Antec truepower II 430 Cap. Question

[22turbo]

I have an Antec Truepower II 430 power supply that was supplying an extremely low +5VSB, the only symptoms that it showed was that it would not wake up from standby mode, and it made an annoying high pitched whine. I took it apart and every cap was a Fuhjyyu except the two main Rubycons. All of the small ones in the center of the supply were leaking (47uF,470uF and 1000 uF). I want to replace all of the caps in the supply except the two Rubycons with nichicons (PW series) that I can find fairly easily from Mouser. Do these seem like a good fit?

10V 1000uF 8x20 --x1
25V 470uF 8x20 --x1
50V 10uF 5x11 --x1
35V 47uF 6.3X11 --x1
10V 4700uF 16x25 --x4
16V 3300uF 12.5x35.5 --x2

Also do you think the recap will solve the whine? Thanks in advance for your help.

Dan

[22turbo]

Re: Antec truepower II 430 Cap. Question

Also, for the "10V 4700uF 16x25 --x4," would it be okay to use a vr series cap there, those seem to be the only ones that are the correct size.

Dan

[PeteS in CA]

Re: Antec truepower II 430 Cap. Question

Chances are that the whine is either the main loop is oscillating, due to failure of an O/P cap, or the +5V Stby regulator switching at the wrong, audible, frequency due to the failure of one of those small caps (which might also be the reason the +5V Stby is low). So yes, recapping with good caps is likely to fix both problems. However, do not use those VR series caps in recapping the P/S. IIRC, the VR series is a high quality general purpose series, not suitable for use as output caps. Only use low impedance caps for P/S output caps - e.g. Nichicon PM, PW or HE series, United Chemicon LXY, LXZ, KY or KZE or series, or Rubycon ZL series.

[22turbo]

Re: Antec truepower II 430 Cap. Question

Sorry if this is a newbie question, but what does o/p stand for.

Dan

[22turbo]

Re: Antec truepower II 430 Cap. Question

Which brands do you guys prefer between these, United Chemicon KY or Nichicon PW/HE?

Dan

[22turbo]

Re: Antec truepower II 430 Cap. Question

Well, it doesn't look like I'm going to be recapping this PS. While I was taking it apart I realized that a section of the circuit board in the center near the transformer was all scorched. I can't believe the power supply was still moderately operational when I took it out! I'll post some pics of the carnage soon.

Dan

[PeteS in CA]

Re: Antec truepower II 430 Cap. Question

FWIW, PW, LXZ and FC are approximate equivalents - C-V-case, Z and rated life. HE and KY are approximate equivalents - C-V-case, Z and rated life. As I've mentioned elsewhere, water-based electrolye caps make me nervous; HE and KY are of that type, though with relatively low water content compared to other aqueous series. So I would have a slight preference for PW, LXZ and FC; at least some P/S mfrs use HE, KY and ZL (lower Z, higher rated current, shorter rated life than HE or KY), so I may be a little too conservative.

[gonzo0815]

Re: Antec truepower II 430 Cap. Question

It is not very uncommon in PSU`s, that some parts are visible scorched or darker due to wrong compponen placement or to less saefty marging.
But some pic`s would be a good idear.

[22turbo]

Re: Antec truepower II 430 Cap. Question

It is not very uncommon in PSU`s, that some parts are visible scorched or darker due to wrong compponen placement or to less saefty marging.
But some pic`s would be a good idear.

I agree, but this supply actually got hot enough to melt the solder around a diode, which seems a little excessive to me. I'll probably be buying a seasonic to replace it.

Dan

[22turbo]

Re: Antec truepower II 430 Cap. Question

Heres some pictures of the power supply. In the picture of the burnt circuit board, it's kind of hard to see, but the solder is melted around that top right pad in the burnt area so that there is no connection to the diode it's connected to.

Dan

[gonzo0815]

Re: Antec truepower II 430 Cap. Question

If your unsure, toss it. From my point of view, may be the root cause was an cold solder joint and re soldering with some amount of solder and may be aa copper wire as reinforcement for the pcb it should be ok.
May be the diode is now degraded from the heat, so replacement would be good.