I'm struggling to grasp where the wires come from?
which wire ? the photo i added to you.. its any table lamp with filament bulb will have only 2 wire only which take AC from wall socket... this 2 wire one you connected with the wirw which you need to slide it out from the BL socket and the next of the bulb go to the socket at pin3
sockets on power boards PIn3 -------- table lamp ------- the wire go to backlight
resistor need high watt ,1K 10 watt and up, bulb are better. as it can handle all kind of currents / watt with out any effect on the other parts in circuit
i am afraid you have error at volts reading.. to confirm i want you do the bulb test to the other lines one by one and notice any change.. pin 2 / 6 / 7
All I noticed is that the splash screen wasn't even coming on, instead the screen just flashed light....
It was possible that the wire I was putting down the Pin 3 socket wasn't touching the Pin on the Board properly, so I even tried holding it onto the pin externally to the socket also.... I took my time with those measurements this time, triple checked the readings very carefully etc
All I noticed is that the splash screen wasn't even coming on, instead the screen just flashed light....
It was possible that the wire I was putting down the Pin 3 socket wasn't touching the Pin on the Board properly, so I even tried holding it onto the pin externally to the socket also.... I took my time with those measurements this time, triple checked the readings very carefully etc
if you did all correct and splash screen wasn't coming on, mean this line healthy.. so do the test to others 2 6 7
Does bulb size matter at all?
It is a slightly smaller than standard household bulb....
What is the resistance of that incandescent lamp? Cold resistance of incandescent lamp will be really low Ohm (resistance will go up when lamp filament is heated up) which will overload the LED power supply.
Check the resistance of the lamp with your Ohm meter.
40W 240VAC = hot resistance of about 1430 Ohms, so cold resistance will be about 143 Ohms or less.
So are you suggesting this is too low to achieve the objective?
I could leave the bulb switched on somewhere for a while, then quickly transfer it to the lamp & test while still warm heheh.... I guess you don't mean that kind of hot; as in hot = plugged into AC Mains, & cold = not?
bulb test method applied to LED back light which controlled with external inverter which it had 24V feed from power boards and it had nothings to do with heat. and will never overload or damage any parts at inverter neither power boards.
the questions if you test this on all lines 2/3/6/7 and didn't help the LED remain on. then you have shorted / exploded / cutoff LED Line. no way unless take the screen apart. end of subject from my side.
Comment