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Anyone know of a compatible replacement that has an adjustable output? The BD35230 has a fixed output of 1.0V and would be acceptable but I cannot find it anywhere. There is also the BD3523 which has an adjustable output but its also nowhere to be found. I could probably source them from alibaba but I dont have that much time and I dont want to make a huge order.
Or perhaps you know how the BD35231 can be modified to output 0.95-1.0V? The board does have empty pads for an adjustable IC but Ive only been able to make the output go up.
What type of caps can I use to replace these Rubycon (K) caps? Can I use a film cap? I cant find any aluminum electrolytic caps that go that low. They are .033 uf and .047 uf
I replaced the backlights in this unit and only half of them are now working. The strips were bad, I could see a few LEDs that blew up. The power supply outputs 190V to the LEDs in the working strip (1-2 and 3-4) and the non working LEDs (5-6 and 7-8) have 120V on + and 65V on -.. Using chassis as ground point. Any suggestions...
Ok, the connection at the backlight is loose. But now I have horizontal and vertical bars all over the screen. If I disconnect the left TCON cable the left side is almost black but I can see horizontal bars. If I disconnect the right the right side is bright white and the left is still black to dark grey with horizontal lines. The right side starts off with black horizontal bars but mostly clers up after about 15 seconds....
Backlights do come one but I see no image on screen. If I remove the LEFT side TCON cable I get an image on the left side of the screen and I can see the menus working (right side appears black/dark grey with a few large lighter grey bars), removing the right side cable and I get a black screen. It appeared there was a damaged IC on the TCON so I replaced it but there was no change. Is the panel bad?...
I can see the image in the background with a flashlight. I have 260V on LED+ and 90V on LED -. The backlights were acting weird with my tester so I pulled the panel and one LED does take about 2 seconds before it lights up but thats it. Is the voltage at the LED connector correct?...
Everyone has to build their own reflow profile based on their geographic location. My desert dwelling profile might now work well for someone in a high humidity location.
I can give you a couple of my lead free profiles. The very first thing you need to do is bake the board to remove any moisture in it. 100C for 24-48 hours is recommended. If you have moisture in the chip or board is will cause delamination. The higher your normal humidity the longer you want to bake the board for.
Is there a schematic anywhere so I can find the value of the capacitor circled blue in the first picture? There are no more shorts in this area after removing it but still no voltage anywhere on the board.
I had to replace the battery since it was leaking acid near the bottom. With the old battery it was drawing 0.03A but with the new one its 0.00A
Everything is back together but the cassette wont play. Pin 5 of IC701 is 5.3V and drops to 0 when pressing the play button. Pin 14 stays at 0.03V when pressing play. None of the buttons work. Is IC701 bad? pin 18 is 5.3V...
Can I replace a ceramic disc cap with a multilayer ceramic cap? I cant even find .047 uf disc caps at digikey, mouser or newark. The places I do find them want anywhere from 25c to $3 each, at any quantity, plus shipping....
What kind of diode is D72 next to the fusible resistor? It looks like D723 but it blew up and all I can read from it is a 1 on one side and what appears to be an E or F on the other..
Someone replaced a 5ohm fusible resistor with a 1w 5ohm resistor to get it working. It worked for an hour before it started smelling like burning plastic.
Is the disc cap in the last pic just a ceramic cap?
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