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#21 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
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![]() how much power is the oven heater?
that relay is rated 10A inductive load - that's 2500w |
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#22 |
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![]() how long did it last before going faulty ?
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#23 | |
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![]() Quote:
Almost made it 9 months. Before that about 18 years. Last edited by junktv; 07-31-2018 at 02:39 AM.. |
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#24 |
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![]() so the relays lasted 18 years ?
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#25 |
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![]() Yup oven was bought new in winter of 2000.
Last edited by junktv; 07-31-2018 at 06:48 AM.. |
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#26 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
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![]() so that's a new relay?
is it exactly the same as the original? |
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#27 |
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![]() No it's the original relays. All I did last time was fixed the dry joints put it back together and it's been working since last december. I think I did clean that contact with some sand paper then also.
This time I am going to order new relays though since I seen it was stuck. I actually pulled the relay apart when I removed the back. Last edited by junktv; 07-31-2018 at 07:21 AM.. |
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#28 |
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![]() new ones should last 18 years .
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#29 |
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![]() Trying to decide If I want to go ahead and replace those caps.
Nichicon says the PR is replaced with PS. Pr is a standard for switching with a impedance of .053 with 1100 ripple. PS is a low impedance for switching .058 with a 1600 ripple. Would the FM's be better for the PR? I see one FM says general and one FM says low impedance which seems odd. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...6hqa%252bt0%3d http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...KHKNEftJEVA%3d The kl says standard low leakage and looks like it's still available. No clue on the other 2. |
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#30 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
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![]() FM is low, use the PS if your that concerned.
the ps has a better ripple capability too. |
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#31 |
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![]() I'm sorry it was FC that momaka had mentioned. Higher ripple and hour rated but lower impedance at .034 than the PS.
Last edited by junktv; 07-31-2018 at 12:56 PM.. |
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#32 |
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![]() probably fine to use.
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#33 |
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![]() Just a heads up newark seems to be having a big sale on a lot of nichicon PW caps pennies on the dollar.
http://www.newark.com/c/passive-comp...ange=pw-series Last edited by junktv; 07-31-2018 at 02:05 PM.. |
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#34 |
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![]() Well I save a buck buying from newark and closer so would get it sooner but would have to use a FC vs PS(PR replacement) and find a replacement for the KL. Mouser has them so will probably just order from there.
Last edited by junktv; 07-31-2018 at 02:45 PM.. |
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#35 |
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![]() PS and PW will both do fine, as will Panasonic FC. In fact, I think Panny FC is rated for automotive applications, so they'll be okay with all the heat. Not that FR or FM are any worse, but they are getting close to ultra-low ESR and have aqueous electrolyte, IIRC. Meanwhile, PW, PS, and FC have the older non-aquous electrolyte that's proven to last over the years in harsh conditions.
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#36 |
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![]() The newark PW sale I was just letting you guys know about since yall have helped me a bunch. I figured since some of you do this for a living you could stock up cheap.
Sorry I meant PR not FR. I don't know this stuff like you guys and I get confused with all the series. lol Will probably just order from mouser since they have PS and kl in stock and the PS closer on impedance. Shame the 2 surge brand caps don't have any info on type. Last edited by junktv; 07-31-2018 at 02:58 PM.. |
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#37 |
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![]() These KL's have 2 models. Only difference I see is the tollerence 10% vs 20%.
http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compon...yx4aw3Z1z0vhz5 Well most others are 20% so went with that one. Last edited by junktv; 07-31-2018 at 04:47 PM.. |
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#38 |
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![]() Just noticed something the old kl says KL(K) and new one says KL(M). is there any difference?
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#39 |
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![]() That is the tolerance code (M = 20%, K = 10%).
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#40 |
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![]() Ah ok Thank you.
I wonder if there will be a problem using the 20% one instead of the 10%. Or if I should put the old one back in. Last edited by junktv; 08-03-2018 at 09:20 PM.. |
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