would it be a good idea to cut a few holes on the backing plate to expose the heat sinks? or maybe wire up a small computer fan on the backside of the tv?
Exposing the heatsinks and cutting a hole without a fan wouldn't do much good since the heat sinks are so small they're bad conductors. Adding a small fan into that hole would be a good supplement to the original cooling though.
From what I've heard these Polaroids run quite hot and this heat kills mediocre and crap caps quickly.
I have a few caps with that TSC name I got them from Jameco way back when before I strictly went with brand name caps.
Garden variety Chinese crap is my guess.
Since you can't move the caps you're going to have to put in some robust caps that can deal with the heat.
Speaking of which looks like there was supposed to be two 10 uf caps and they cut it down to one. Unless that's the one you removed.
I hope that thermal strip missing from the left bottom heatsink is stuck on the TVs metal back plate.
They did this because the heatsinks on the board don't have enough surface area to dissipate the heat. Those thermal strips conduct it to the TVs backplate which has a larger surface area.
A great mod to cut down heat would be to add additional strips to improve heat transfer. The heatsinks on the left have room for 2 more and the large one on the right has room for 3 more.
would it be a good idea to cut a few holes on the backing plate to expose the heat sinks? or maybe wire up a small computer fan on the backside of the tv?
Thanks for all the help everyone, I cant tell you how much I appreciate it. I ended up ordering 10 caps from digikey 10uf 450V. They are made by Nichicon so I hope they are a good quality. If anyone needs caps 10uf 450V 105*C, shoot me an email.
These are the ones I ordered
I just picked up a TDA-03211C today with the same caps blown in the power supply. My power supply looks identical to yours and the caps are HEC 10MFD 450V caps.
I have a few caps with that TSC name I got them from Jameco way back when before I strictly went with brand name caps.
Garden variety Chinese crap is my guess.
Since you can't move the caps you're going to have to put in some robust caps that can deal with the heat.
Speaking of which looks like there was supposed to be two 10 uf caps and they cut it down to one. Unless that's the one you removed.
I hope that thermal strip missing from the left bottom heatsink is stuck on the TVs metal back plate.
They did this because the heatsinks on the board don't have enough surface area to dissipate the heat. Those thermal strips conduct it to the TVs backplate which has a larger surface area.
A great mod to cut down heat would be to add additional strips to improve heat transfer. The heatsinks on the left have room for 2 more and the large one on the right has room for 3 more.
says (if it is reliable by Philctr1982@yahoo.com) that the caps are 10uF 450V. So assuming the repair guy did the job correctly, you may want to try some better brands. I don't recognize the brand in your picture.
Originally posted by therube
I have a Polaroid tv model 3211TLXB. The ones that the guy replaced say 10uf 450V 105'C but I dont think he used the right ones
yes, they were both installed correctly. I checked that first before pulling it off. there was nothing else on that cap, except for the dashes which indicated the negative lead.
Is there any other writing on the other side on the cap? If yes, post pics again.
When you pulled the cap, was the negative side of the cap on the negative side of the board? Is the other replacement cap in the TV installed with the correct polarity? It looks like the negative on the board is pointing down. Do you see the cap stripe on the negative side?
Originally posted by therube
this is all thats left of the cap. this is the one that the repair guy replaced.....so im pretty certain its not the correct rating
Good call, I emailed the guy whose posting looks exactly like my power supply if he can check and let me know what the cap values are.
Thanks guys, keep the suggestions coming....I really appreciate the help so far.
On another note, can you run wires and relocate the caps away from the heat sinks?
by the way, who is elbtax?
Thanks
Rube
I also sent a message to elbtax to see if he can check the caps and let me know what the values are. hopefully its the same power supply board as mine.
I did a search on eBay for the power supply for the model number set that you listed in your first post - 3211TLXB - and it does not look like the power supply in your picture
Maybe elbtax can post what the capacitor values in his power supply are.
There is a huge difference between a 10uf 450 volt capacitor and a 1000uf 10 volt or 16 volt capacitor - I am sure the TV would not have worked for 1 second, let alone 1 month, if the tech put in the wrong capacitor. It definitely sounds like there is another problem, or maybe he just put in garbage capacitors again.
Good call, I emailed the guy whose posting looks exactly like my power supply if he can check and let me know what the cap values are.
Thanks guys, keep the suggestions coming....I really appreciate the help so far.
On another note, can you run wires and relocate the caps away from the heat sinks?
By location those caps are decoupling the inverter power line. 10 volts seems very low. I also see this power supply seems to have caps under the heat sinks - a horrible design. 'Designed to fail' comes to mind.
Looking at the pictures, it appears this power supply does not have a PFC front end.
Agreed before ordering new caps we have to know what the originals were.
I did a search on eBay for the power supply for the model number set that you listed in your first post - 3211TLXB - and it does not look like the power supply in your picture
Maybe elbtax can post what the capacitor values in his power supply are.
There is a huge difference between a 10uf 450 volt capacitor and a 1000uf 10 volt or 16 volt capacitor - I am sure the TV would not have worked for 1 second, let alone 1 month, if the tech put in the wrong capacitor. It definitely sounds like there is another problem, or maybe he just put in garbage capacitors again.
Well, thats my real question. its strange that less than a month after the repair guy replaced the caps, one of them blows again. i dont know that he used the correct ones, is there any way I can find out which rating cap belongs there?
Leave a comment: