I would like some feedback on symptoms of bad caps. So far in my limited troubleshooting experience. In regards to Electrolytics any way that cooling a cap seems to bring out problem more so than heating. I notice that as a cap gets worse as in tv start up. It takes an increasing amount of attempts to get it to work. I conclude that each start attempt warms cap up a little bit. So cooling cap makes problem worse and heating cap tends to improve symptom. Anybody agree with this logic or am I just full of it?
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I assume no responsibility for any stupid suggestions I might post. -
Re: Electrolitic troubleshooting
Yes it is kind of strange, heating the capacitor will make it better short term but it's not healthy for it - bad for it long term. -
Re: Electrolitic troubleshooting
heating probably thin's the liquid so it can re-absorb into the paper.Comment
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Re: Electrolitic troubleshooting
ESR goes down as temperature goes up, and opposite effect when cap is cool down.
Hair dryer is one of my tools.Last edited by budm; 11-09-2017, 10:36 PM.Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
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Re: Electrolitic troubleshooting
So you can tend to suspect cap if problem improves as tv warms up?I assume no responsibility for any stupid suggestions I might post.Comment
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Re: Electrolitic troubleshooting
yesComment
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Re: Electrolitic troubleshooting
And in my limited experience semi's seem to be the opposite as heat seems to break them down. So heating or cooling gives clues as to bad cap or bad semi. I have tv that works good for several hours. I heated control board and caused the problem. So likely not a bad cap but bad semi or connection?I assume no responsibility for any stupid suggestions I might post.Comment
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Re: Electrolitic troubleshooting
yes.Comment
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Re: Electrolitic troubleshooting
i try and localise the heat and find the general area then start warming caps one at a time with my iron .. please be aware to NOT do this with unit you are looking at plugged into the mains power as it will very likely cause a short circuit .. dont ask how i found that out ..Comment
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Re: Electrolitic troubleshooting
a friend used to do that with a thermal pad between the iron & suspect part.
personally i think it's too much localised heat - if it works for you then fine.Comment
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Re: Electrolitic troubleshooting
yes it works for me .saves changing a whole load of stuff .. or scoping it out .. its quicker for me . most shit i get to fix isnt worth the time .Comment
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Hi,
I'm wondering if anybody out there has much knowledge of Samsung Bremen motherboards.
I've got a Samsung R530 which is about 10 years old, over the last 12 months it developed a worsening problem where when asked to do much work it would shut itself down. I had a good idea this was due to overheating which was confirmed by a temperature monitor programme which showed little balls of fire next to the various internal temperature readings. I could also prevent it shutting down if I placed a huge fan running at full speed in front of its air intake!
So I went in pursuit of... -
I hope my computer does not randomly reboot while typing this. My main system is the AsRock 970A-G/3.1 motherboard with the AMD 8150 chip. I am experiencing FREQUENT and RANDOM reboots once the system is used for a couple of hours (sometimes it reboots before I even get to the Win7/Linux Mint dual-boot screen). The problem MIGHT be the DRAM controller chip (I recently upgraded to the maximum 64 GB RAM). It also might be the VRM chips. I am using a typical aftermarket CPU cooler, which does NOT blow air DOWN onto the VRM heat sink.
(After previous generation hardware [Gigabyte] didn't... -
I've got this circuit that I've been playing with on a breadboard. I'm not happy with it mainly because the MOSFET gets too hot and generally controlling the temp of the heating element with the Arduino has proven to be a little more cumbersome than I would like.
What I would like to know, is what is the best way to set up a circuit like this? The heating element is just a PCB and its going to be mounted under a 3D-printed enclosure that a lizard will use to warm his belly.
This is the general setup that I have now.
This is what the... -
Hello everyone,
I'm currently diagnosing a MacBook Pro A1707 motherboard that does not power on. I've gathered some data but am stuck and need expert advice.
Note that i'm a beginner in electronics and i'm trying to learn while trying to repair this macbook that my work gave me. I'm really curious and love understanding how thing works and i already learned so much.
Only one usb c port is taking 20v and have 12.5v on PPBUS_G3H. when trying other ports, 2 are not going to 20v and one is going to 20v but the CD3215 is getting really hot.
Observations... -
Samsung LN46C630K1F – Intermittent Backlight, BN44-00341B Power Board
Summary for TL-DR readers:
• Backlight is intermittent, may come on with TV boot or not. No flickering, never fails during TV on.
• Have obtained Samsung schematic & service documents - Can upload if helpful.
• Have read ALL applicable threads
• C1818 and CP820 replaced as low hanging fruit
• CN802 data taken for normal and failed BL operation. SUMMARY: Pin 2 - 5vDet = 3.52 @normal, 0.0 @BL fail. Pin 6 - EPWM = 1.631 @normal, 1.058 @BL fail.
• VCC pin (18) of PFC...
Comment