This actually looks pretty good. Hope you don't mind if I copy your idea. I need to mount a fan on a PC case the same way (it's a very old case with no exhaust or intake fans anywhere other than the PSU fan).
Cool PC, by the way. If I am not mistaken that PSU is a YoungYear / Apevia / Aspire unit. Those green sleeved cables should be UV-reactive - i.e. if you add ultra-violet lighting in the case, it will make those cables and their connectors glow too.
Good overclock on that C2D CPU too!
Usually yes. But if you apply it carefully without pulling any strings from it, you can actually make it look pretty well. I do it around the cables of the probes of my cheap HF multimeters to prevent the cables from twisting and breaking. It looks almost like I have transparent sleeves on them. Eventually the glue does crack as I use them. But then all I have to do is re-heat the glue again and everything looks normal again.
Recently after trying hot melt glue (they're thermoplastic, not paraffin) I have a decision to use between hot melt vs epoxy... I like being able to reuse/repair hot melt where epoxy is pretty much set in stone after it sets.
Basically if it has to deal with any sort of heat, epoxy is used. If not, then hot melt glue.
On the other hand, is epoxy or hot melt glue cheaper per volume if I need to use it as potting material?
This actually looks pretty good. Hope you don't mind if I copy your idea. I need to mount a fan on a PC case the same way (it's a very old case with no exhaust or intake fans anywhere other than the PSU fan).
Now that is 100% proper ghetto!
Cool PC, by the way. If I am not mistaken that PSU is a YoungYear / Apevia / Aspire unit. Those green sleeved cables should be UV-reactive - i.e. if you add ultra-violet lighting in the case, it will make those cables and their connectors glow too.
Good overclock on that C2D CPU too!
Usually yes. But if you apply it carefully without pulling any strings from it, you can actually make it look pretty well. I do it around the cables of the probes of my cheap HF multimeters to prevent the cables from twisting and breaking. It looks almost like I have transparent sleeves on them. Eventually the glue does crack as I use them. But then all I have to do is re-heat the glue again and everything looks normal again.
Thanks, yes it's a nice way to mount a fan on a drive bay.
Actually I don't think that PSU is made by apevia, is not that good but not near as bad as most apevia I have seen
This is the PSU, actually you posted a couple times on that thread https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=58330
From what I saw is a topower or at least based on the design
Look https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...postcount=1931
He said something about leadman but I don't think they can make something decent lol
Actually I don't think that PSU is made by apevia, is not that good but not near as bad as most apevia I have seen
This is the PSU, actually you posted a couple times on that thread https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=58330
Yeah, he said that only the last batch of Topower PSUs (before Topower seized to exist) were made by Leadman and not Topower. Meanwhile, it's Zumax that was made by Topower. So looking at how close that Zumax PSU is to yours, you probably indeed have a Topower unit.
With 2GB of RAM I felt like Vista/7 is too much for the machine so the best choice was XP (besides Linux)
qft
ASRock B550 PG Velocita
Ryzen 9 "Vermeer" 5900X
32 GB G.Skill RipJaws V F4-3200C16D-32GVR
Sapphire Nitro+ Radeon RX 6750 XT
eVGA Supernova G3 750W
Western Digital Black SN850 1TB NVMe SSD
Alienware AW3423DWF OLED
"¡Me encanta "Me Encanta o Enlistarlo con Hilary Farr!" -Mí mismo
"There's nothing more unattractive than a chick smoking a cigarette" -Topcat
"Today's lesson in pissivity comes in the form of a ziplock baggie full of GPU extension brackets & hardware that for the last ~3 years have been on my bench, always in my way, getting moved around constantly....and yesterday I found myself in need of them....and the bastards are now nowhere to be found! Motherfracker!!" -Topcat
"did I see a chair fly? I think I did! Time for popcorn!" -ratdude747
Here is a test board i made of a copper-dot PCB.......
It may not look too bad but the bottom is where the 'fun' is.
As you can see, the soldering looks like it was done by someone who did not know what they were doing.
Note; I'm usually better than this (at least i hope i am) but this was a case where i wanted to get it done ASAP even if it meant cutting a few corners on soldering (which i usually don't do). This will not be going into use.
Haha!
Looks like that fan's been running for a long time in there now.
Hahahaha, 6 years running, a good old Sunon MagLev fan oh and the mod is not just the cooler or the dust only, 4 aluminium heatsinks added made from a southbridge HS fixed with hot glue like it should be for a proper mod )
I probably should have been a bit more specific with that last line (maybe some along the lines of 'what is the circuit powering' or something like that, oh well).
Yeah the radio shack copper ringed perfboard is pretty crappy (FR2 and not plated through). Veroboard is more sturdy but requires careful planning else a lot of cuts are needed.
The chinese plated through, FR4 double sided copper ringed perfboard is indeed the deluxe bee's knees ... though I would really rather have a real PCB done, cutting veroboard or adding wire links is a major PITA.
This I did just to play with capacitive droppers... crappy soldering. That cold joint soldered LED is going to disconnect and the electrolytic capacitor will blow up
Oh... and do notice I reused this board. I think I used this board for something else, then ripped all the components out and built this on it. I wonder when it comes time for me to disassemble this and build something else
The chinese plated through, FR4 double sided copper ringed perfboard is indeed the deluxe bee's knees ... though I would really rather have a real PCB done, cutting veroboard or adding wire links is a major PITA.
Speaking of that, does anyone on eBay sell double-sided protoboard without PTH? I wanted some a while ago where I would have had to drill out the plating from about 80 holes...
"Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHorn
Not sure, honestly I hate perfboard. If the board design is complicated at all, I would rather do a homemade single sided where tracks are only where I want it to be...
I think the most complicated no-link perfboard design I've put together was a small DDS, and "never again!" *sigh* Then again part of the problem is that I was reducing the BOM to the parts I had on hand... having to use two 10K resistors instead of a 20K complicated things.
Here's a piece of double sided perfboard with PTH and GOLD PLATING ?!?!? (BTW, other side looks the same) ... I do NOT like.
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