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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
City & State: Congleton
My Country: United Kingdom
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 75
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![]() Hi
I've just purchased an Amazon Basics laminator, to use for PCB toner transfers but thats not the reason for my post. I opened up the unit to see what was going on inside to find that it contains 3 normally closed temperature sensors. I have draw a schematic of what i believe to be how its wired up, but if I've draw it correctly I don't understand the purpose of the third 130 degree temp switch, as regardless of whether the other 2 temp switch's had switched off the third would remain on therefore defeating the object of the other 2 switch's. I have attached the schematic that i have draw and some images of the device so if you could take a look to see if I'm mistaken i would be grateful. |
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#2 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,301
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![]() Quote:
If that's the case, then the two "other" positions represent operation at 115C and 125C ("operation" implying the motor is running to pull the material through the laminator). The 130C cutout then acts as a standby/preheat setting -- with the motor off (as soon as anything passes through the laminator, the temperature will drop to a point where the appropriate 115/125 cutout acts to control the temperature). Note that most laminators are designed to laminate bits of paper in plastic encapsulants. So, you may find the heating element underperforming for your needs. [I have to give the heating element in my laminator time to "catch up" if I have been laminating large (e.g., 8x14") items -- or, set it to run hotter than desired (I have a variable temperature control)] |
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#3 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 263
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![]() I've over driven one of these type of basic laminator before now by changing the thermal switches for higher temperature and used it for a while for making PCB's. It lasted about a year before the plastic rollers holding the rails and rollers started to melt and it became useless.
It was replaced with a variable temperature model that can hit the required temps without fear of it melting or bursting into flames. |
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#4 | |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
City & State: Congleton
My Country: United Kingdom
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 75
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![]() Quote:
I still don't get how the heater could be preheating until I've switched to either side as the heater is switched on the neutral side. Sorry I may be just being thick. |
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#5 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2012
City & State: ☻
My Country: Canada
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 8,101
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![]() It does'nt make sense. Does the unit start to heat up when first pluged in and the switch in the OFF position?
It could be that one thermal cutout is just to control the "ready" led Last edited by R_J; 02-15-2020 at 11:04 PM.. |
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#6 | |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
City & State: Congleton
My Country: United Kingdom
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 75
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![]() Quote:
The unit has got a ready led which I think is switched on from the 130 degree temp switch. I didn't draw that in as i haven't taken the small PCB out to look at how its wired up. The 125 degree and 130 degree seem to switch off and on at around the same time. To me the lower temp setting seems pointless as when this position is selected with the rocker switch it wouldn't turn the heater off until all 3 thermal cutouts are off no matter what. Last edited by pintglass; 02-16-2020 at 02:24 AM.. |
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#7 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
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Posts: 26,681
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![]() so your using laser-toner??
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
City & State: Congleton
My Country: United Kingdom
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 75
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#9 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 26,681
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![]() have you seen the project to use a modified $50 laser printer to print directly to the pcb and fuse it in one pass?
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#10 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2011
City & State: Some times Sunny Jacksonville FL
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120 Volts 60 HZ
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Posts: 3,582
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![]() Please post this link
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9 PC LCD Monitor 6 LCD Flat Screen TV 30 Desk Top Switching Power Supply 10 Battery Charger Switching Power Supply for Power Tool 6 18v Lithium Battery Power Boards for Tool Battery Packs 1 XBox 360 Switching Power Supply and M Board 25 Servo Drives 220/460 3 Phase 6 De-soldering Station Switching Power Supply 1 Power Supply 1 Dell Mother Board 15 Computer Power Supply 1 HP Printer Supply & Control Board * lighting finished it * These two repairs where found with a ESR meter...> Temp at 50*F then at 90*F the ESR reading more than 10% 1 Over Head Crane Current Sensing Board ( VFD Failure Five Years Later ) 2 Hem Saw Computer Stack Board All of these had ![]() All of the mosfet that are taken out by bad caps ![]() |
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#11 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2014
City & State: Midlands
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![]() Marco Reps has done a video printing direct to PCB but he uses acetone vapour to fuse the toner.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWUul62irY |
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#12 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 26,681
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![]() i'm surprised he didnt just vaporise the copper with a coČ laser knowing him!!
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#13 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 26,681
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#14 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2014
City & State: Midlands
My Country: England
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