I took in a working board, recapped it, and killed it.
It had four bad Nichicon HM (no surprise) in 3300/6.3v. I recapped with MCZ, same spec. DOA after recapping.
The board will power up from the push button. The PSU lights and stays up. DVM measurement at the ATX-24 shows all good. A known good PSU is the same result. Definitely a board problem.
I noticed these four were very difficult to desolder. Kinda like the iron wasn't hot enough. I run at 450C for desoldering, so this should not be a problem. I cleaned holes, etc.
I disassembled my Hakko iron tonight, and made sure everything was snug. I'm not sure if something was loose or not... long day, and all that. The iron seems to be taking more time getting up to LED Off (at temp). Might just be wishful thinking on my part.
I will touch all the points again, just to see if there is a cold flow. After that, I suppose I can try out the VRM diagnostic PDF I picked up here.
It had four bad Nichicon HM (no surprise) in 3300/6.3v. I recapped with MCZ, same spec. DOA after recapping.
The board will power up from the push button. The PSU lights and stays up. DVM measurement at the ATX-24 shows all good. A known good PSU is the same result. Definitely a board problem.
I noticed these four were very difficult to desolder. Kinda like the iron wasn't hot enough. I run at 450C for desoldering, so this should not be a problem. I cleaned holes, etc.
I disassembled my Hakko iron tonight, and made sure everything was snug. I'm not sure if something was loose or not... long day, and all that. The iron seems to be taking more time getting up to LED Off (at temp). Might just be wishful thinking on my part.
I will touch all the points again, just to see if there is a cold flow. After that, I suppose I can try out the VRM diagnostic PDF I picked up here.
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