx-888d vs used fx-951
not the handle, the one in my link is better than the hakko 2 part one.
it may be true that a chinese handle with a hakko tip will be better - just a little.Comment
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Re: hakko fx-888d vs used fx-951
The FX-951's have the heating element integral with the tip, so new tips are expensive but heat is excellent. Hakko has a better offering of (FX-951) fine SMD tips available but expensive to get one that isn't really what you wanted.
The FX-888D is great but the tips are larger, so not as good at fine SMD soldering and the handle is bigger.
I've used both, and they are excellent stations either way.Comment
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Hi,
I was using a Singway 120-240V < > voltage convertor from Ebay but it was not good enough, it popped and the fuse in the Hakko blew also.
I have been looking at replacing the Hakko 110V transformer (I can trade the transformer if anyone needs it) with a toroidal transformer.
I have looked at projects and they seem to have been successful but also seem to have used single Voltage Out toroidal transformers. But, the only toroidal transformers I found all have dual 12V or dual 24V Voltage Out.
It seems I should have to use a single Voltage Out toroidal transformer... -
I got gifted a Hakko 950 SMT hot tweezers but no base or stand.
Any suggestions for building one?
"The 950 is compatible with the Hakko 936, 937, 939, 703, 926, 927 and 928 soldering stations." Apparently it has two heaters in parallel "24V 50W", one RTD temperature sensor 43-58Ω at room temp. 5-pin DIN.
I don't have any of those, have a 470-2 (no RTD in) and a FX-888A. -
I've been eyeing this thing up for years but could never justify the cost. I'm doing more console modding and repairs so I finally bit. I don't have it yet but wondering others opinions. I'll not be surprised to hear "you should have bought X instead". Unlike the hundreds of decent Hakko soldering iron clones, I didn't feel the chinese desoldering clones came anywhere near this unit....
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Hello All,
tl;dr: minimal electronics experience and my first repair, lifted 8 pads off the laptop display LED controller board when attempting a connector replacement, options are attempting pad repair or jump wiring.
Laptop Model: MacBook Pro 15 Mid-2014 Retina, A1398 MGXA2LL/A
eDP Display: Samsung LSN154YL01-A02, assembly sold as Apple part 661-8310
Soldering Equipment: Hakko FX-888D w/ T-18 tips (Chisel, Conical, Bevel types)
I needed to replace the 30-pin I-PEX Cabline connector (labeled J8300 in the Apple 820-3662 mainboard schematics),... -
Hi,
My wife's 2019 MBP died a couple of weeks ago and I have been trying to figure out what is wrong with it. I have an electronics background and equipment but never tried to diagnose a modern MBP before. I have the board view and schematics already and have been climbing the learning curve steadily!
Initial fault was no power with USB ammeter showing 5.19V @ around 12 to 35ma. I won't go into all the initial debug I did because ultimately I found R7900 to be high resistance when it should have been a 0ohm link.
So, going from the power sequence...
Comment