On the diagram you need to see if you have continuity between L1 at socket and pin 3 of BD901. Then check 2n of your socket to pin 2 of BD901 for continuity
I assume no responsibility for any stupid suggestions I might post.
To clarify this fuse mess, a fuse is essentially just a wire, it should have extremely low resistance and voltage drop across it.
If your multimeter in resistance/continuity/diode mode reads OL with the probes on either side, that means it is blown. Otherwise it is good.
"The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves and wiser people are so full of doubts." -Bertand Russell
Thanks. My fuse is good. However, I do not get 120acv across pin 2 and 3 of the bridge rectifier. According to schematic I should. I do have continuity between the pins and there corresponding place on socket. This makes no sense to me. I am also getting about 3.6 dcv at the big black cap. I do not think this is correct but I'm not sure. What should this voltage be? Please advise. Thanks for all of your help.
Thanks. My fuse is good. However, I do not get 120acv across pin 2 and 3 of the bridge rectifier. According to schematic I should. I do have continuity between the pins and there corresponding place on socket. This makes no sense to me. I am also getting about 3.6 dcv at the big black cap. I do not think this is correct but I'm not sure. What should this voltage be? Please advise. Thanks for all of your help.
So what resistance do you have between the AC male plugs and the two middle pins of the bridge rectifier in Ohm?
When you use the word continuity, if it has 1000 Ohms reading you can still say that it has continuity so it does not really mean much to say it has continuity, it is the actual resistance number that we need to see and make sure to report if the reading is in OHM, K OHM, or M OHM.
When the DATA does not make Logical sense, it needs to be verify again, wrong DATA = Wrong troubleshooting.
So what resistance do you have between the AC male plugs and the two middle pins of the bridge rectifier in Ohm?
When you use the word continuity, if it has 1000 Ohms reading you can still say that it has continuity so it does not really mean much to say it has continuity, it is the actual resistance number that we need to see and make sure to report if the reading is in OHM, K OHM, or M OHM.
When the DATA does not make Logical sense, it needs to be verify again, wrong DATA = Wrong troubleshooting.
I have seen this in a few threads lately here the wrong data provided is making us go around in circles trying too fault find, its always best to have a new meter battery and make sure multi meter is reading ok on dc volts too in my opion as if meters not been used in a while who knows what may of happened to it.
Yep, and I am getting tire of them too.
For example: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=60973
At least the guy apologized, I was ready to give up helping.
Same for some people that just will not follow the instructions.
Yep, and I am getting tire of them too.
For example: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=60973
At least the guy apologized, I was ready to give up helping.
Same for some people that just will not follow the instructions.
Another thing is people not doing there own research either using the search function a lot of the links i post are of this site or just basic google/youtube searches some faults yes will always be hard to locate and fix but thats how we all learn by the information we all post etc and other members experience like yourself in being able too understand the schematics and circuits etc as that does take a long time to learn so your input down to componet level testing will always be apprecitated.
Georgia088 this is not aimed at you or anyone else its just a general forum issue we are seeing.
Thanks. My fuse is good. However, I do not get 120acv across pin 2 and 3 of the bridge rectifier. According to schematic I should. I do have continuity between the pins and there corresponding place on socket. This makes no sense to me. I am also getting about 3.6 dcv at the big black cap. I do not think this is correct but I'm not sure. What should this voltage be? Please advise. Thanks for all of your help.
You have an open circuit between the a/c plug and the bridge.
You need a/c into the bridge to get DC out. whats on the cap could just be just left over voltage from when the cap was charged when it was working or you could have a small amount of a/c leaking through the circuit to get a small voltage at the cap.
Locate C908 or VAR901 and measure the A/C voltage accross it. Is there 120 volts there? if the answer is yes then check for a/c accross C909. Is there a/c accross it? yes or no
I do apologize for my ignorance and really appreciate the help. I will try and be as thorough with the info as I can from now on.
On the 2k setting of multimeter it shows .004 resistance from 2n on socket male pin to 3rd pin of rectifier. The l1 to second pin shows .000.
I hope this helps.
Thanks again!!
If the DATAS are correct as shown then I see no reason for not having 120VAC between the two inner pins of the bridge rectifier, there must be errors some where.
How about using the meter in 200 OHM scale?
Notes: when looking for very low resistance, the meter should be set to the LOWEST scale as possible to get good resolution readings.
Ok. I will def. check that. I am not at tv right now. Thanks!
Now I have a stupid amateur question: please forgive me.
Can I use a "jumper wire" (for lack of better word) to provide the bridge at pin 3 with the ground it needs to have 120 acv going in in order to test tv and/or other boards in the tv?
If the DATAS are correct as shown then I see no reason for not having 120VAC between the two inner pins of the bridge rectifier, there must be errors some where.
How about using the meter in 200 OHM scale?
Notes: when looking for very low resistance, the meter should be set to the LOWEST scale as possible to get good resolution readings.[/QUOTE]
I checked on 200 scale and it shows .000 to both pins from socket.
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