Hi. I think I ruined my TV.
So I’ve had a KDL-55EX720 for a long time. We’ve been through a lot. It was out of commission for a few years after developing a white line down the middle of the screen. I fixed it though at the beginning of the pandemic and have been using it as a standing desk computer monitor / second TV.
Well a few weeks ago there was a lightening flash while I was watching TV in the kitchen.
I had three TVs on at the time, all connected (electrically) to the same HDMI output of my cable box.
The kitchen TV recovered just fine after blinking off. My 65” Sony in the living room shut off along with the 55.” The 65” eventually came back, as did my Denon AV receiver (after unplugging and cycling the power).
The older 55 inch started acting funny... I forget the exact details, but it eventually would shut down and flash red 7 times.
I found an abridged service manual and determined that the 7 flashes is for a temperature sensor.
The flow chart said to replace the B board. I was pretty annoyed at this, since the TV would work fine but shut down after I think 30 seconds. Obviously, the TV was not too hot. Oh, I tried leaving it unglued for 10 hours/ a few days and I tried a factory reset (didn’t work).
So I found a B board on eBay. The listing was for a 1-884-078-22, but they sent me a 1-884-078-21.
So I ordered another board. This time I got a 1-884-078-22, but the connector for the LVDS cable was different as well as a power supply connector (CN6002) and the speaker connector.
My first instinct was to have nothing to do with this board, even though it was identical in every other visible way. Well I decided not to live in fear and so I saw that if I trimmed two tiny square “ears” on both sides of the LVDS cable end, it would fit. Similarly I modified the power supply connector to fit and planned on soldering the 5 wires and calling it a day. I left the audio plug disconnected for the initial test.
When I turned on the set the entire screen turned white before shutting down and flashing red and orange lights simultaneously. This wasn’t very assuring. Because of the uncertainty of the rigged power connector, I tried a few times, when I probably should have immediately stopped.
I checked continuity on every connection of that connector (CN6002).
I know you’re probably thinking the LVDS cable was not right, but since it’s taped down and so perfectly aligned and rigid, I’m confident that it was aligned properly to the board which gets screwed in place exactly. Also I was extremely careful and used magnifying glasses etc.
I eventually decided to go back and see if my original board was still working. Nope.
Now with my old “good” board, standby is ok, but after hitting the power button I get an immediate shutdown and a 5x red LED flash sequence. (goes without saying that there’s no white screen anymore)
I now have the schematic for the KDL-60EX720.
I thought this schematic would be identical to my 55EX720, but for some reason on the 65EX schematic, it shows CN6001 to be a 10 pin with all 10 pins used and pin 1 12V. On my 55EX, that plug has no wire at pin 1. But the 12V is present, just at pin 2 though. All 3 of the micro fuses are ok.
Well I think the eBay board I got was shot and took out maybe my TCON board.
Thoughts?
Oh, now that I have the proper service manual (at least for the 65EX) I can see that there is a surface mount chip that I could have tried to replace or bypass for the original temp sense issue.
Too late now.
So I’ve had a KDL-55EX720 for a long time. We’ve been through a lot. It was out of commission for a few years after developing a white line down the middle of the screen. I fixed it though at the beginning of the pandemic and have been using it as a standing desk computer monitor / second TV.
Well a few weeks ago there was a lightening flash while I was watching TV in the kitchen.
I had three TVs on at the time, all connected (electrically) to the same HDMI output of my cable box.
The kitchen TV recovered just fine after blinking off. My 65” Sony in the living room shut off along with the 55.” The 65” eventually came back, as did my Denon AV receiver (after unplugging and cycling the power).
The older 55 inch started acting funny... I forget the exact details, but it eventually would shut down and flash red 7 times.
I found an abridged service manual and determined that the 7 flashes is for a temperature sensor.
The flow chart said to replace the B board. I was pretty annoyed at this, since the TV would work fine but shut down after I think 30 seconds. Obviously, the TV was not too hot. Oh, I tried leaving it unglued for 10 hours/ a few days and I tried a factory reset (didn’t work).
So I found a B board on eBay. The listing was for a 1-884-078-22, but they sent me a 1-884-078-21.
So I ordered another board. This time I got a 1-884-078-22, but the connector for the LVDS cable was different as well as a power supply connector (CN6002) and the speaker connector.
My first instinct was to have nothing to do with this board, even though it was identical in every other visible way. Well I decided not to live in fear and so I saw that if I trimmed two tiny square “ears” on both sides of the LVDS cable end, it would fit. Similarly I modified the power supply connector to fit and planned on soldering the 5 wires and calling it a day. I left the audio plug disconnected for the initial test.
When I turned on the set the entire screen turned white before shutting down and flashing red and orange lights simultaneously. This wasn’t very assuring. Because of the uncertainty of the rigged power connector, I tried a few times, when I probably should have immediately stopped.
I checked continuity on every connection of that connector (CN6002).
I know you’re probably thinking the LVDS cable was not right, but since it’s taped down and so perfectly aligned and rigid, I’m confident that it was aligned properly to the board which gets screwed in place exactly. Also I was extremely careful and used magnifying glasses etc.
I eventually decided to go back and see if my original board was still working. Nope.
Now with my old “good” board, standby is ok, but after hitting the power button I get an immediate shutdown and a 5x red LED flash sequence. (goes without saying that there’s no white screen anymore)
I now have the schematic for the KDL-60EX720.
I thought this schematic would be identical to my 55EX720, but for some reason on the 65EX schematic, it shows CN6001 to be a 10 pin with all 10 pins used and pin 1 12V. On my 55EX, that plug has no wire at pin 1. But the 12V is present, just at pin 2 though. All 3 of the micro fuses are ok.
Well I think the eBay board I got was shot and took out maybe my TCON board.
Thoughts?
Oh, now that I have the proper service manual (at least for the 65EX) I can see that there is a surface mount chip that I could have tried to replace or bypass for the original temp sense issue.
Too late now.
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