Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
"Does that mean the transistor provides a ground connection to the load? I'm specifically asking about the "load sinks current into the NPN transistor" statement."Yes. Sink mean the one end of the load is connected to the VCC, the other end is connected to one end of the switch (Transistor, Relay contacts or MOSFET), the other end of the switch is connected to GND to complete the current flow, this can also be called LOW side switching.
The other way to supply the current to the load is to Source the current (or HIGH side switching), the VCC is connected to the switch (Transistor, MOSFET, Relay contacts), the output side of the switch is connected to the load, the other end of the load is then connected to GND to complete the circuit.
http://electronics.stackexchange.com...high-side-load
http://www.eetimes.com/document.asp?doc_id=1272366
http://www.infineon.com/cms/en/produ...3dfda067250219
Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
Collapse
X
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
From the last article you linked to, when they say:
"Here, the control signal will turn power on and off to the load. Note that the load sinks current into the NPN transistor when it's made to act as a switch."
Does that mean the transistor provides a ground connection to the load? I'm specifically asking about the "load sinks current into the NPN transistor" statement.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
what chip is in this mouse?
there is probably an example schematic in the datasheets.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
Thank you Budm! I will give it a shot and see what happens. I will also read the links you have posted once I'm done.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
Yup, that's mine.
The collector goes to the positive terminal (anode) of the LED. It goes through a diode and possibly a few other things. I think I know what this transistor does. I think it's what makes the LED blink when you move the LED. With the mouse, if you flip it upside down, the LED flashes. It doesn't do that now that the cap is missing.
http://www.eecs.tufts.edu/~dsculley/...nsistors1.htmlLast edited by budm; 12-16-2015, 02:51 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
Yup, that's mine.
The collector goes to the positive terminal (anode) of the LED. It goes through a diode and possibly a few other things. I think I know what this transistor does. I think it's what makes the LED blink when you move the LED. With the mouse, if you flip it upside down, the LED flashes. It doesn't do that now that the cap is missing.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
http://img0051o.psstatic.com/1026616...interface-.jpg
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
Okay Budm, I get new results.
When the Blue LED is on, the collector measures 1.45VDC. When I switch it off and measure the collector, I get 0.45VDC but it's counting down. After a few minutes, it reads 0. However, if I switch on the mouse and the blue LED does not light up and then I turn off the mouse, the collector measures 0.004VDC.Last edited by Spork Schivago; 12-16-2015, 02:23 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
'I should test the collector with reference to GND when the LED is on and off?' Yes.
As you can see the measured Vbe are < 0.72V, if it is bias on then you should see 0.6~0.7VDC range.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
It's definitely a NPN silicon transistor. Current Gain Hfe = 345, Test Current Ic = 2.50mA, Base-Emitter Voltage Vbe = 0.72v, Test Current Ib = 4.68mA, Leakage Current Ic = 0.00mA. Does any of this information help at all or no?
Once I resolder Q5 back to the board, I should test the collector with reference to GND when the LED is on and off? Like black probe on the negative terminal of the battery, red probe on the collector.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
https://www.ibiblio.org/kuphaldt/ele...mi/SEMI_4.html
The thing is that you should look at DCV of Q5 D (C) with ref to GND to see what you get when the LED is on and when LED is off, you should see the Voltage on the D (C) change state, right now e do no know what Q5 and Q6 are used for in the circuit. Unless you have another working mouse to do comparison readings, then it will be time consuming to troubleshoot the circuit.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
So when the Blue LED lights up the E-B junction is not being bias ON then per your reading with ref to Negative of the battery/GND plane. So the Collector Voltage rises (Transistor is OFF) to the 1.5V (battery Voltage)
Q5
Post 32: However, when the blue LED is light up, I get:
D (C): 1.55VDC
G (B): 0.146VDC
S (E): 0.007VDC
Q6
D (C): 1.55VDC
G (B): 0.19VDC
S (E): 0.006VDCLeave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
This mouse does use just 1 double A battery. It's a Microsoft Mobile 6000 Mouse or something like that. The GND plane does appear to be directly connected to the negative side of the battery. When I made the measurements, I had the black probe on the negative side of the battery (unless I clearly stated otherwise).
Q5
Post 32: However, when the blue LED is light up, I get:
D (C): 1.55VDC
G (B): 0.146VDC
S (E): 0.007VDC
Q6
D (C): 1.55VDC
G (B): 0.19VDC
S (E): 0.006VDCLast edited by budm; 12-16-2015, 11:50 AM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
This mouse does use just 1 double A battery. It's a Microsoft Mobile 6000 Mouse or something like that. The GND plane does appear to be directly connected to the negative side of the battery. When I made the measurements, I had the black probe on the negative side of the battery (unless I clearly stated otherwise).Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
Q5 S (E) is connected to GND plane, so you should check and see if the GND plane is connected directly to the Negative of the batteries or not, then your reading may make sense.
Does this mouse use just one AA battery? my 3500 uses just one AA to run so I am sure it has dc Voltage booster circuit to run the Blue LED.Last edited by budm; 12-15-2015, 10:19 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
What ever it is it does not appear to have the conditions to turning on at least not DC wise. With common base a transistor need 0.7 volts to turn on base to emitter. With the FET the gate voltage/current would turn on the FET that would be conditional on the design and could be a switching condition that may not be able to be measured in a DC mode. So BudM what do you think?Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
1.55VDC seem to go into D (C) on both Q5 and Q6. Don't seem to get any readings coming out of either really, when the LED isn't lit up. On Q5, G (B) reads 0V, Q6, G (B) reads something like 0.005VDC or 0.006VDC. However, when the blue LED is light up, I get:
Q5
D (C): 1.55VDC
G (B): 0.146VDC
S (E): 0.007VDC
Q6
D (C): 1.55VDC
G (B): 0.19VDC
S (E): 0.006VDC
When I put the black probe on D (C) instead of on the battery's negative terminal, I get these readings:
D (C) - S (E): -1.474VDC
D (C) - G (B): -1.303VDC
G (B) - S (E): -0.141VDC
I get the same values but positive if I switch the probes around. Red probe on D (C), black probe on S (E), +1.474VDC, etc. Does this mean it's a MOSFET and not a transistor or do these measurements imply it's a PNP transistor?Last edited by Spork Schivago; 12-15-2015, 02:12 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
When the battery was plugged in and the blue LED lit up, we measured voltages to see if places where getting them. I can't remember what the voltages where but I'd be more than willing to try it again. When we try to turn it on, most of the times the blue LED doesn't light up. But if we switch the on / off switch a bunch of times, sometimes the LED light will light up and stay lit. When it's not lit up at all, I want to say there wasn't much voltage on anything. When it was lit up, we did get a bunch of voltage readings. I'll try to take some measurements now for Q5 and Q6.Last edited by Spork Schivago; 12-15-2015, 01:42 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
I'm not sure how to tell if it's a transistor or a FET. Perhaps that's what Budm was trying to figure out by having me measuring the various pins? The chip itself has the letters VB with a sideways P on it. We found this site:
http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/vb
The only ones it would fit on that site is a zener diode. I highly doubt that site has every SMD component markings on it though. The collector to emitter is not open either way I measure it, if it is a transistor. There's another one on the board though (Q6), same markings and it has a resistor and capacitor hooked in parallel as well.
I was wondering if I could use that one as a test reference. Do the same Diode test and see how the numbers compare and possibly even pull the cap and measure it's value to find a correct replacement for the bad cap. If I pull the resistor that's hooked up to Q6 and it's the same value of the resistor hooked to Q5, wouldn't it make sense that the capacitor on Q6 would be the same value as the bad cap that was hooked up to Q5?Last edited by Spork Schivago; 12-15-2015, 01:37 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help identifying value of this bad SMD cap.
If it is MOSFET, then you will read Body Diode between Source and Drain pin.
BTW, did you do any DCV checking on all 3 pins to see what you get? or in other sections also.Leave a comment:
Related Topics
Collapse
-
by Sam ScarboMy Sparkle (SPI) PC power supply has broken. Originally, there was totally no power output. The 5V-standby was not there. I have replaced a few bulged capacitors but not helping.
I was trying to do more troubleshooting but burned more components. Some got burned so badly that the markings were gone. And also, the markings of a few transistors were gone because the component surface was worn out somehow.
If you happened to have disassembled the same PSU model, please help to provide the markings of some of these components.
See the attached two pictures of the small...09-18-2024, 08:29 AM -
by LaptopSugarPlease identify the broken blown component. The pictures and schrmatic are attached. The 5 pin nextdoor refers to the dc cable. I think iy is the 1000p 50 0603 v7 cap but im not sure. Am i correct. the images are attached pleas help
The images followthe first is thebroken conponent, rhe second another board, the third the schematic, idought itsthe yello highlighted one on left... -
by chth96When I assembled dreamcast I mistakenly fastened long bolt and It resulted in
cutting tiny trace.
This tiny trace(Total width of white coating is 5.5mm) is between R337,R343 and IC101 and it is covered with white coating in the below screenshot.
Firstly I tried to bridging tiny broken trace with my own eyes...But it is totally impossible..So a week ago, I ordered G1200 Digital Microscope and I magnified this tiny broken trace with it.
But It seems that It is really very tiny trace So I plan to order 0.1mm coper wire from aliexpress in order to bridging... -
by FreakyMexHello guys. I'm a complete noob in electronics. I'd like to repair my child Lunii's (a "story box"), basically an audio player that allows the childs to choose between several options the places, characters, objects of the story, and then play a story according to the choice of the child. There is a screen that display the selected option before each choice. The Lunii fell and the screen is now broken.
I'd like to repair it (probably just have to change the part, because the lunii still works perfectly fine) but I can't manage to identify the part/order it online. Do you have any...02-17-2025, 01:16 AM -
by matheus30Good evening, can you help me with a complicated repair?
I'm repairing an LED screen gaming notebook. The screen has a short circuit, and when the notebook is plugged in, it won't turn on. I found the short by removing the coil in the red circle, and by injecting voltage, I see that the Richtek power supply in the blue circle is heating up. Therefore, I have located the fault.
But I have two problems:
1. The most serious is that I accidentally lost the coil, and I don't have a photo. I can also tell you that there was nothing written on it. Can anyone who has seen that... - Loading...
- No more items.
Leave a comment: