@jts1957
'Diode' has TWO solder joints.
'Lens' has THREE points securing.
What do you mean with lens three points securing
are there 2 points for anode or cathode and one for the other?
Can you please explain this!
regards thoma!
I know Led: Anode and cathode! is the third pin the lens mounted to ground
or connected with Anode or cathode?
I hope you know what I mean !Hope my Question is not stupid!
regards thoma!
The one in my pictures, each LED PCBA has 9 LEDs connected in series, then each PCBA are connected in series to form on big lonG LED string, that is why when one LED goes open circuit then whole string will no longer light up.
There are only 2 pads/connection for each LED as you can see here: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...3&d=1431830352
@jts1957
'Diode' has TWO solder joints.
'Lens' has THREE points securing.
What do you mean with lens three points securing
are there 2 points for anode or cathode and one for the other?
Can you please explain this!
regards thoma!
Lens has NO electrical contacts. Has three plastic pins that go through the board and are melted / crimped over from back side to secure.
The 50~60mA rating will be too low, most of them run in 100mA range.
I did not order one of these to try yet to see how it works.
Edge lit may use OSRAM, not sure.
I had a Technika--With a 40" Samsung panel--Exactly same layout with the LED's but the LED Driver-board is Inside the display-panel!
One LED was O/C, and two were S/C
These fixed--and yet another couldn't decide whether it was faulty or not--as it kept flashing at me!
I chopped up an LED strip/string I rescued from a similar design LG panel and using double-sided tape, stuck individual LED's in place over the dead LED--after its lens and SM chip had been ground away.
Lot of time and messing round--but sorted the problem.
I had a Technika--With a 40" Samsung panel--Exactly same layout with the LED's but the LED Driver-board is Inside the display-panel!
One LED was O/C, and two were S/C
These fixed--and yet another couldn't decide whether it was faulty or not--as it kept flashing at me!
I chopped up an LED strip/string I rescued from a similar design LG panel and using double-sided tape, stuck individual LED's in place over the dead LED--after its lens and SM chip had been ground away.
Lot of time and messing round--but sorted the problem.
What panel was it LTA400HM23 ?
Please Do Not PM My Page Asking For Help Badcaps Is The Place For Advise, Page Linked For Business Reasons Only. Anyone Doing So Will Be Banned Instantly !
I am still using it on my test bench to dvd and Video sources.
I did not have a chance to try out the resistor in place in this Samsung.
One thing is that the LEDs are driven by constant current source and the Vf on the LEDs will basically stay constant at around 3 ~3.3V, so when using the resistor in place when the current is reduced or increased the Vdrops on the resistor will vary with the amount of current so the total Vf of the string will vary and this may be detected by the protection circuit.
Four (4) IN4007 diodes in series would be enough instead of 5, if you plan to have a 3.5v drop for every busted LED. Four diodes in series would be equal to 4 volts because each diode consumes 1 volt as forward voltage, so, 4 x 1 volt =5 volts. However, to be safer, if you don't know the exact voltage requirement of each LED, I suggest that you use 6 IN4007 LEDs = 6 volts for every busted LED for any brand of TVs. A TV backlight is usually rated at 3-6 volts. The current will have a maximum of 1000mA or 1A for a series of diodes (regulated), since, the maximum rating of IN4007 diode is 1A which is safe enough for the common 200-500mA current supply by the TV LED driver. Hope this helps. Any suggestion?
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