Gjackson
Senior Member
Last Activity: 02-13-2025, 04:47 PM
Joined: 08-01-2021
Location: Birgu
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I've gone ahead and ordered a couple replacement aat7212 IC's and I'll update everyone when I replace them -
I suppose so, in the meantime thanks everyone for the help!Leave a comment:
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Just a quick update, I did exactly that and got the whole set to test with. Plugged everything back in and now it works somehow, I have standby and the tv powers on. I'm a little baffled as to why it's now working. Owner said that it was being intermittent but when I checked it there was no standby at all. There seem to be no cold joints and I tried tapping the boards while in operation and they seem to keep working. The only thing i've done is resolder the eeprom and replace the thermal paste on the CPU. Any clue as to what I should check before reassembly?Leave a comment:
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The lamp lights up fine if the mainboard is also connected:
[URL=filedata/fetch?id=3566647&d=1738944665][ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\t20250207_170801.jpg Views:\t4 Size:\t2.84 MB ID:\t3566647","data-align":"none","data-attachmentid":"3566647","data-size":"custom","height":"181","width":"136"}[/ATTACH][/URL]
but when I disconnect the mainboard it blinks and doesn't remain steady:
The lamp lights up...Last edited by Gjackson; 02-07-2025, 10:16 AM.Leave a comment:
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Interesting to note, if I unplug the mainboard from the power supply and take readings again it seems to fluctuate, I don't know if this is intended behavior from the power supply:
A13V = Fluctuating
FAIL_COUNT = 0v
POWER_ON = Fluctuating
PWM_BLU = Fluctuating
OD_ON/OFF = Fluctuating
ANA_DIM = 3.3v
Here's the waveform for A13V when fluctuating:
[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"custom","data-tempid":"temp_372498_1738937274889_56","height":"378","title":"5850317551547042069.jpg","width":"504"}[/ATTACH]...Leave a comment:
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Thanks for the reply, with the two boards set up on the bench here are the readings:
[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"custom","height":"415","title":"5850317551547042041.jpg","width":"553","data-attachmentid":3566498}[/ATTACH]
while on standby:
A13V = 8.9v
FAIL_COUNT = 0v
POWER_ON = 0.09v
PWM_BLU = 0v
OD_ON/OFF = 0v
ANA_DIM = 0v
while powered on:
A13V = 12.8v
FAIL_COUNT...Leave a comment:
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Thanks Lotas,
any clues how I should move forward and what to check next?
For testing I have the mainboard and power supply on my bench connected to each other, it seems like 13v is being generated and the mainboard warms up slowly and then after a while it switches into standby mode 8v and I can't find anything wrong with either of them, 3.3v and 1.8v are generated. Right now I don't have the tv chassis to test with, but maybe the wifi module or t-con board is shorted and was shorting the power supply?...Leave a comment:
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Samsung ue49mu6120 No Standby
Hi all,
Have a [B]Samsung ue49mu6120 [/B]with no standby light,
unplugging mainboard cable from the power supply turns backlight on.
power supply BN44-00807F
Main board BN41-02568B
Some other users suggest that the 25Q40 EEPROM might have become corrupted,
Could someone more knowledgeable take a look and see if mine is corrupted?
Thanks in advance:Hi all,
Have a [B]Samsung ue49mu6120 [/B]with no standby light,
unplugging mainboard cable from the power supply turns backlight on.
power supply BN44-00807F... -
Update: removed one of the IC's and the T-CON still get's really hot, nothing changes except the fact that the area of the removed IC on the COF PCB doesn't get hot since the chip is not there
I found this similar report on a website about a Philips tv with identical symptoms. I'm not sure what the issue described is however. There are no cold joints on the IC's and I tried resoldering both and nothing changed.
[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","title":"image.png","data-attachmentid&q...Last edited by Gjackson; 11-05-2024, 07:13 PM.Leave a comment:
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Hi!
Do you get a standby light? I would start by checking if the PSU outputs 19.45v when it is plugged into the board, from the connector on the small power PCB.
Next If it is present I would check the voltage on those 3 inductors, the grey box looking things on the small PCBLeave a comment:
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50PUS7555/12 Backlight no picture
Hi all,
bit of a weird one today,
Got this set with just backlight no picture, sound etc.. works fine so mainboard and PSU are likely good. I think it's a bad panel but don't know if it's fixable, here's why:
T-CON voltages all present when both LCD ribbons are disconnected but if both are connected then most of the rails are gone (ex. VGH, VGL, HVDD)
If only one of the ribbons is connected, I do get a hazy picture from the respective side but there is a loud hum coming from the T-CON board due to what I suspect is overcurrent and the circuitry that generates... -
A bit of an update:
I forgot to mention that those 2 input fuses also measure ok, no indications of a short anywhere. I also desoldered and measured both of the large film caps next to the fuses and they measure good with a multimeter right around their rated 4.7uf.
I also just noticed those 2 white relays which connect the respective live wires, could one of them for some reason not be triggering or maybe damaged? Would it damage the transistor that triggers them If it feed 12v into their coils to test them?Last edited by Gjackson; 07-09-2024, 06:04 PM.Leave a comment:
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SMEG induction cooker error EA on both left hand side cooktops
Hi all,
I have a SMEG cooktop with a EGO 72.08041.002 power board. The two left hand side cooktops started to slowly fail, sometimes stopping with an EA error (Power board failure according to the manual) after a couple minutes boiling some water and eventually they completely failed and now get an EA error on both of them at all times. Visual inspection of the board went over ok, I checked the IGBT's and rectifiers and they seem fine, what should I look at next as this is the first time I'm fixing an induction cooker, I'm suspecting capacitors in this case, Which ones should I look...Last edited by Gjackson; 07-09-2024, 03:06 PM. -
Bootloop...Leave a comment:
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Anyone have a dump for a SHARP lc-55sfe7332e?
Thank youLeave a comment:
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Appreciate both of your responses, cleared up my confusion!Leave a comment:
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Question about UE60JU6800K backlight power.
Hi all,
got my hands on a Samsung UE60JU6800K, initially it apparently had a bunch of white circles on screen which I confirmed was due to loose diffusers when I opened the set up and found a mountain of them at the bottom. The person I got if from stored the TV unused for a lengthy period after this so when I got it the backlight was completely gone. I took out the strips and almost all of the LED's have a crack on the yellow phosphor form the center of the LED outward, the ones that don't have this crack seem to work still (Maybe due to humidity after a long period?). Anyways I...Last edited by Gjackson; 06-11-2024, 06:09 AM. -
Unfortunately the laptop has been salvaged and it seems that the S/N sticker is no longer there, I tried to search for it everywhere but didn't find it anywhere. I would have certainly posted it otherwise, Is it possible to proceed without it?Leave a comment:
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Hi! I have a Lenovo L340-15IRH FG541 FG741 NM-C361, bios chip is Winbond 25Q128JVSQ. Laptop charges and powers on, power button and power light are solid white, keyboard turns on for a second or two and goes back off, fan spins and then also turn off. CPU get's warmer and fans turn back on after a while. Absolutely nothing on display and no back-light either. no display on external monitor and Caps Lock does not respond, doesn't seem to post.
I tried to reset CMOS but no dice.
I've attached the BIOS I attempted to dump with raspberry PI and flashrom. File size looks OK so I think it's...Leave a comment:
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Checked all the 12v secondary output caps too, seem fine, unless there's one that's testing good but is a bit leaky or something I have no clue at this pointLeave a comment:
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