Re: Should these caps be replaced?
They definitely suffered some abuse. I would replace them just to be sure.
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Re: Should these caps be replaced?
looked domed to me - cant understand why the cornell doublier should be so much more expensive.
maplins stock that brand - they are similar to radioshack!!Leave a comment:
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Should these caps be replaced?
Hello,
I am repairing a linear power supply with a blown bridge rectifier. It has three huge caps that I am not sure are bad. The tops are slightly domed but the vents have not popped. They test 0.01 ohms on my Blue ESR meter and I have no way to test the capacitance since they are 47,000 uF. It looks to me that from the date code they are from 2004 so about 9 years old.
This is the Digi Key link for the exact same caps: http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...ds=338-2267-ND
This is the link to the caps I will most likely get if they need to be replaced since they are a lot cheaper and the same basic specs: http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...081?k=P6901-ND
I have attached the datasheet for both brands of capacitors.
I am leaning toward just replacing them to be on the safe side but I thought it would be a good idea to get some input from the forum before spending the money. Any constructive feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks!Attached Files -
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I know I've been a little scarce lately (like the last 2-3 years), but I'm still here and still doing my thing with fixing PSUs.
For today's considerations, I have a Seasonic B12 BC-550 [A551bcafh] 550 Watt ATX power supply for you (click on links for full size images).
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591771
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591772
It's a modern ATX unit with fixed (non-modular) cables and an 80-plus bronze certificate. Here's the label:
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=359177... -
Normally, I never post repairs this quick after I do them, because… I am usually very slow.
But today, I’m making an exception here. Why? No idea. Perhaps only because the repair details are still “fresh” in my head… which is ironic, given this is a 16 year old monitor that hardly anyone will care about today. It is new to me, though. 
I picked it up last November from someone on my local Craigslist. It wasn’t very close to where I live, but was close to a family friend that I had to go visit anyways. So after watching the posting on Craigslist for a few weeks and seeing it getting...
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Hey guys, bit stumped with this laptop after replacing 2 blown components i.e., MP86493, MP2979A.
To begin with, this laptop was dead-dead.
Now with replaced (visibly) blown components, i do get some progress; after connecting battery or main cable;- am getting white power led
- 5-long-flashes on CAPS Lock and NUM lock
- then, fan full speed
- CPU heats up some (smaller die PCH, does not)
- always constant black screen no matter what's tried
- no USB recognition
- no HDMI output
I tried... -
LG 42LB5D (42LB5DF-UL) from 2008-01, unit is in good shape and no obvious heat damage or cracked solder on the boards.
Problem:
On first power-up the power LED flashes green about 18x and then stays solid. No backlight or image is present. Click power button, wait 10s for a click and the LED turns red. Wait 1-2s and hit power again and maybe it'll power up fully after 6 green flashes. If it doesn't light up on the sixth flash then the cycle repeats.
It seems that if the mainboard power is left on for a few minutes (solid green power, no backlight, no image)... -
Hello,
First, I am a complete noob with high voltage stuff. I'm learning, but I need help by someone looking over my shoulder.
I recently came into posession of a Heathkit IO-4205 5MHz Dual Trace Oscilloscope. The documentation is copyright 1978. I'm told it works.
I opened it up to check the caps before I applied power, and found the following black caps and wanted to know what they were. They are on the power supply board. I was able to read the name and model and came up with, "Nytronics 162J-1, 0.1uF, 20% tolerance, 2000VDC."
...
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