Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
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Re: Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
Additionally, you may not need new ccfls. It could be the ccfl wiring that is at fault.--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
I looked at that datasheet, I can't even fit that in my mouth let onlone digest it. I was just looking for ccfl's, but it's a topploy panel they look hard to find.Comment
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Re: Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
So plug the "working" middle ccfl into the far left. Then try the "working" middle ccfl into the far right.
Report the results.--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
Taking the middle lights and pluging them into the outer sockets, the left(J903) one came on really dim and then shut off and the right(J906) one didn't come on at all. I plugged the outer lights into the inner sockets and they came on bright and then shut off. So when the either light is plugged into the inner sockets(good ones I hope) they all come on bright and then shut off.
I didn't know you could switch the lights around like that(add that to my troubleshooting notebook).Last edited by De3rcr; 11-30-2010, 06:12 PM.Comment
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Re: Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
Okay, just going forward and to make it easier to trace and follow, the far right is which J connector? J903, J904, J905 or J906?--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
And just to confirm, all the ccfls light up (when switched around) except when plugged into the "far right" connector?--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
The good news is that J905 is working so we have a known good circuit for comparison.Last edited by retiredcaps; 11-30-2010, 06:30 PM.--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
OK,
Taking the middle lights and pluging them into the outer sockets, the left(J903) one came on really dim and then shut off and the right(J906) one didn't come on at all. I plugged the outer lights into the inner sockets and they came on bright and then shut off. So when the either light is plugged into the inner sockets(good ones I hope) they all come on bright and then shut off.
I didn't know you could switch the lights around like that(add that to my troubleshooting notebook).
If you plug in the 3 other ccfls one at a time to the connector J906 that does not light the ccfl,
Do you still get no light, or do any of the other bulbs light up dimly?
Al.Whatever I do, I consider it a success, if in the end I am breathing, seeing, feeling and hearing!Comment
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Re: Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
I also resoldered J906 and J903 same resultsComment
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36 Monitors, 3 TVs, 4 Laptops, 1 motherboard, 1 Printer, 1 iMac, 2 hard drive docks and one IP Phone repaired so far....Comment
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Re: Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
This inverter transformer uses a newer design. Early designs had one CCFL per transformer. One end of the secondary fed the CCFL, usually through a capacitor. The other end of the secondary was either tied to ground or to a current sensing circuit. Later designs coupled the output to two CCFLs by using two capacitors.
This design uses two CCFLs driven from opposite ends of the secondary windings. The return lines from the CCFLs either go to current sensing circuitry or to ground. There are usually a few capacitors to sense voltage, and to tune the circuit.
The best way I can illustrate the difference is the old way was like two flashlight batteries, each with a flashlight bulb connected to the top and bottom. In that design, each battery and bulb set is independent of the other.
The analogy for the newer design would be two batteries in series, and two light bulbs in series. and the light bulbs connected from the bottom of one battery to the top of the other. In this case, they are dependent on the other.
This means that disconnecting one bulb of the pair is not a valid test UNLESS some provision is made to pass current through the open socket. The best way would be to use a resistor. Radio Shack 271-1131 is a 5-pack of 100K ohm .5 watt resistors. They should work FOR A SHORT PERIOD, and are normally stocked in the stores.
This is going to be crude, but what I would suggest is soldering one resistor across each unused socket (I've circled the pins of each socket in matching colors.), then plugging a CCFL into one socket, turning on the monitor briefly and evaluating how bright the CCFL lights. For the first test, I would suggest trying all four CCFLs in turn in the same socket. For the second test, I would suggest testing one CCFL at a time in each socket, with the other sockets jumpered by a resistor. Yes, this will require unsoldering and resoldering resistors. Be careful, the resistors may get hot.
PlainBillFor a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.Comment
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Re: Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
This means that disconnecting one bulb of the pair is not a valid test UNLESS some provision is made to pass current through the open socket. The best way would be to use a resistor. Radio Shack 271-1131 is a 5-pack of 100K ohm .5 watt resistors. They should work FOR A SHORT PERIOD, and are normally stocked in the stores.
This is going to be crude, but what I would suggest is soldering one resistor across each unused socket (I've circled the pins of each socket in matching colors.), then plugging a CCFL into one socket, turning on the monitor briefly and evaluating how bright the CCFL lights. For the first test, I would suggest trying all four CCFLs in turn in the same socket. For the second test, I would suggest testing one CCFL at a time in each socket, with the other sockets jumpered by a resistor. Yes, this will require unsoldering and resoldering resistors. Be careful, the resistors may get hot.
PlainBillComment
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Re: Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
I'd say little chance of blowing the board. The Radio Shack resistors are underrated for this, they will get warm.
What I'm hoping is you will find one of the two sides will be noticeably dimmer for all CCFLs (bad transformer), OR one CCFL will be noticeably different (bad CCFL or wiring).
PlainBillFor a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.Comment
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Re: Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
I'd say 5 seconds or less. You want to be able to say 'Bright', 'Dim', or 'none'. You still might get 'two seconds to black', the resistances are a little low (120K ohm would be better).
I'd say little chance of blowing the board. The Radio Shack resistors are underrated for this, they will get warm.
What I'm hoping is you will find one of the two sides will be noticeably dimmer for all CCFLs (bad transformer), OR one CCFL will be noticeably different (bad CCFL or wiring).
PlainBill, going to replace that and try again.
Comment
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Re: Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
I don't know why it didn't click before, but the LG Flatron 1718S-BN that you repaired can be used as "good" ccfl.
You don't take out the ccfls in the LG. Just drag the LG LCD close enough to the Planar and stretch out the connector (don't let the two LCDs touch).--- begin sig file ---
If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.
We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.
Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.
--- end sig file ---Comment
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Re: Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
I'd say 5 seconds or less. You want to be able to say 'Bright', 'Dim', or 'none'. You still might get 'two seconds to black', the resistances are a little low (120K ohm would be better).
I'd say little chance of blowing the board. The Radio Shack resistors are underrated for this, they will get warm.
What I'm hoping is you will find one of the two sides will be noticeably dimmer for all CCFLs (bad transformer), OR one CCFL will be noticeably different (bad CCFL or wiring).
PlainBill
Then I saw this(I didn't think about this either DUH!!)
and took apart the LG and hooked it up and the ccfl's shut off after about 5 secs. Transformer???Comment
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--- begin sig file ---
If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.
We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.
Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.
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Re: Planar PL1700-BK - backlights go out
If you haven't already try re soldering the inverter coil and anything else that's thru hole around J906
Al.Whatever I do, I consider it a success, if in the end I am breathing, seeing, feeling and hearing!Comment
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